fv1609

Probably not on an official basis. I have the UHB & that is an exclusively WO publication not a shared Air Publication like the K9 UHB. I also have AP 2782 Data Book of RAF Vehicles. Book 1. Prime Movers. This covers the 1950s & the Morris is not listed.

I gave up banging my head against a brick wall. Sold the truck & bought something of a higher rating.

Yes they often turn up. No.17 Mk 1 or Mk 3 I always wonder whatever happened to the Mk 2? :-D

That's the easy bit. The real give away is when the hatch is opened. People seem not to don't bother with the splash guard edging (bullets not rain!) & the rimmed enclosure for the rotating aperture closure as this is a casting & difficult fake. Then there is the catch & hatch lever arm to consider.

Jamie it is a lot of hard work. Unless you can get original door hatches & the visors it won't look right. I have seen a number of retro conversions over the years, all of them have required much effort & some have been carried out with a high degree of skill far beyond my metal working efforts. But I'm afraid I have never seen one that looked totally convincing.

Take your pick! C11/R210 C11-R210/C13 C11-R210/C42 C11-R210/C11-R210 C11-R210/C45/R209 C13/C42 with Remote Control C13/C45/B47 with two stowed SR No.31, Mk.2, Manpacks C13/C45/B48 with stowed SR A41 & A42 C42 C42 (12v) ALS C42/C45/B47 with two SR No 31, Mk 2 Manpacks C42/C45/B48 with stowed SR A41 & A42 C45 C45/B48 with stowed SR A41 & A42 Manpack C13/C13 But Jamie I thought you had a Mk 2 in APC role?

and the smell of musty paper, the well thumbed page, the slightly rusty paper clip, it's all part of the experience

Chronology of Events Connected with Army Administration 1858-1907 Yes

Well don't buy any of those to use with your Shorland! You need the Standard NI Anti-Riot Helmet with Visor (ART) Civilian Pattern. This basically looks like a matt green motorcyclist's helmet with pop studs & hinge points for visor. Sizing as per head circumference for a normal civilian helmet.

Just make sure they do. There was an item about problems with this on today's Radio 4 Moneybox. Where the next payment was taken in advance of the renewal date & people thinking they had cancelled. Then the insurer charging cancellation fees of £40.

Iain thank you for the offer but I'm ok for the Pye service manuals & have the EMERs. I liked dismantling the QRO versions of Pye stuff with the QQZO3-20A which was very nice for /M being the quick heat version of the QQVO3-20A. My regret was there didn't seem to be a quick heat version of the QQVO6-40A?

At last I have found the E&MEI which is quite a rare document. It is dated Dec 1974 and introduces an intercom to provide driver/commander communications in all UDR Mk 3 Shorlands. Interestingly it refers to Pye Westminster/Bantam installations. I'm surprised that the Bantam continued in use for so long as it only had a RF output of 1 watt. I was once told prior to this the commander had a hole cut in his helmet by his right ear to facilitate the earpiece for the telephone type handset for the radio & to hear the driver. The driver had a hole in his helmet over his left ear to hear his commander. The gunner seemed to have been out of the loop as it were.

The Army had AM & FM versions, dash mount & remote mounted. The majority of traffic in NI was FM. Shorlands used the dash mounted W15FM mounted on the metal plate you have. I have a couple of AM ones for certain they look the same as FM. But I don't know what accessories I have. Where are you? I am near Salisbury.

It was in the US. The description has a number of errors you'll probably spot. I'll answer the other points later when I have found the E&MEI http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RARE-RHD-LAND-ROVER-4x4-MILITARY-SHORLAND-ARMORED-PATROL-WHALE-TAIL-TURRET-MK1-/280967442977?forcev4exp=true

Tyler I would forget about the A41 & Bantam & use the configuration that you have & look out for a Westminster. If you are getting the radio fittings sorted out does that mean the Shorland is all up & running now? I heard yesterday that the Shorland bought recently on eBay in the US, has been sorted out automotively & is now running around after 15 years of lying idle.

Tyler you need to decide what era you want to depict. If you want to look for an A41 or a Pye Bantam fine, but these were just early improvisations on the ex-RUC 'BT' registered Shorlands & the UDR Mk 3 Shorlands in the first contract 'FL'. The distribution panel & intercom box that you have came a little later & were used in conjunction with a Pye Westimster. So this would have been fitted slightly later to 'FL' & straight away for the later 'GF' Shorlands. I may have a spare Westminster or two.

Richard I wondered what they were used for given that one number was a Scammell number. Of course fitting a buzzer is not rocket science but for at least 10 years I have been meaning to get round to do it on the Defender of the time. The difficulty was taking the time to think of where best to get into the loom & do battle with all those horrible bits of plastic!

The Wolf turn light warning light is extremely dim, no doubt there are good tactical reasons for this. Similarly the clicking of the turn light flasher is inaudible when in motion. The consequence of this is that it can be dangerous when turning left onto a main road if I don’t realise that the turn indicator is still operating. Sometimes on minor roads a driver will pull out in front of me resulting in a near accident as the driver believed it was my intention to turn left allowing him to pull out without our paths crossing. I needed to fix a warning buzzer of some sort. Most of the ones I have seen were delicate piezo-electric devices operating at 12 volts. The Wolf is of course 24 volts irrespective of whether it is a GS or FFR. I was looking for something that was for 24 volts and sturdy. I found this military buzzer and as I found it had a Scammell part number as well thought it was ideal. NSN 6350-99-794-4345 and other part numbers are 1049688, 49688C, ACU6723. It is not an electro-mechanical buzzer as it is polarity sensitive so I assume it is piezo-electric. It works equally well on 12 volts as 24 volts. The Wolf circuit diagram is not especially helpful as the turn light flasher is disguised as “Hazard Warning Relay”. The first step was to disconnect the earth terminal of the battery, then remove the fuse box cover and unscrew the fuse box support bracket (but not the fuse box panel itself). The relay is black and located on the left side. It can be released by jostling it upwards as it is just a push fit. Turn the relay upside down to get optimum access to the wires feeding the socket. Identify the two wires that are pale green and the pale green with brown trace. Attach an additional bleed wire about 4 inches long to each of these two feed wires by using “Scotch” type connectors. Ensure that the bleed wires are of a similar thickness to the feed wires. Otherwise it can give rise to a defective connection if the wire is not thick enough then the jointing blade in the connector cannot effectively penetrate the insulation and make a reliable contact to the thinner inner wire. To the end of each bleed wire attach a Lucar blade connector and observe the polarity to the buzzer, as it will not work the wrong way round. Allow the buzzer to dangle downwards so the sound can exit the base of the fuse bracket. Screw it all back together and reconnect the battery earth. Check that the buzzer works with turn lights then go out for a drive and assess whether the sound level of the buzzer is to your requirements. When you have parked up, if you want it louder pull the buzzer down lower but if it too loud push it back inside the fuse box a bit or even put a bit tape over its aperture. Although the Defender uses a 12 volt system, looking at the circuit diagram it appears to work in a similar manner. This particular 24 volt buzzer still gives a very good output on 12 volts. It was obtained on eBay for £5, there are other buzzers around that would do the job. But finding 24 volt versions does limit the market. Copyright 2012 Clive Elliott (I have done this as it might form the basis of a club Newsletter article for those who are not online)

Looks like fireworks on 5th November. http://www.london-gazette.co.uk/issues/60305/notices/1691631/recent=10;category=corp-insolvency-winding-up-creditors;subcategory=meetings-creditors

Yes A41

Tyler as you can see it is not mounted on plywood, that was a slip in my memory as my Vanguard was mounted on plywood over the wheel arch. That was a RUC arrangement, although mine was subsequently issued to the UDR it seems not to have been fitted with the arrangement you have, which became standard for the two batches of Mk 3 Shorlands issued to the UDR. I think you will find that there is just an audio amplifier for the intercom in the Eddystone diecast box. There were minimal EMERs issued for Shorlands but there is some coverage in an E & MEI issued in 1974 which I will try to find. My original reference to RUC Commers on 108 Mc/s is again a slip in memory it was a little below 88 Mc/s. The point being that people could just tune their VHF radios to the end of the scale & hear advance warning of the water cannon etc The small multiway plug you have is for a Pye Westminster.

Big tin of paint?

The first official reference to FV436 I have is in the Equipment Regulations of 1964 which gives it as Carrier, Radar, Full Tracked with the Asset Code 0080.0160 The provisional Green Archer UHB was issued in 1962. It has, if you will pardon the expression, fallen off the radar by 1970 as it is no longer listed in the RAOC statistics publication of A,B & C vehicles. Although the parts list is still was demandable in the 1974 Catalogue Of Army Publications. Jane's indicates that Green Archer of its various kinds was obsolescent by 1976. I think this was the basis for Terry Gander in one of his books to say it was used "up to about 1976". Cymberline only seemed to be regarded as modification to a FV432 rather than a special variant. I agree with Andy that FV436 surfaced again as an ASV & is listed in a 2003 EMER catalogue & the UHB was published in 1988.

Welcome on here. You are doing a good job especially keeping the original 40A system. Quite an unusual role for it, nice to see diversification in Rovers for that's what they lend themselves to. Catch up with you again on Series 2 forum with your alternator repair