fv1609

This is the type that most people DON'T need. Some of them look to be of recent manufacture.

The paper cartridge element is Tecalmit FA2688 & I think Crossland 432 (B674) There are two types made from nappy material: The common one open both ends is British Filters LF3F, NSN 2940-99-800-8003 later quoted as LF3/35, NSN 2940-99-800-8051. The other is closed one end LF2/31B or sometimes stated as just LF3, NSN 2940-99-800-8043. (Sometimes quoted with the DMC 6M51 which is a typo for 6MT1). This one is intended for early engines that had no bypass in the filter mount.

Of the 124 Saracen mods I have, the Mine Exploder only gets mentioned twice in 1976 & 1977. Certainly a recognised variant as it looks as if its Asset Code was 0005-6401.

Yes I was looking for some of these recently. The problem is that all the UK sellers on e bay quote the vehicle make & model without any indication of hole size. But it was the Chinese sellers who had the sense to list items for a particular hole size. They came quite quickly. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181607594590?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Close to the battery is important of course but also within easy reach of the driver. Fractions of a second count when your loom is starting to overheat. Although either positive or negative switching will obviously kill the supply. I favour in a negative earth vehicle, switching the negative because then you can use a spanner to tighten or undo the positive connector with no fear of a meltdown if the spanner touches the bodywork. In a positive switched system you would need to undo the negative terminal first, in order to put a spanner on the positive terminal safely. Not a big deal but you have always remember to undo the negative one before the other. The risk is increased in a 24v system inevitably having two 12v batteries. Switching the negative off allows safe spanner access to three otherwise live terminals. If you switch the positive you really should undo the negative earth terminal before spannering the other three terminals. PS Agree with Andy was composing this whilst he posted.

Richard yes I see some Lucas coils with a Sellotape type label with polarity, which of course is soon lost. If they can stamp the part number & a date code on the can it seems strange that the design polarity can't also be permanently recorded.

Didn't seem to be a problem Lauren when I changed my Mini's polarity in the 1960s. It is quite correct to change the terminal on the ignition coil in order to maintain the polarity of the HT so that you still have negative spark. A point often missed is that using a coil designed say for positive earth but wired for negative earth operation will not give quite so much output as a negative earth coil in a negative earth set up. When the points open & the magnetic field collapses inducing an EMF in the secondary winding this is the HT. But there is also an EMF of about 300v released from the primary. The spark at the points is not the battery spark it is this 300v. The windings are so arranged that this 300v is added to the HT. If you use a coil designed for a different polarity this 300v is subtracted from the HT. So in effect you lose 600v of HT compared with a proper polarity coil. May not be significant in a low compression engine but if there are other compromises in the HT system there's no point in introducing a 600v loss. There is one electrical site that is often quoted on Land Rover sites covering many useful topics but the author claims that the coil automatically adjusts for this change. This is cobblers a coil can't rewind itself to the correct phase. This is why there are negative or positive earth coils, they are not universal polarity!

Yes (it won't allow me to just answer Yes so I typed this)

Charlie here is the thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?42689-which-cables-are-used-to-power-a-Penthouse-Lamp&highlight=penthouse+connections

Charlie there is 230v one also, but the pin spacing is larger. On your one 24v one there are 3 terminals positive, negative & the earth which is the screening. Screening is necessary to reduce RF interference not just pick up from a nearby transmitter but to reduce the amount of radiated RF from the internal inverter that produces the 230v to drive the tube from 24v. There was a thread on the issue of connections here a year ago. As I got it wrong in the first instance I better not give an opinion.

There was a lot more Pig, Wayne & family today & that came over well. The programme was severely padded out with the repeat of the goings on of these of other carriers from yesterday. It seemed very limp trying to stimulate the other couriers to try to bitch about their rivals endeavours. So if I have grasped the purpose of this "war" correctly whoever charges their client the most whilst retaining a 5* feedback wins. Very strange & we have two couriers who don't do anything, but presumable had a quick job done & finished in episode one. Like Wayne I was impressed when his man went down a cul de sac then popped out again having turned around with his long load.

Now I've got everyone excited I better try & find it. It has been in a certain pile on the floor since W&PR but ain't there now. It's there because the shelves are all full (13 x 6ft book cases). But it must be here somewhere!

Well Wayne you have been too modest to ask if anyone watched it. I missed the first 10 mins but I don't think there was anything of yours on then. The focus of this episode seemed to be the bodily decorated couple trying to find a hotel in France late at night there didn't seem to be much about whatever load they were carrying, endless time in a London traffic jam with these racing car things & a poor haulier petrified by his payload of bees. They only gave you a few minutes which seemed rather short changing your fan club. So I don't know whether there is more tomorrow of yours? Didn't fill me with confidence the initial method of loading the Rover. Wayne you came over as very sensible so that's television for you :-D

Neil do you have a DAC? Its just that I have a few DAC EMER mods that would be of interest to an owner. I bought a file of EMER WHEELED VEHICLES N 257 that included some that I hadn't got unfortunately they were not all Humber as a nit-wit had filed in some H 257 which is DAC. I can stick them in an envelope if you like.

Ah just realised who you are So what is to replace Pulse? After our conversation at Warren Piece I bet you are watching carefully to see if a Commander's Wolf turns up :cheesy:

Nigel no your truck retained its identity throughout. 27BT89 was a recommissioned Pig taken on census again without a normal WV contract as it happens it was originally 32BK61. I only mentioned it as I thought it was your Pig at first. Fuel When did the engine last run? What is the state of the fuel going in? Is it old? If you loosen the banjo feed to the carb when you hand prime is their fuel coming up? HT Do the plugs smell of fuel? Is there HT? Disconnect one plug lead fix a new plug to it & turn the engine over is there a spark? Put a bulb test prod at the points with the ignition on, push the points open does it light up & go out or dim when they close? If none of those, take the cover off the ignition coil & check you have 24v on SW with the points open & 12v when one of them is closed. On CB terminal you should have 24v with both points open or 0v when closed. At start up SW should read 24v with points open or closed. CB 24v points open or 0v closed.

Charlie yes well spotted 122 is the wrong, it is incorrect for it to be advertised as Wolf. Wolf is 128, I know there were Maintenance Schedules published in June 1997 & May 1999, no doubt a few more since then.

Charlie if you have the proper clamps for fitting them to the frame of a shelter you will have found they will not grasp the width of the roll cage. I tried various modifications to make the clamps to fit but gave up. In the end I used U bolt clamps for an exhaust. I just clamped two to the roll bar spaced for the holes in the light. Then with the clamps secured used one leg of each clamp to attach to the light using nyloc nuts. In my TUL I had two & in TUM had three. They were just fed in series from the battery via a fuse.

Well done Nigel another one I don't have a picture of 27 BK 89 (although I do have picture of 27 BT 89) 27 BK 89 built as FV1602 Contract 6/V/27210 Engine 8557 Chassis 32789 Delivered 7/1/55 31st B Vehicle Depot Church Broughton Receipt Voucher CBR/R/2764 Conversion to FV1612 1959-60 Conversion to up-armoured “Mk 2” Sept 1972 - June 1973 Sales 5/2/92

I wonder if the tip once housed a leather washer? Maybe this was to seal over a lubrication filling point that was filled on manufacture? Is that metal in the head perhaps lead? So at a major service or refurbishment this could be chiselled out, the bolt undone, lubricant topped up, bolt replaced & small piece of lead hammered into the slot again?

Can you identify the thread? If it is Unified then I don't think it will be from the Great War. Perhaps it is Whitworth? The other thing is the slightly ornate style of the arrow suggests it is of some age. PS The other thing is that having a round head doesn't allow turning, so I assume the inset metal is to block over a screwdriver slot once the bolt has been adjusted. It seems to suggest something artillery or optical to me.

Edd I'm so sorry to read your post. I felt I knew 2E0WKT as we had several conversations on here about Land Rovers, trailers & radio stuff. As a fellow radio amateur I'm very familiar with losing a friend who one has never actually met. Much as on here where you have friends you may never meet. I'm sure finding good homes for his collection must seem a bit daunting, there will be some measure of comfort that what he collected will be preserved & give pleasure to others with similar interests. (Don't worry I'm not trying to make a play for it, I am trying thin out my stuff). Condolences to you & your Mum.

Looks like Wednesday afternoon then:

Boris the designation is "Wheel, steering, 17 in." & uses a "Nut, wing, UNF, 3/8 in. x 24 tpi" Don't know how they are valued in the Champ world but I would have thought £25 plus a little bit more if pristine.

I agree they look Champ. Marked as FV15243 although the ISPL doesn't recognise that & gives it as FV15242. Maybe a typo or the ones you have are a later version?