Mk3iain

Surely it's the serial number of the engine, stops the plate being put on the wrong one, for whatever reason...

The air pressure shows on all gauges to be in the correct range and the unloader valve seems to be operate correctly, but during test pressure was getting down to 80-90 psi. I tried to maintain it as high as possible but could not always do that. Would it be worth taking the front drums off and de-gazing them with a bit of sandpaper or something?

That's just daft to use such special light in a military truck, and very frustrating for you. Just so happens the ATF I am visiting is a Renault dealer. I have to say that the process of applying for the first test with VTG1 and dealing with DVSA has been fairly straight forward. They are helpful and do understand what these vehicles are. The one problem I have found so far is that the system of applying makes you pay a test fee direct to DVSA and then you are left with the lane fee charge at the ATF. Unfortunately the ATF will also want to charge the test fee as this is how it is done on a day to day basis. Something they need to look at. I've had a very frustrating time with this but we are passed that now. I hope... I was supprised when the examiner took out the emissions tester but he was more supprised at the result. Tested as cat B pre 2008, (whatever that means) the first pass limit is 1.50, the Milly averaged .35 with zero drift. Not sure what is being measured exactly but the result was bloody good, not bad for an old AEC! Iain

No slack adjusters, the front uses a set of holes on a quadrant to take up wear adjustment. The front ones are on the second hole and have the correct amount of play and have 3 or 4 more holes to go to compensate for wear. On driving home I took the opportunity to do some hard breaking and managed to lock up rear wheels once. It seemed to stop quite well, considering the weight and age.

Sadly failed it's test. But not terribly; 1. Service brake failed due to lack of stopping power. 2. Headlights have European lenses. 3. a couple of bolts need tightening. last two are a quick fix. The service brakes are adjusted correctly, there are no leaks and the liners are good as new(last time I looked). The examiner recommended using abrasive on the front drums in case they were glazed. It should only take improvement of the front brakes to pass. I have not used the truck for a while and don't overwork the breaks when I drive. Could it be lack of use? Any suggestions! All help appreciated Iain

Too right, it's a huge relief! Should go a bit faster, maybe🙂

Here are some pics of the actuating piston in the stuck position with a parts drawing of the dif assembly. After some cleaning with an abrasive pad and oil it started to loosen up and is now working as it should. Phew!

Only the 6x6 has the wider track the 4x4 is standard LR (ish). That does not look like the axle on mine though. Iain

Success, it was a stuck actuator same as before. It must be moisture and crud coming through the air system but it was actually around 10 years since I last cleaned it of crud, so not so bad. I have been making a habit of actuating the dif lock and front axle now and again and listing for the clunk, but I have missed out checking for the clunk lately. That's cost me an extra £179. Ill put some pics up in a bit, cup of tea required. Iain

Thanks for your continued help! I have until next Thursday (5th) so will look into it and fix if I can, luckily I still have rolling spares outside if needs be. I did have a sticky actuator a few years back and freed it off etc but that's as far as I have been. Hopefully that's all that's wrong this time but I'll get the book out and give it a good going over and learn some more no doubt. I think taking some oil from the axle drain for a look just in case. S It was lovely drive though, 18-20deg and lovely sunshine, just like a summers day, that's part of the joy of having these things. I really enjoyed that part of it so not a complete (expensive) loss. cheers Iain

Well it didn't go quite to plan. The test was aborted as the inter axle dif lock appeared to be stuck on. The dif lock indicator which shows pressure in the actuating line was off but during roller test the next axle was trying to drive when one wheel was moved. The test machine is automatic and stopped itself each time. All we could think to do was tried at the time to release it but we ran out of time and now I have to fix it and return next week for a full test at the full rate, £170. Any ideas, could this have been normal? Ill get the book out and have a read but there looks to be an access plate on the end of the dif lock. So thats where I will start. Suppose. Iain

Interesting company! Thanks Rob

Let's hope they still have one or can tell me how to fix it, I had hoped it would be a simple seal change :-/ Did you open up the one you removed? Iain

I have an oil leak from the input seal on the steering box, having noticed oil coming out the top of the steering column. The parts book only shows the box as a unit and does not show any internal detail or parts. I have sent an email to Adan Hydraulics as they are shown as manufacturer, but no reply yet. It's been nearly 50 years since they made it. Has anyone dealt with these or got any information, I am not sure if it can be repaired? All help appreciated. Many thanks Iain

Thank you very much, I just don't want to take unnecessary risks. If there is a horrible noise during the test it would be very bad indeed..... Iain

I'm getting myself and the Milly ready for Wednesday's test and am unsure about brake testing on a rolling road. Is it safe or advisable to allow this test or should I insist on a test with a meter? I am thinking of the rear bogie drive set up, the front axle should be OK as I won't be selecting 6wd. I'm also checking all that I can think of including checking for air leaks, not easy with tinnitus...... Its around 20 miles to the test station so I don't want to be going back if I can help it. Many thanks Iain

Unless this is the idea 🙂

Hi Richard I suppose it would depend on if the tow was to get a casualty to a place of safety or regularly move it around for convenience. The biggest problem if it is a regular tow would be coupled brakes, its too big for over-run brakes so it would have to be adapted or fitted with a braking system. The documents would be "construction and use" maybe? There are far more knowledgeable folk on this forum that could advise on what is required and where to get the info. Hope this has not put the brakes on your enterprise.....;-) Iain PS Sorry for going off subject somewhat. Your question was really about how to fix an A bar to a Landy... Surely there is a Land Rover person who can help!

Worth having a search of previous threads as this subject has been discussed in depth before. If I remember correctly the towed vehicle is classed as a trailer and must have all lights and coupled brakes as well as being within the weight limit for the towing vehicle of course. Iain

I am getting around to selling off my Militants and associated spares and here is my spare/donor truck. She is rusty on the exterior tinwork and cab but with good engine, gearboxes, axles etc and good tyres all round. It did run when I got it but I've robbed fuel pipes etc. Would take a brave soul to restore unless you re-cab it but makes a good source for spares to keep another on the road. I has given me peace of mind, "just in case". Offers welcome! Over 10 years of accumulated spares including engines to be sold off. Too much to list but includes electrical, air and mechanical parts.... Iain

I have now applied using the VTG1 and have booked into the nearest approved test centre at Peterhead. It cost £113 to the DVSA and then the test centre charged an extra £179! I am assured that I will be reimbursed the £113 from DVSA as the test centre were double charging to be sure they got paid.... So far other than the double charging it has been quite painless, I filled in the form as much as I could and sent copies of the manual data pages. One question came up in conversation with the test station as they felt purpose built recovery vehicles were still exempt and it was only adapted commercial chassis that lost exemption. This is not true. In conversation with the tech department at DVSA only pre 1960 and vehicles in STG3 ( multi axel heavy recovery) are exempt test. All other post 1960 trucks must now be tested. They are aware that false declarations are being made and accepted. Anyway the Milly is booked in for the 27th of this month and then it will be for sale. I will be sad to see it go but I've had her over 10 years and already have a replacement ( the Perentie). If interested get in touch. Iain

Thank you! Visually it seems very much influenced by the EB if not based on it. I am sure there was a proposal to upgrade a "Mk3" EB with an auto box and other improvements but they lost out on the replacement. Would be interesting to learn more and you are right to promote an interesting subject. Iain

Looks suspiciously like an Eager Beaver in there! Was that fitted with an auto or manual box? Iain

Not quite as involved as the Cuthbertson idea 🙂 There are other products like this around for various vehicles such as Mattracks etc but I suppose the USP for these are their ease of use and quick fit. Looking at the requirements I cant see many Defenders having the power or LSD, Range Rover maybe, but would you... Iain

Open to sensible offers before returning to the back of the shed. Iain