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Miwalker

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  1. Clive, No problem, I'll get on the case and start looking for a new one. Thanks once again and I hope to bump into you sometime so that I can buy you a pint or something. Regards, Malcolm.
  2. Clive, I'm in Cardiff so if you do come across a suitable replacement I would quite happily drive down to pick it up. If you don't find one, not to worry, I'll go with Andy's suggestions. Incidentally I bought some alternator belts from John Richards for a good price a couple of weeks ago. Thanks Guys, Malcolm.
  3. Hi All, Removing the clamp seems to have cured it! I would post a photo but the clamp is far too inaccessible to get the camera in. I guess the learning point for this is to make sure you carry out a really thorough physical check of the system before you jump deep into the electrical side of things. Clive's rule of thumb that 70% of the time the problem lies on the cabling has proved true in my case. Still, it took a bit a hunting to find it and without this forum I wouldn't have known where to start. Thankyou very much to everyone who has contributed and particular thanks to Clive who has guiding me through this problem. I recommend anyone with similar issues to read and digest his articles on the subject. Now to source a replacement cable... I believe the part no is 54950615. Can anyone confirm this. Regards, Malcolm.
  4. Breaking news! I may have identified the problem. I am in the process of checking the cable between the alternator and the generator panel. Whilst poking around the back of the alternator, I noticed that the metal shielding on the cable is heavily frayed where it passes through a clamp mounted on the engine. I suspect that this clamp, which has been eating it's way through the cable, has just reached copper! My plan is to temporarily remove the clamp to see that fixes / bodges the problem sufficiently for us to get back on the road. I'll let you know how that goes. I will, however, definitely need a new cable. Any assistance in sourcing one will be gratefully received! Regards, Malcolm.
  5. Hi All, Clive, some things there for me to do this weekend. I'll keep an eye out for an Avo 12, I think I might be getting some use out of it! Andy, I was just considering the same thing when you posted. I'll check all the connectors carefully as it did appear to fix itself for a while the last time I played around. I'm sure this wouldn't occur if it were a electrical component fault, would it? Mike, that's what forums are for! Thanks Everybody, Malcolm.
  6. Hi Clive, No change whilst revving, certainly not like there was on T4. Regards, Malcolm.
  7. Hi Clive, and anyone else following this! Back home again, so have managed a couple more tests with the voltmeter tonight. Haven't managed a diode test on the generator yet. Here are the results for the generator panel: T4: 4v at tickover, rising to about 15v at mid revs and up to about 27-28v only at unhealthily high revs! T1: 1.5v - 2v T2: 2.5v T3: 0.8v Your interpretation would be very much appreciated. I'm into unfamiliar territory now! Regards, Malcolm.
  8. Excellent! Thankyou Clive! Plenty there to keep me busy. I'm away for a week or so but I'll come back to you soon after. On the bright side of all this, there's no better way to get to know the insides of the landrover! Regards, Malcolm.
  9. Hi Andy, Spotted your post earlier in the week, but have just read it again makes a bit more sense now I'm further into the problem. Depending on the feedback on the alternator, I think i may need to spread my search a little bit. Certainly the earth bonds are a prime target for further investigation, as are the cables. Won't do any harm even if they aren't at fault. Not quite ready for poking about in the panel yet, this is my first time at all this! However, That does lead me to a question. Does anyone know how important it is to seal the panel box? Mines been opened before, I'm missing a couple of nuts and the seal is falling apart. Being a canvas top, it's pretty moist in there at the best of times! Malcolm.
  10. I've been having some issues with charging on my 1983 24v landrover 109. I've been reading up on this thanks to Clives Elliott's 'All Charged Up' series of articles, but I thought I'd ask for a bit of help/feedback. Here's the situation. We're dealing with a Generator No 10. Mk3 and a Generator Panel No.9 Mk.4 (90 amp). The system looks to be in fairly original condition with no modificatons. There is no radio equipment, only the 2 vehicle batteries. A couple of weeks ago the charge warning light started to flicker into life and before long, was permanently beaming brightly at me. I can vouch for the fact that what the little light is trying to tell me is indeed true; the batteries are definately not charging. I did some resistance checks over the weekend during which I took the belts and cables off the alternator and unplugged the generator panel and shunt. As is the way with these things, something magically sorted itself for about 10 minutes, before the little light started to flicker again and we were back where we started. Interestingly, the light became brighter whilst the engine was being revved, which fueled my suspicion that the belts might be the issue, but a new set of belts have since proved this to be wrong. So the results of the tests... 1) Voltage at Inspection light sockets: No rise in voltage at inspection light sockets when running the engine. The good news here, however, is that there is no drop in battery charge over a couple of days, so I'm not losing charge unneccesarily. Not really related to the issue in hand, but nice to know. 2) Alternator diode tests (using a digital multimeter): 2a) +ve prod to W & -ve prod to X Resistance = 66,000 Ohms (and rising...?) Diode voltage drop = .8v 2b) +ve prod to X & +ve prod to W Resistance = 70,000 Ohms (and rising...?) Diode voltage drop = No Circuit Theoretically the resistance measurements in 2a should be low. I suspect the high resistance reading is due to the multimeter mode not having enough voltage to get past the diode when it is set to measure resistance, as explained in Clive's 'All charged up - Part 4'. The voltage drop was measured in the mulitmeter's diode test mode and leads me to believe that the diodes are probably working ok. Correct me if I'm wrong! 3) Resistance in field winding: The readings from this are a bit more difficult to interpret as they varied wildly. Readings were anything from about 20 ohms up to about 300 ohms, with a few cases of 'no circuit' in between. I'm not sure if this is due to the use of a digital multimeter, or whether the brushes could be cause of the problem? 4) Alternator test readings taken at generator panel: Readings were similar to those taken in item 2) which suggests that the cable is probably ok. 5) Continuity tests between generator panel plug and inside of shunt. All continuity tests ok. Suggests that cable is ok. Thats as far as I've got. It seems that the brushes might be suspect, but my question is how stable should the field winding resistance be? So, where do I go next? It seems that more reading up is required! Regards, Malcolm Walker Cardiff
  11. Just a quick note to say hello to every body on the forum. I recently bought a 1983 Landrover 109 FFR as my first venture into the landrover and MV world. I must say that this forum has been a great help already! Although the load bay is now empty and the canvas is a civvy type, everything else seems pretty much original and I intend keeping it that way. I've got a couple of electrical charging issues to sort out, but Clive Elliott's 'All Charged Up' series of articles are worth their weight in gold. I'll leave you with a photo taken earlier in the month. Regards, Malcolm Walker, Cardiff.
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