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10 minutes ago, Gordon_M said:

Interesting cab construction, if a lot of work to pull down and put back after all these years.  The US version of the cab is one welded assembly, which means it maintains a lot of structural strength and you can hack out and replace bits with wondering if it will still fit.

I expected a welded single piece unit as well Gordon,

I wonder if it's a pre-war design feature on Canadian civilian models to allow for construction of perhaps 1 ton panel vans using the same scuttle and front end sheet metal throughout the range ?? .

 Fortunately there are no major repairs needed to the cab main structures, it's just some tin work in various place so it shouldn't need to get hot enough to distort anything. 

I too was wary about removing the hinge pins with the risk of mashing up the door post if they proved stubborn however the door posts are sound and with a little heat and carefully balancing of the weight of the door on the crane they knocked out with no problem but I can see that if the pins are rusted and the knurling is tight in the top of the hinge there could be issues. 

Pete

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Those cabs were always available as kits Pete, since the start of Mound Road production for the 39 series.  You could get a chassis with cowl, windscreen cowl, or cab as I remember, but they would primarily be intended for coach builders to build them up, rather than as a kit for assembly of a cab overseas.

 

I'd guess the cab rear, floor, and windscreen pillar joints were engineered for this series of trucks.

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Left and right fuel tanks and bracketry have been removed along with the chequer plate tank shields a feature of the water tank version of the D15 done to prevent damage to the fuel tanks by the operating crew when filling the water tank. 

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Both tanks seem to be externaly in good condition and both hold a small amount of very smelly old fuel so there is a possibility they made be usable after draining and steam cleaning the issue may be with corroded pick pipes but all that’s for another day.

  The two half of the cab (as described in a previous post) have now been separated and will be lifted off the frame and stored awaiting their turn for repair and then media cleaning.

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During the work to remove the cab bolts it was necessary to remove the rifle butts from the rear corners of the cab floor I assumed that they would be like similar Canadian and British fittings routed out of a solid piece of wood however once the dirt was removed it turns out they are open ended the bottom is closed off with a form of thick rubberized canvas? or perhaps rubberized asbestos? .  They appear to be original and never to have been removed the bases are the same rubberized material that formed the draft seal on the pedals and steering tube.  Small detail but not come across this type of rifle butt holder before,........ has anyone else seen something similar?

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Pete

Edited by Pete Ashby

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It’s been a bit damp of late here in the Wild West so I spent a bit of time on a wet afternoon continuing to strip the Dodge.

The side step brackets are now removed from both sides and in preparation for the removal of the gearbox the prop shaft was removed also the exhaust silencer and pipe taken off to give a bit more room for manoeuvre.

With the cab roof removed and the floor sections split and pushed out of the way there was room to use the crane to remove the gearbox so I left the top of the gear box and shifter stick in position, if this job was to be done with the cab in place the gearbox top and stick would have to be removed, the box supported from below and then lowered away using the trolley jack and cradle.

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The gearbox and PTO safely out on the floor, no nasty surprise here, the splines and flywheel spigot look very clean with no obvious ware so the input shaft was wrapped in a rag and tapped closed to keep the muck and grit out and unit was put aside to be cleaned, stripped and inspected when work on the mechanical units starts.

 

The engagement control for the power pump PTO which is used to fill the water tank is an interesting detail.  The engagement control is a small handle underneath the right hand dash board all very civilized and neat instead of a leaver sticking up out of the floor.

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 The handle is connected via a solid wire running in an armoured cable to the PTO so that by pushing the handle in the PTO dog is engaged with the truck gear box. 

 The truck RPM is automatically limited on the carburetor via another cable attached to the same fulcrum lever on the PTO  this is so that the power pump cannot be over speeded and damaged.   I wonder do British water trucks have a similar operating mechanism that limits engine speed?. 

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Sadly the power pump and limiter on the carb are missing from this truck but all the operating cables are intact and in good condition so who knows?  One day I may find the power pump drive shaft and carb limiter.

With the gearbox out the next job was to remove the steering column from the frame and then take off the last of the body brackets so that the scuttle could be moved back from the engine and laid flat on the frame along with the cab back and roof sections.   These three units will be lifted off the frame and stored awaiting their turn for repair.  So after all that and several mugs of tea the truck now looks like this:

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The next task will be to strip the engine of all its ancillary units prior to lifting out of the frame.

Pete

 

 

Edited by Pete Ashby
missing photo and cut and past nonsense

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Hi Pete,

I am currently in the process of restoring a Dodge T110L, I have ended up importing a replacement engine from the states, (unfortunately this also requires rebuilding but that's another story) this engine had some sort of governor on the carb which may be what you are missing, I will take Some photos over the next couple of weeks and post on here.

Kevin

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Hello Kevin the T110L project sounds very interesting are you going to run a blog on it here on HMVF ? a lot of people would be interested in following it.

The governor sounds interesting I'd very much like to see some photos of it and indeed the whole truck if that's possible.

where in the world are you by the way ?

regards

Pete 

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Hi Pete, I am in Suffolk, I may put some pics and details on a blog.

The replacement engine came out of a Fire engine complete with the manifolds and ancillaries, I am in the process of rebuilding the engine at the moment, I will try and get the pictures next weekend if all goes to plan.

Kevin

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Hi Pete, attached are some pictures of the governor which I have removed from the manifold today, this engine came out of a fire engine hence a governor being fitted, it is adjustable to suit what revs are needed so presumably would suit your application. The other pictures are of my truck as found and in a state of repair, Howard Wade has carried out the strip down and blasting so far, I am in the process of rebuilding the engine and I will be carrying out what repairs I can do at home, for example making the missing hip ring replacing the scuttle vent and refurbishing the springs etc I am hoping to have a rolling chassis complete with engine in the new year, it's a slow process as I have limited time available. I will also need to make a rear body of some description and find a rear tow hitch assembly (or at least the chassis brackets).

Kevin

 

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Hi Pete, I have just been reading through the manual for the truck, it would seem that the governor I have limits the maximum revs

Kevin

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1 hour ago, 253cmg said:

Hi Pete, I have just been reading through the manual for the truck, it would seem that the governor I have limits the maximum revs

Kevin

Hi Kevin,

When I had my Bedford QL straight from the Danish army, it had one of those same carburettors (Carter?) on it with the same pattern of Vari-Speed governer. The carb must have been for a Chevrolet engine as it had that on the side plate of the governer. They are basically set to limit your road speed in top gear to a desired amount.

regards, Richard

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Nice project Kevin thanks for posting the photos I'm sure I and others would like to hear a bit more about the history of the truck and follow the your progress have you considered starting a blog on HMVF?. 

Not too many T110L around in fact I can't think of a restored one in the UK, at one time there were a couple of short wheel base tippers and a short wheel base GS but I've not seen or heard of them for some years now. Looking at the photos of your engine It looks like you have the original long block engine,  have you found a source of spares for long block engines?   Although some parts are interchangeable with the US short block version some major components are unique to the long block and finding a parts source has been somewhat elusive to date for certain items.

The governor you show in your photos is for regulating maximum road speed and works on limiting the throttle plate opening using the dynamic air flow in the throttle body working against a preset spring tension it's a common fitting on the larger North American trucks of the period.   The mechanism on the D15T is a manually operated system via a cable quite how it works or what it looks like currently remains a mystery as the truck is not governed for road speed in any way.  

Regards

Pete

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Hi Pete,

If I get a chance I will start a blog for people to see.

Regards engine, yes it's the original 'long block' type but not the original engine, the original engine was not in the best of shape, the original was a T115, the one I am rebuilding is a T118, I have sourced the parts from the states without too much hassle, however I want a rebuild kit for the fuel pump but as yet I have been unable to source one but I can get a new one, so somebody must be producing parts for them.

best regards Kevin

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Heard about this D15 a lot, good to see you're tackling the job of restoring it Pete.

Following this with interest!

 

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Thanks Hanno yes finally got round to starting the restoration after having the truck in store for ten years it should be worth the wait as it's not been messed about with too much.

Pete

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Hi Pete, 

I  have this original Sept 1943 Chrysler Corporation of Canada "Operating and Spare Parts Manual 200 Gal. Water Tank Mounted on Dodge T222 4x2 Chassis".

Do you have one?

If you are interested please pm me. 

 

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Work continued removing the engine ancillaries 

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There then followed a slight hiatus involving an epic struggle to remove the exhaust manifold the problem was that at some stage in the engines life two manifold to block bolts had been replaced with the wrong type and had become welded in place, worst still the differential expansion again from the use of wrong bolts and nuts had cracked the outlet flange:(  not good news and a real shame as everything else to date has been in good condition the hunt is now on for a replacement long block (25") right hand drive exhaust manifold...... watch this space. 

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The next task was lift the engine out of the frame

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Next job will be to remove the front and rear axles. 

Pete

Edited by Pete Ashby
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Found some time this week to do a bit more on the D15T . 

 Last bits and bobs to clear the frame included the removal of the main wiring harness which has been stored away ready to make a new copy and then the removal of all the original brake piping from the frame each pipe run was photographed, removed and marked up to be used as patterns for new piping when the time comes.

Main wiring harness and brake pipes to left front

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Main junction for brake pipes front and rear

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Brake pipe flex to rear axle 

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Next was the removal of the front axle and springs, the weight of the frame was held on the crane so that the shackle and anchor pins could be knocked out using a brass drift, this can sometimes be a real struggle involving the hot spanner however all the pins tapped out easily. There is no sign of ware either in the pins or the spring eye bushes this helps to confirm my previous assumption that the truck has seen comparatively little use and had been well maintained.  The pins and the shackles were put into separate marked up pots for left and right hand sets so that the same pins go back into the same bushes on reassembly.

Slotted nuts and split pins removed ready for drifting out with a brass drift

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Pins on the move

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Axle out and frame held on the crane

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With the front axle free from the frame the springs were removed again marked for left and right hand fitting for now with a splash of paint but will be punch marked before disassembly and cleaning.

 

 

The frame was lowered onto a trestle and the same procedure using the crane was used to remove the rear axle and springs the only difference being the rear front spring eye pins are blind fitted and cannot be drifted out from the rear the workshop manual quotes a ‘special drawing tool’ that screws into the pin after the grease nipple is removed, I made my own from a piece of scaff tube a length of UNF threaded bar a nut and a washer  as with the front everything came apart easily with no need for additional heat and no ware on the pins or bushes.

Home made tool for drawing blind pins the grease nipple is removed and the threaded bar screws in it's place by tightening the nut at the other end the pin is drawn out of the bush into the scaff tube.

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Rear axle and springs removed from frame

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The bare frame was then lowered onto another trestle, the last job will be to remove the pintal hook, spring and mounting brackets then stack the frame against the workshop wall ready for media blasting and painting in the New Year.  Meanwhile effort will now be directed towards getting the Leyland Retriever rear axle cleaned, inspected, painted and installed.

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Pete

 

Edited by Pete Ashby
removal of random photo from the bottom of the thread
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Oh to have a nice workshop like yours with space!

I notice that you still have the original towing hook assembly, is there any chance that at some point you could forward some measurements /details of the mounting brackets and spring so that I can replicate one for my truck?

best regards Kevin

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Hello Kevin, yes I am lucky to have the space to work it's one of the reasons we moved west but it is a truism that no matter how much space you have there's never quite enough room for that next project.   I'm always in awe of people who turn out really high class work working under a sheet outside all power to them.

Not a problem regarding the towing kit when I take the hook, spring and brackets off I'll send you a set of photos with measurements by PM OK?

regards

Pete 

Edited by Pete Ashby

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Looking forward to pictures of the brake drums, front and rear, to compare to the CMP and the guts behind the brake drum.

 

Bob Carriere

Hammond Barn.

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OK Bob I'll post them here for you it will be a couple of weeks until I finish the work on the Leyland Retriever rear bogie.

Then I'll turn my attention back to the Dodge,  the plan is to get all the big lumps ready for the media blaster so that by the end of the summer the frame and fittings will cleaned undercoated and refitted, not ideal working on two project at once but time waits for no man as the old saying goes .

Pete

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Posted (edited)

Time for an update on the D15T .  The aim for this sub project is to get the frame, associated brackets rear axle case, front axle beam, brake drums and wheels blast cleaned primed and ready for reassembly. 

So the first step was to move the frame out of the workshop and round to the barn ready for the blast cleaner to come and do his stuff here it is strapped onto my WW2 Canadian 8cwt trailer it has the reversible hitch and the CMP Ford master cylinder to activate the over run brakes , this is another project in the waiting room, the frame and running gear are good but the steel body has been added at some later date the original was wooden at the moment it does stealing service carrying fire wood in from the fields and other fetch and carry jobs around the place

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Next job was to ready the rear axle for blast cleaning, I am not going to blast the springs I know some people do but I prefer to clean them using the wire wheel on the angle grinder.

Photo showing the location and orientation of the shock absorber mount on the rear axle 

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The nuts on the U bolts needed a bit of the hot spanner and impact gun to get them moving once all off the nuts were put back on a full nut depth and the U bolts drifted out using a brass drift and hammer

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Pete

 

Edited by Pete Ashby
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