Gordon_M

Indeed, though the term "over restored" springs to mind. It may be a tough decision to do it right, for a given value of "right" but it isn't actually that difficult to perform once the decision is taken. I recall a nicely restored WC 42 panel van finished in desert stone / black and portraying the run up Italy, where a green rectangle was left on the left rear door to show an insignia, faithfully reproducing the original paintwork where the whole panel van had been green, and then the whole body overpainted stone and black, except for the rectangle with the insignia.

Not really Wally and it does look good. I suppose the point would remain that even if it were to be sprayed it is unlikely they would have masked it off to get sharp edges - not if they had another five hundred trucks to paint. If I had to go positive, does anyone have any contemporary images of that paint scheme, so we can assess how sharp ( or approximate ) the edges were? I've not seen very many original images.

It looks too nice. Wouldn't the original process be to paint the whole truck in stone, and then hand paint the contrast colours over the top by brush? The neat edges and corners, and almost perfectly straight lines, would surely look strange to someone who painted that scheme originally, by hand.

Change all the hoses -if one has gone, the others are on the way.

Slide hammer, bearing and seal pullers - surely part of the original equipment.

Those cabs were always available as kits Pete, since the start of Mound Road production for the 39 series. You could get a chassis with cowl, windscreen cowl, or cab as I remember, but they would primarily be intended for coach builders to build them up, rather than as a kit for assembly of a cab overseas. I'd guess the cab rear, floor, and windscreen pillar joints were engineered for this series of trucks.

Interesting cab construction, if a lot of work to pull down and put back after all these years. The US version of the cab is one welded assembly, which means it maintains a lot of structural strength and you can hack out and replace bits with wondering if it will still fit. I learned long ago never to try and remove the hinge pins while the doors are still on the truck. Far better to remove the door by unbolting both hinges, then tackle the hinge pins on a bench if you really have to.

Those firewall mounted fuel filters are great, but they are pushing eighty years old. Before you pull it off and bench-strip it, buy another unit, or two. It's really common to break something when stripping them.

The on / off and hitting a wall are absolutely typical of an obstructed, or partially obstructed, fuel line, hose, filter, or tank pickup. People fit NOS hoses, in particular, and ethanol goes right through them leading to internal collapse and dissolved hose being washed downstream and causing further havoc there.

I used surplussed tyres from 101's on my WW2 WC Dodges, the 5 degree angle on the bead did not seem to make a difference. It must be possible to swap them the other way, but I recognise tyres for Dodges may be scarce where you are too. The tread pattern was the ordinary bar grip, not anything modern or complicated.

Fuel hose or in-tank pickup could be a factor. Even if the hoses were 'new' ethanol may've delaminated them.

Nothing like a C60 from this angle. There were a whole bunch of Dodge, Chev, Ford, and other trucks supplied as "chassis and windscreen cowl" for local assembly and bodywork in far-flung places, and the closer one looks something like that. Note that they are not identical. The one closest to the camera started as "chassis and windscreen cowl" whereas the far one was just "chassis / cowl" and the screen has been made locally. Obviously both were processed the same given the side wood, but they started differently. I don't recognise the firewall so probably not Dodge, could well be Canadian Chev or Ford, but not a CMP variant like the C60, could be British too, of course. Anyone recognise the firewall style?

Hah, if you had mentioned that first we would have known, and you can forget the Detroit. Mack M123 with a LeRoi motor: M123 LeRoi on You Tube. Thirty years ago I was parked by the side of the A13 Autostrada at Rovigo, just south of Venice, when I heard the loudest howling sound in the distance, every bit as distinctive as a Merlin. After about seven minutes one of these drove past, presumably from the US Air Base at Aviano. It was travelling about 40MPH, must have been near maximum, so it must have been nearly four miles away when I first heard it. Once heard, never forgotten.

Keep it safe somewhere John, you never know ...

Well that's bad luck and good luck, isn't it? Bad luck it didn't work first time, and good luck that nothing got ruined. I'm not seeing anything on there that won't respond to a re-size, clean, and polish, but maybe some of this rings might not be safe to re-use?

I think Richard has it. Everything else could have been overcome, but that locking up is just too risky.

If it will idle for a couple of hours, but sticks almost right away when you need power, then it is probably piston expansion. They will be keeping cool enough while idling but expanding past some critical limit when used hard. It might run in if you idle it for hours and hours and hours, but if you push it and they expand too much you would be risking the cylinder barrels. How long would it take to pull the barrels and inspect? It might just be the one cylinder you could dress down right away. It does look much better than post #1 though. 8-)

Plain carbon steel much less of an issue Pete. Getting nice shiny ones the right size and shape for the civilian fronts is no fun.

With engine numbers you get what you get Pete. As a further wrinkle it is relatively common to find a military or civilian truck engine rebuilt as an Industrial engine, or vice versa. I have a T116 stamped one ton engine in the garage which has a Chrysler Industrial plate on the side. If it is a period long block engine, expect it to be the standard 236.6 cu in ( The Canadians were much less prone to mucking about with engine capacities than their US cousins ). The casting number could be interpreted but don't have that info. Look on the side of the block under the distributor for a date. Early engines had month/day/year, later engines just had month/day, but worth a check. It is impossible to get direct replacements for those trim bolts. You can get 1/8" stainless coach bolts but the head is more domed. On plain painted steel trim you probably want plain carbon steel coach bolts, 1/8" I think, but you may want to reduce the 'dome' a bit.

Four blade would be right for that Pete, you shouldn't need a six blade unless the radiator is partially blocked. Be careful taking the 'chrome' trim off the radiator shell. It is fitted with a bunch of non-standard threads and coach bolt type fasteners. Difficult to get it off and on again. It will probably be mild steel painted but it did vary with the years.

They taught me about it in college ( Chesterfield ) though that might be giving my age away. Malleable Iron is Spheroidal Graphitic, or SG Iron. The graphite is heat-treated into nodules rather than flakes, and that moves the physical properties of the material closer to a mild steel - when stressed it will deform to a degree before it will fracture. It was certainly in existence long before WW1, but in those days it has the added production cost of extensive heat-treatment, so wrought iron or an early version of what we now call mild steel would be much more likely as much cheaper and faster.

My best guess on the original is that it is, literally, wrought iron. Not the more common mild steel that we call wrought iron these days. That's why you were able to straighten it.

I hope all is well with you too Matt. It's amazing how these things go in circles. 8-)

Morning Matt, that's been a while. Is this the truck that came down from Scotland or not? I know the Scottish one went to Newcastle / Durham area but lost track of it after that.

The tool forum on G503 might identify it. The lack of chrome suggests WW2, but I'm sure I can see hex drive in there as well as square drive, and that pretty much died out by then. There's a couple of special twiddly bits in there, so it may well be a specific tool kit for something, but no idea what. Britool were one of the few UK manufacturers to make 9/32" square drive stuff, presumably on contract for the RAF ( as the USAAC and USAAF used a lot of 9/32" drive stuff on aircraft )