fv1609

Nope not that.

I could with a puff of that on a day like today Tony. Go outside to do something & it starts raining again. So back indoors wasting time

Ingenious but not that.

Nope although it is a Land Rover. (Thanks to Philip of Dunsfold for access to this document)

I can see where you are coming from but this process should not be making smoke.

What's this all about?

Chris that is excellent news. Well done for sticking with it. It is very kind of you to offer but it is sufficient reward to know that it worked out for you and be told the outcome. I much prefer to do these discussions in public then others can get a few pointers who might be faced with the same problem. PMs & emails can't be shared & are much more likely to fizzle out either because the questioner lost interest or perhaps I solved the problem but never heard any more. As it happens I have been writing an article on the FFR Rover ignition system for some 2 years. Talking someone through it helps me crystalise how best to suggests tests in situ. I don't know if you have seen the All Charged Up article. The final version was greatly influenced by a series of problems that were discussed in the open, so it does help me. As for timing bear in mind the fuel used when these vehicles were set up in service is quite different from the stuff that we get these days. I just timing it to give best smooth running which may not necessarily be fasted revs. Maing adjustments slowly & waiting a little to observe the change before adjusting further.

Dave I used to have a Bantam for years, but long since gone. Not seen a surplus one for 10+ years.

Tim you've rumbled me, any knowledge is simply knowing were to look it up Some of these documents give a great insight to the health of the population & attitudes of the time. In the recruiting period 1903-1912 some 580,799 recruits were examined & some were rejected on these diverse grounds: Flat feet - 6,050 Over height - 191 Under height - 5,945 Under chest measurement - 27,333 Diseases of heart - 17,477 Defective vision - 15,672 Defective intelligence - 752 Haemorrhoids - 441 Syphilis - 1,167 Impediment of speech - 812 Decayed teeth - 31,721 Not likely to be an efficient soldier - 1,449

David this will do it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-to-24V-BATTERY-CHARGER-12AMP-288W-DC-DC-/330560279123?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Other_Vehicle_Parts_Accessories_ET&hash=item4cf6ed9253 That will give you an independent charge to your lighting batteries. They do a range of chargers. Do you necessarily want 24v for your lights? We have been fixing a system for a 24v truck to run a charge for a 12v leisure system. They do a version for that. Then even if you flatten the leisure battery you can still operate the vehicle. Obviously the charger initiate wire comes from the ignition circuit, but they do versions that only charge once the vehicle voltage rises above 25v. So that with all your lights & blowers on there may not be enough ummph for the leisure battery to be charged as well. At least that prioritises where the power goes. They also do a unit for running a 24v vehicle with a 12v trailer useful if you have different voltage prime movers & don't want to keep changing the bulbs in the trailer.

Chris, at this stage I won't worry about the crack in the insulation. If it was causing a problem it would be causing a short circuit across the points & you would be reading 0v at the live side of the points. As you are getting 24v at the points the only conclusion is that the points are not closed. So short them with a screw driver. ie put the blade of the screwdriver from the live side to the base plate. The voltage at the output from the filter box should now drop to 9v or so. When you release the screwdriver there will be a slight spark at the screwdriver. Mind your fingers this will be 300v or so back EMF from the primary of the coil. If that appears ok, check what gap there is at the points. If they are meant to be closed & aren't then adjust the gap with the points open & "dress" them if one point is pitted & the opposite point bumpy. You may find it helpful to dismount the distributor & rotate the shaft with your fingers to see & measure what is happening.

Oh yes between the Crimea & WW2 there were more deaths due to disease than any enemy action. Apart from that as a general trend diseases of their various kinds are higher amongst less experienced troops. During peace time STDs go up but malaria & dysentery goes down. In conflicts the ratio is reversed.

Tony not an appendix in sight! Just abstracts.

These two arrived today. Slightly disappointed that they are the public purchase versions. I have the Parliamentary versions for 1884, 1901 & 1913, they basically they carry the same type of information but are rarer publications with a print run of just 200. Still some good reading ahead 600 pages in 1904 & 400 in 1905.

For those following the thread this is what I posted on the other forum. "So that means you either have a burnt out primary in the coil or defective leads or the small lead at the points or the points have burnt out or badly adjusted. See if you can measure 24v at the live side of the points then that means coil & leads are ok. With ignition off see with an ohmmeter if the points complete a circuit when they are meant to be closed. Also check the earthy side of the points does really contact earth. Check the continuity of the live side of points that it connects to centre of lead when you unscrew it from CB terminal of coil." So Chris how did you get on with that?

Chris the wipers & washer have their own private fuse which is 2nd or 3rd one depending which way you look at it. With 3 white leads in & one green lead out. Again the heater has a private fuse which is in line via brown with orange trace to the ignition switch & the other end of the fuse to the heater switch. Good that you get 25v to ignition filter input. Put the test prod on the centre of the screened cable just before it leaves the filter box. You should get 9-10v if the points are closed. You should get 25v if the CB points are open. Take the top off the distributor off & inspect the points. If they are open then switch them closed by carefully using a screwdriver blade to short the points to each other. The voltage should go down to 9-10v as the coil draws current & causes a voltage drop across the ballast resistor in the ignition box.

Chris don't bother about that big fuse at moment it just protects the radio battery supply.

Here you go:

A bulb is even cheaper :-D

The chances are you won't get a spark as the ignition LT is drawn from the junction of all those items that don't work. Its easy to undo the 4 screws on the ignition filter. Put a voltmeter or bulb test probe & see if the feed from a white wire coming from the ignition is live (obviously with the ignition on). If nothing then examine the 4-way fuse holder. Not to investigate the fuses but at the live side of fuses 3 & 4 are joined together. This is the feed point that seems defective. You should find 5 white leads & a brown lead. Follow the brown lead to pin 2 of the ignition switch. While you are there check pin 4 which is a brown with orange trace wire that feeds through an in-line fuse which is solely for the heater motor. As you can run the starter, pin 1 should be live all the time. This is a brown wire that goes to the live end of fuse 1. Here it joins another brown wire that is fed from the shunt box & another brown wire feeding the red socket of the dash power sockets.

Chris welcome. Just trying to form a picture of the problem from the circuit diagram. Do the oil pressure, cold start & brake warning test button lights work? These share a common link to the ignition warning light at the fuse box. Although none of these services are actually fused.

Pretty much there Richard. Here is the message I sent to the PRV webmaster. The two vehicles are Mk 1 Humber "Pigs". The Humber chassis was made by the Rootes Group in Coventry. The armoured bodies made by Joseph Sankey & the Royal Ordnance Factories in Nottingham & Woolwich. These are both Mk 1 FV1612 FFW (Fitted For Wireless) as opposed to FV1611 the personnel carrier. They are not yet FFR (Fitted for Radio) although these conversions were available from late 1962. All Pigs have 3 antenna bases when the FFW was upgraded to FFR a fourth base was added to the rear off side as you can see on 26 BK 74 it does not have this fitted. The history of this Pig shows it was fitted with Station Radio 'R' Type "H". This was a DF system that used several Pigs & trialled in early 1960s. I have the 1963 Trials User Handbook this is for the second trials so it must have started perhaps the previous year when this picture would most likely been taken. It can't be too much early as Pig production ran 1959-60 & besides the book is March 1963 so probably 1962 is the year of this photo. The history of the 27 BK 70 does not mention Type H, but that means nothing. I had a Pig that was used for this & there was no record card evidence. You will see it has a telescopic mast on one side & on one of the antenna bracket that resembles the base for Type H. There was as penthouse used & I suspect these may have been made by Park Royal carried in the near side locker (opened on photo see pages 12-13 http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/SHELTERS.pdf) and no doubt they made the internal fittings & furniture in the Pig itself. I suspect the Pigs were over from BAOR as: BAOR were very keen on painting vehicles with anti-freeze marks. See above the Union Flag a white square with red disc. Union Flag used in BAOR, there would be no need if in UK only. Same applies with the Bridge Class painted in. In UK in peacetime vehicles were not marked up as bridges were not classified for loads unlike in Germany.

I have sent my observations to their webmaster. But does anyone have any ideas what these two Pigs are doing at Park Royal? http://www.brindale.co.uk/ach/prv_site/site_index/prv_site_frames.htm?http://www.brindale.co.uk/ach/prv_site/military.htm

Beno I don't understand about the need for dual tones. I've had two S3 LtWts which just had a single tone horn. Part numbers are: NSN 2590-99-824-5071 Rover 623187 This is the same for S3 3/4 Ton & 1 Tonne

Yes I made that one out of plastic. (Also made the missile bins they were ally though!) The discs were fitted to all Vigilant Shorlands. But not to normal RUC Shorlands. However I have seen newsreel footage showing one on a RUC Shorland! The answer is that the Shorland shown below the picture of my turret at the Paris Air Show WAS a RUC vehicle 1960 TZ. It was a mock up as the Vigilant Shorland demonstrator was already committed elsewhere and was loaned by the RUC. There may have been a second Browning with disc, because AOI 4055 was originally built as a Vigilant model but was diverted from contract to be issued to the RUC in 16/10/69 subsequent to the rioting in August.