Search the Community
Showing results for tags '109'.
For sale, Full years Mot, free tax,recently shot blasted deep dish V8 rims with 4 new tyres, 2 sets of keys, service history log, both petrol tanks operational, 4 stretchers & 2 medical chairs, chassis and bulkhead fully waxoyled, free wheeling hubs, has been used extensively on military show scene and camping trips. This is not a Defender and doesn’t have power steering. It’s got an original non synchro 1st and 2nd gearbox and does require a bit of skill in driving the vehicle. £6995 Ono serious buyers only. No time wasters. Ring Brian 07762088158 Ballynahinch Co Down Northern Ireland
I've been having some issues with charging on my 1983 24v landrover 109. I've been reading up on this thanks to Clives Elliott's 'All Charged Up' series of articles, but I thought I'd ask for a bit of help/feedback. Here's the situation. We're dealing with a Generator No 10. Mk3 and a Generator Panel No.9 Mk.4 (90 amp). The system looks to be in fairly original condition with no modificatons. There is no radio equipment, only the 2 vehicle batteries. A couple of weeks ago the charge warning light started to flicker into life and before long, was permanently beaming brightly at me. I can vouch for the fact that what the little light is trying to tell me is indeed true; the batteries are definately not charging. I did some resistance checks over the weekend during which I took the belts and cables off the alternator and unplugged the generator panel and shunt. As is the way with these things, something magically sorted itself for about 10 minutes, before the little light started to flicker again and we were back where we started. Interestingly, the light became brighter whilst the engine was being revved, which fueled my suspicion that the belts might be the issue, but a new set of belts have since proved this to be wrong. So the results of the tests... 1) Voltage at Inspection light sockets: No rise in voltage at inspection light sockets when running the engine. The good news here, however, is that there is no drop in battery charge over a couple of days, so I'm not losing charge unneccesarily. Not really related to the issue in hand, but nice to know. 2) Alternator diode tests (using a digital multimeter): 2a) +ve prod to W & -ve prod to X Resistance = 66,000 Ohms (and rising...?) Diode voltage drop = .8v 2b) +ve prod to X & +ve prod to W Resistance = 70,000 Ohms (and rising...?) Diode voltage drop = No Circuit Theoretically the resistance measurements in 2a should be low. I suspect the high resistance reading is due to the multimeter mode not having enough voltage to get past the diode when it is set to measure resistance, as explained in Clive's 'All charged up - Part 4'. The voltage drop was measured in the mulitmeter's diode test mode and leads me to believe that the diodes are probably working ok. Correct me if I'm wrong! 3) Resistance in field winding: The readings from this are a bit more difficult to interpret as they varied wildly. Readings were anything from about 20 ohms up to about 300 ohms, with a few cases of 'no circuit' in between. I'm not sure if this is due to the use of a digital multimeter, or whether the brushes could be cause of the problem? 4) Alternator test readings taken at generator panel: Readings were similar to those taken in item 2) which suggests that the cable is probably ok. 5) Continuity tests between generator panel plug and inside of shunt. All continuity tests ok. Suggests that cable is ok. Thats as far as I've got. It seems that the brushes might be suspect, but my question is how stable should the field winding resistance be? So, where do I go next? It seems that more reading up is required! Regards, Malcolm Walker Cardiff