fv1609

.................................would you like to pay the entrance fee for displaying your vehicle?

I hope that was not in the Gammon Bar:nut: Anyway welcome Colin. Are you going to show us your Snatch soon?

Chris I'm not into Snatches, might that be considered to be Snatch 1? Because there is another AESP sequence including 2320-D-129-201 Truck, Utility, Medium, Enhanced Protected Vehicle (EPV CAV100). Would that be Snatch 2?

Ok here we go: 16 BK 39 FV1601 Serial No. 21639 Engine No. 5920 Date in Service 16/2/54 Delivered to 62nd B Vehicle Depot, Eglington, Ayrshire Receipt Voucher No. 2901 I have no unit history. The dates of disposal & where are contradictory. One set of records indicate it was disposed of at Ashchurch Sale No.74, Lot No.1210 for £140 on 23/7/64. Unfortunately I don't have this particular sales catalogue. To me it seems a little early for disposal. Looking at the main hand written ledger, it was struck off on 3/7/68. Followed by the abbreviation ASC I think this was misread as Ash, which is the abbreviation in some other entries. I'm not aware of any ordnance supply abbreviation ASC, so it may be simple be someone's improvised abbreviation for Ashchurch. However after this there is an entry "no paperwork" I don't have a picture of it the nearest is 16 BK 43. If you can get its civi reg I may have that in a photo?

Chris, what was the document code? This book cover stated it was an AESP but the code didn't conform to AESP structure 1990-S-3031/2/3/4 This was more to do with the date I suspect as it was published Jan 1990. The UHB was for 12v V8 TUM. The cover was from Courtaulds. But it sounds as if you got the proper one I assume 2320-D-129-201 or possibly 2320-D-127-201

Just be wary if you see a User Handbook for sale. There were 4 for sale on ebay recently. My friend was disappointed to find that apart from the cover there was no Snatchy content, just a Defender UHB inside

Possibly, I have some pics of civ registered Humbers that I can tie up to a military ERM. Can you not read the chassis plate, which is found by pushing your head between the front wheel arch & the wheel on the nearside? It is appx 6" x 3" on the chassis facing you as you peer in. You will need a torch & a cloth to clean the plate it should be stamped with a 5-digit serial number top left eg 21834 & beneath the ERM eg 18 BK 34 or just 18 34. Either set of numbers will do as you can see they have a close relationship. That is assuming you can get into the hedge:-D

Depends on the chassis & the bodywork is very relevant with a GS. Depends if the engine can turn over. If the engine is good & can even run then the base value has to be £500 minimum. Good bodywork & tyres increase the value of course. I am soon to be selling a Humber Malkara test truck with good engine & pretty reasonable bodywork, together with hacked around body one which was used by a garage. The engine seems ok & the cab internally complete. The two together £1,750. Hope that is of some help.

Probably best not to, staff are paid a bonus dependant on the number of customers dealt with per hour. Although they are usually courteous & pleasant, if they don't know it is easier to say "No". A rural sub Post Office on the other hand will be pleased to see you & find out if they don't know the answer. I notice that very little notice is taken of the Certificate of Insurance nowadays, what counts is whether the computer knows that vehicle is insured.

An Avo 8 was an industry standard & can do many things that an Avo 12 can & indeed far more things than are needed for automotive work. Although it is limited to 10 amps DC, whereas the Avo 12 goes up to 36 amps DC. Given the rarity of the Avo 12 it might be tempting to go for an Avo 8. In fact I have just purchased a nice Avo 8 as well. A word of warning if anyone is tempted to an Avo 8 currently on ebay, I can recognise, from certain micro characteristics, a meter that looks like one I returned with some defects being offered for sale again. PM me in confidence before bidding!

Andy absolutely with you there. It is always tempting to pick on the major components as suspects without fully scrutinising what connects them together. Connectors & cables are much more vulnerable to tugging, being crushed, knocked around, corrosion etc. This is not a scientific appraisal but a based on experience assessment with systems like this, the faults seem to be: 5% Generator 25% Generator Panel 70% Cables, plugs, leads within plugs & earth problems Apart from tugging & nudging cables & connectors, the use of a hard rubber or plastic hammer can be useful to stimulate panels, plugs etc to bring about a change so often only experienced when you have an intermittent fault when driving along. Be wary of accepting continuity tests on cables, inspect the insides & gently tug at the wires. Like these dry joints below, that passed on low current continuity tests, but in effect were just intermittently wedged in place. There was a third grotty one as well! These wires are particularly prone to damage by getting tugged on whenever the main cable is pulled or bent. They supply the field winding & output from the low power diodes. If that all seems ok try the flow sequence of tests in ACU 3 to get the culprit ie generator, panel or cables. If that is inconclusive if you can't substitute a panel of any Mk (although charge light won't work with wrong one) then start at the generator with test & work back to the panel. BTW I have a spare Gen Panel, I think Mk 3 though, that you could try & buy if it cures it. I am near Salisbury.

Malcolm can you make absolutely certain that there is no short circuiting of the HIGH/LOW switch if there is it will charge at the low rate. Even so at 2,000 rpm you would still be getting 26v or so without having to do high revs. I hate these solid state regulators, there is so much less to test & do something about! Earlier Mks you can power up 'in reverse' & take readings around the voltage regulator & get some pointers without the generator being connected. Your field winding isn't getting enough voltage to give proper output. That could be because of your regulator module or there isn't enough output from the low power diodes in the alternator. A rather chicken/egg situation. Check that the black rubber bullet connector is sound. A grotty there will cause the field winding voltage to go right down. Unplug both ends of it & make sure the contacts still look silver plated on the plugs themselves & inside the coupler. There obviously isn't enough voltage to charge the batteries as there is way too little voltage on the winding of the battery relay. It looks as it the winding for the relay is ok as there is a voltage drop over 100 ohm resistor from T2 to T3. It would be nice if the was someone nearby with a 90A system with whom you could plug in your generator panel & see if it worked. Failing that you need to go measuring the diodes, with ideally an analogue meter if you can. Then you get rid of the flickering of readings & the "and rising" readings you mentioned. As you know the benefit of digital meters & before that, valve voltmeters was that it made little appreciable impact on most electronic circuits one was measuring. Indeed with moving coil multimeters the goodness factor of its lack of impact on a circuit was measured in thousands of ohms per volt. But in these charging circuits we are not hunting for piffling little voltages that might wither away when tested. No in my own testings I just can't put up any more with digital meters flickering & dithering even when they are measuring nothing. Although I have a couple of Avo 8s they have high ohms per volt & ranges that are not needed for automotive electrics. I have just bought an Avo 12. A classic reliable meter intended for automotive diagnostics, no nonsense here it is 200 ohms per volt. This will determine if there is a proper voltage there or not! With ranges DC ranges of 36, 18, 9 & 3.6 volts it is ideal. Two resistance ranges that will drive any tested diode into conduction & DC current ranges of 3.6 & 36 amps. With an external shunt it can read 360 amps. No nonsense classic quality British instrument sadly no longer made. These do crop up. One sold on ebay a couple of days ago for about £72 it did have the 360 amp shunt. Mine doesn't have that but it only cost me £12.50 on ebay the week before!

Malcolm, T 1, 2 & 3 readings are at tickover? What are they at med-high revs?

Matt can you unscrew it to see if there is some sort part number stamped inside? That would give something to go on. But silly things inside might help. The terminal screws inside, if they are BA then it will be British but the coarser thread would suggest American. If there are lock washers, they can sometimes give a clue. Stellate ones (ie spikey bits on the outside) were favoured by the Americans. Whereas lock washers with the spikes inwards were favoured by the British.

Well I'm sorry if I & my fellow posters have upset you & the show organisers. No offence was intended & I don't think anything derogatory was suggested. In fact quite the opposite, it showed that Overlord is a well established event in the area & that the new site will be an improvement on the previous site that was in the vicinity. Had nobody posted any comments or questions then your single post would gradually be sinking down the pile into oblivion. I believe that the innocent banter that followed your initial post has helped to 'bump' the topic to the top of the pile which can only be good in promoting further publicity for the show & its new venue. The full details of which are always there right at the top of the thread. There you are I've just 'bumped' your advertising to the top of the pile again. :-D:-D:-D

I know its not the publication you are asking about, but you probably know about the Army publication? These turn up from time to time. Small Arms Training, Volume I, Pamphlet No.24 Projector, Infantry, Anti-Tank (PIAT) 1943

Wayne is this picture too exciting for you on a Monday morning?

Mark a good place to look for things about 37 pattern is here: http://www.karkeeweb.com/1937main.html

Paul you need to be careful, there are some errors in Table II. Off hand can't remember which entries are incorrect, but not very inspiring for a DEF STAN:rolleyes:

Yes I remember the pylons. I was in my other Pig parked under the high voltage cables strung between them. I remember be awakened by the sound of lager leaking from a wooden box. I assumed a nail had pierced the can. But there was no leak, I traced the source of this hissing sound. I noticed the end the cable going to the antenna mount had a one inch spark leaping to the chassis. Not too good as it was just above the fuel tank filler. I pushed it away with something insulated & drove rather off rather rapidly. It was a rather damp weekend, I remember someone with a DUKW even got stuck. But anyway this was before the rains really came down. There were an alarming number of vehicles parked directly under these cables. I spoke to everyone parked under the cables, starting with the vehicles with aerials for FRR purposes or for supporting flags. Nobody took any notice of my experience or seemed able to grasp the significance of where they had parked on a damp day with aerials sticking up. They either didn't really believe me or they thought it was a ploy to steal their place with a response along the lines "I've been here since yesterday & I'm not moving for anyone".

Out of curiosity how close is it to the old Denmead show site?

Ken there are very few 1-Ton Trailers out there, although I have one it has a Cipher Office body on it. Seems a shame to let it go to waste. Might be worth taking a few pictures as that excites interest a bit more than a description. In fact I have some LV9/BTR spares I need to advertise. I'm shortly going to dispose of a complete 1-Ton Trailer which is in a rather poor state.

Ken LV9/BTR is the DMC (Domestic Management Code) or at that time the VAOS (Vocabulary of Army Ordnance Stores) prefix for Standardised Trailers, which equates to the 1-Ton Trailer FV2401 series.

Wow & I've got an original, so that must be worth a lot more & it's got a green top page. All those SEME manuals were stapled together, looks like the pricey one even is a copy as it has punched holes & tags. PS I don't know why he says 1982, it looks like Mar 86, which is the same as mine.

John I have looked for 2204-3102 through catalogues of B & E vehicles for 1991 & 1998 but nothing. Going in from the other end I have been looking at Army Code 12123 Part V Index of Complete Equipment Schedules 1999 & 2000. Here is something very close but the Asset Code is not quite the same, but CES is going to pretty close I would have thought. 2204 8101 TRUCK UBRE 4 Tonne 4x4 LHD LEYLAND DAF 2204 3101 TRUCK UBRE 4 Tonne 4x4 RHD LEYLAND DAF Both of these have the same CES as Army Code No.31868C. This is linked to CES as Army Code No.31868 for TRUCK PLATFORM 4 Tonne 4x4 LEYLAND DAF This CES covers 2091-8104 2091-3102 2091-3103