fv1609

As well as uploading, I find I can still download my images. All of these would be somewhere here on a PC, laptop, old hard drive, stick, disc etc but sometimes I am unable to find the original so I download it from photobucket. When you look for your downloaded image bear in mind the date of the image is the date it was originally uploaded. I find I have 3,673 images being hosted, so it would take a while, in fact it would gobble up my data allowance as I have no broadband, just a phone link. If they get round blocking my library, I expect they will have already been trousered up by image searching bots, which I imagine now are going to be rather short of new images to re-host.

It is curious that there is no mention of the state of ransom when I log in & look in my library, just looks like it always did. A strange & aggressive marketing strategy indeed, it even made me wonder if it was one of those worldwide hacks of late. One forum I was looking at someone has actually paid up, but the images remain blocked. Makes you wonder.

I still use Phtobucket & have no problems. They are always trying to get you to upgrade, but as I have only used 25% of my allocation I can see no need & I don't want fancy editing facilities etc. This is one of the first pictures I put up & it is still there. PS Just looked looked on preview & I see what you mean. I have just looked in my library & it is there but linking it gives the result above :-(

Lewis will do on return, I am away at Bovington Tankfest at the moment.

Yes I would check the resistance of the field winding before you reassemble the brushes, to do this put the ends of your resistance tester across the slip rings (Item 24 on pages 20/21) & should be about 15 ohms I think. These are the two rings next to each other that each brush rubs against. When you have reassembled the brushes & springs make sure the brushes do exert pressure on the rings & are free to move against the spring tension. Also make sure the brushes are aligned correctly & that a brush can only contact its own slip ring without touching the other ring. Make sure that the edges of the slip rings are clean & free of conducting dust from the wear of the old brushes. Then check that the U-V resistance is correct on all rotations of the shaft, then replace the end cover.

Jimmy if you have no reading at U-V directly on the generator then you have no option but to dismantle the brush assembly. Rotate the shaft & check again if there is a reading but with a broken spring it is unlikely.

I found I had got this picture which might help. I am not sure if I took it or whether it was sent to me, but I certainly labelled it. If it is someone else's picture I hope they won't mind as it is now someone else's turn to be helped (I hope). Jimmy don't worry about the feed holes to the shunt box, there was vast variation as to what went through a particular hole on the various configurations installed.

Have you changed the fuse? It looks different & the retaining screws are in a different position. The fuse is just in the radio battery circuit.

Ah well you've got something to go on now.

It's a bit too zoomed in to see what else is going on in the wiring on the right. The green box has the radio batteries shunt & there should be a single wire from each end of the shunt, but on the left you have two. I assume the person who thought it was a good idea to have both ammeters in parallel with each other, thought they might as well share a common terminal. But anyway that will not have any effect on the ability of the generator to charge. You seem to have a thick blue Unipren cable on the top of the vehicle shunt that comes from the generator panel & a similar one underneath going to the vehicle batteries, this is correct. The brown-white wire should be the supply to the vehicle & the thinner brown-yellow a through connection for the charge warning light. I suppose my diagram should have included a representation of the brown-white wire, but I was trying not to have too many wires as it was really to just illustrate the charging arrangement.

Yes this one Chris:

The vehicle shunt has one side connected to the vehicle batteries +ve (& ammeter), the other side of the shunt goes to the ammeter & a brown with white trace to a terminal post. This is the main battery feed (other than starter of course) & provides via brown fused services on the 4-way fuse panel. It also feeds the ignition switch that, when switched on, emerges as white to the fuse panel the via fuses to green for instruments etc. The white (ie unfused) supplies the feed to the shunt box & thence the coil. So you need to follow this added red wire & see where it goes (Red wires that should be there are to do with side lights) Can you send a picture of the shunt box, it may be that this red wire is simply a replacement for a damaged brown-white wire & confusing the issue when the problem lies in the failure to tickle the field coil or even energise it adequately once running.

Jimmy you are doing well, keeping faith & being sensible. Ah so Mr Bodger has been at work, that can really mess up logical testing. I'm afraid even some "automotive electricians", who are no doubt highly skilled with computerised test modules & modern procedures, have difficulty grasping the military 90A system. Yes as you realise connecting the ammeters in parallel across the same shunt is pointless. Curious this wire on the shunt that determines if you have ignition. By that do you mean you have no charge light or that the ignition system doesn't work? Irrespective of the behaviour of the charge warning light the ignition system should still work. The warning light has two functions. With the ignition turned on it supplies a voltage through a devious route through the voltage regulator to supply the field winding to "tickle" it & provide some initial magnetism before the generator is running & can do this itself. Once the generator is providing output the "earthy" end of the bulb is no longer earthy & has a voltage of 24v or so thus matching the voltage of the batteries that are energising the coil. As per the diagram on page 66. To simplify it I have omitted the filter box & ballast resistor as that has a whole article to itself! Well done on the new harness. The list price is £600+ but bear in mind there are different lengths, but even if it is short you can move the gen panel closer for testing. I would check the harness not just for the continuity of individual wires but to make sure there is no inter-leakage between them or the metal sheath. Also check the U-V voltage on the gen panel to verify the field winding is indeed being "tickled".

Well at least your thread has led into all sorts of interesting diversions! But got to be better than posting & question that nobody wants to answer

Not relevant to this thread, but see what he says about IRR NATO Green paint :whistle:

No you are not, I can quite understand. This is why I no longer post high res pictures. I don't mind people sharing & enjoying but invariable once it has been trousered up by bots or individuals reposting then the source is rarely acknowledged. Often the reposter is thanked for such an interesting picture! But it doesn't stop there, I have had images lifted from my copyrighted pdfs. Even large sections of articles lifted & "copyrighted" by someone else! There is also a site selling my articles (without my permission) although I should be grateful that they are intact & still marked as my copyright, but they are posted here free for the general good. As to your Dad's Ferret is that an adjudicator's white cross on the turret? Although the pennant further gives his position, might it being used to indicate he is 'hors de combat"?

Rather than a flag (rectangular), this is a pennant (triangular). The RAC colours embellished with an RAC badge I am sure are entirely genuine but more of a parade feature than serving as any tactical benefit. For those who are "into" flags for all occasions I have details I can post up for flags for use during radio silence in the desert & flags (very non-PC) for identify latrines to be used by different peoples. This last weekend I had three vertical whips of different types & a mast for a UHF yagi, no flags but enabled me to operate on 6m/4m/2m/70cm. The least DX turned out to be another Land Rover 30 yards away.

Jimmy when I said put the multimeter on the disconnected ammeter leads I should have said on Ohms just to give the ammeter a little stimulus. The Generator Panels are they all the same Mk? If so which Mk? How did you check the main harness? With a multimeter on ohms? Continuity may be verified but with dry joints passing a minimal current from the multimeter it could be quite different when amps are drawn across such joints. I had I think 3 dry joints in the connector cable that plug into the generator. The pictures show soldered ends of wire sitting loosely in the connector pins but no longer soldered. This connector is prone to tugging damage especially if yours is an earlier installation with the connector fitted on the top of the generator. It would be best to check integrity of these connections by direct inspection & lightly tugging each wire. Also when testing the continuity of individual wires make sure there is no continuity or leakage to other wires in the harness or the outer sheath. I have seen this happen when the harness has been crushed & then unsquashed so it looks innocent enough. Make sure the is no sign of bogeys or corrosion on the heatsinks, these should be well painted to make them waterproof to resist short circuiting to the case, either during immersion or subsequent corrosion. Establish that you get the prescribed resistance across U-V on the generator with the cable disconnected in all rotations of the shaft. With everything connected see what voltage you get off U-V in the panel. This is your field winding & of course without a decent magnetic field you won't get a proper output. (The output is regulated by field voltage being adjusted in proportion to the output) The chokes (ah so you must have a Mk 3) are the best place to monitor generator output as the generator -ve line is not earthed until later on). Faults in shunts & earthing strips etc will only cause problems further down the system, they won't effect the voltage at the chokes.

I'm not sure that there are any rules on such pennants, ceremonies of their various kinds are always a great opportunity for various embellishments on vehicles. Tactically would seem rather daft. I notice at shows, not only that the more aerials on a vehicle the less chance that there is any working radio equipment, but where an aerial supports a flag, working radio equipment is less likely to be found on the other end. But each to his own. As regards convoy flags, their use is laid down in the Joint Service Road Transport Regulations JSP 341 Chapter 12.

Nope, most of the current flows through the shunts. I think the basic movement of the ammeter is in the order of 500 micro-amps. I think that was a typo for "doesn't" you could disconnect the ammeter leads where they come off the shunt & momentarily put a multimeter on the ammeter leads & you should see the ammeter needle move. If not then you have a fault in the ammeter or the leads feeding it. But anyway failure would not be the cause of not charging.

37S series seemed to use H5 regulators & BCK-1 cutouts. The details of the replacements appear in EMER POWER 0 133 Table 1 1955 As far as applications go, these were the RAF applications in 1954 taken from AP 25151E Section 16E MT Electrical Equipment 141-1 Humber LRC IIIA 141-2 Bedford MWR 141-3X Bedford QLR 142-1 Bedford MW, QL

So has anyone heard any news of the outcome or are they still counting the votes?

Its very sad what people can do to a decent vehicle. Been on here a few times over the years, I first saw it in the early 1980s when it belonged to Roy Elvis registered as XOC 431T. I have a picture of it on Southsea Common & behind it a stall raising funds for "Raise the Mary Rose", so that dates it a bit.

I was going to say perhaps give greater reliance to the printed word, rather the on line word. But that particular magnesium myth has been harvested from the net & appears in a recently published book. :nut:

The Weeks book is very good. If you need the background on BATs it is more informative & accurate than the drivel you get from online encyclopaedias that is passed from site to site without further research, "weapon of magnesium" for goodness sake! :nono: