Gordon_M

I'm sure we have seen that before, maybe a year ago, and the price was similarly - interesting then. It'll be two hundred years old before they find a buyer at that price.

Salt water would go everywhere - pressure washing would get rid of a lot of it. I did hear that people who have to deal with this regularly have been known to recover the vehicle from salt water, and then flood it again in fresh water, then start the drying out process. It would be essential to clean out every void, seal, and cavity. When I got my DUKW the axle hubs, pillow block and so on were packed with grease just to stop more than trace amounts of water getting in

Dodges take a bit of killing. I recall one Command Car chassis I saw that was down to cardboard-thin after being used on a beach for decades, but one immersion in salt water shouldn't kill it. Really good pressure wash, hubs off, diffs out, drain and flush transmission and transfer case, wash and flush brake lines and components. You would probably pull the sump and really clean out the engine internally. Distributor, generator, and starter into a bucket of paraffin at least, if not a full strip and clean. Regulator box should clean up OK, I can really only think of instruments as probably cheaper to replace than rebuild.

SIGH At some point, if not already, the owner of that truck is going to be made aware of this thread and will read through it - if they have not already done so. 😔 I would suggest kindness in the comments, please. If the owner is reading this, feel free to chip in with some comments. I'm assuming the truck was recovered with some expense and embarrassment, but nobody died - it is a Dodge after all. Gordon

If that was a brand new Range Rover it would be a total loss. Being a Dodge, pull it out, pressure wash it, change the fluids, and go again. Dodges were actually waded at that depth with a waterproofing kit.

I'd be happy to call them Ford 1.5 ton 4 x2 with Montpelier bodies. Note that the original image, and the high level image in the DoR, both show the ambulance-style ventilator bolted to the rear side of the body - presumably one on each side. The reason that the bodies are contractor-built is worth repeating; the major US manufacturers did not have their own COE cabs before about 1940. 1940-onwards Dodge and Ford ( presumably others too ... ) had realised how big the market for COEs was and engineered their own cabs. I have always assumed that the contractors like Montpelier and Metropolitan not only built the bodies but had to rework steering and controls to suit too, which wouldn't have been that easy. I remember the early GMC searchlight 6x6 trucks had completely different manifold and carburettor setups, for example.

Great, and that means I guessed rightly that Peerless Trading had their sticky paws in this too, as they surely would not have been a British thread originally. 😁

I hereby name this Tappet thread BO, British Obscure, as suggested by Doug. 😏

Well I'm out of immediate ideas for this. You have looked at American threads, but you can match neither the pitch nor the diameter. You have looked at Metric threads, and can match the diameter and approximate the pitch ( binding after 3/8" ) I can only suspect the hidden hands of Peerless Trading here, like the water pump. Is it some antique British thread, like a BA variation or something for Wheeltappers & Shunters? ( gives age away )

Ta. It does explain why there were so many threads used on our WW2 trucks that are non-standard today too. I can't find anything US with a .3032" thread OD though.

Apologies in advance for the pickiness, but they would just be National Extra Fine as the "Unified" didn't get added till nearly 1950.

I'm sure you will get a pile of replies, with dates, but as I understand it, right at the start of the war, British vehicles had what was effectively an ordinary civilian registration, and some had army registrations as well. Shortly after that they dropped the civilian reg and just used the army one, but note that the 2/2/2 system is MUCH later, although some vehicles that stayed in service, like DUKWs, had a USA number first, then a wartime British army registration, then got renumbered in the 2/2/2 system when that was introduced.

I'm not a hose expert ( Hoseman, where are you ? ) but there's only a couple of possibilities. Either you have too big a size difference between the OD of your connection and the ID of the hose, or your hose is too hard / rigid. I suppose it could be a combination of both. A thinner, softer hose would be the easiest fix. After all, I expect the pressure in the system to be just the hydrostatic head and a couple of PSI. I'd guess you are using industrial strength hose that would pressure test to hundreds of PSI and is probably twice as thick as it needs to be. Ask everybody else with similar vehicles what they are using?

Leaking radiator. hose connection, or over-filled?

That's a hundred years of mouse right there, but they made trucks to last in those days. Got an overall image of it please, just to see progress?

Put a socket on the 3/4 drive, and put it on a reluctant wheel nut. Put a brace bar in the bit that sticks out the side, so it locks against the next wheel stud, or the ground. Put a ratchet drive or a breaker bar in the half inch drive, and wind it. Hey Presto, the multiplied torque output will easily break the reluctant wheel stud.

He has had the distributor out and put it back without doing a by-the-book line up.

Thank you. I had found the top four but missed the last one, which looks promising. Anything you can find out I'd be much obliged. Gordon

I've recently been made aware of a relative, William McCracken, described as a Sapper, who died sometime between mid 1916 and the end of WW1. He was likely to have been serving in a Scottish regiment as he came from the Glasgow area. How / where can I find out more without signing up to expensive sites please?

Technically I believe this started as a pre-WW2 Warner electric brake coupler socket, but it was universally used on US vehicles as a standard trailer socket from WW2 though to Korea

I'll have a stab at that, at least as it was explained to me. The front axle and front suspension on a Major are all bolted together, and run back to a pivot point on the cast iron sump. If you are bowling along in the woods one day, and hit something really hard with one front wheel, then the front suspension breaks and takes the sump with it, so you go from running machine to scrap in a couple of seconds. Repair consist of a new sump and front suspension parts, and if the disaster happened far from home, and the tractor was tired anyway, you just walk ( limp?) away.

You should have had a reply direct from Hanno at MLU Mike, let me know if you didn't get it. ( I did e-mail you direct but your e-mail bounced me ) Gordon

Welcome. I'd be looking here, on G503, and on Maple Leaf Up http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/

Haven't played that since the last time I walked through Westminster. 8-) Disk and spoked wheel variants?

Don't think we didn't notice the extra set of axles - what's the story with them? 🤔