BenHawkins Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 I didn't get it to follow the line exactly so finished it off with the belt sander. Before repeating the procedure for the other line. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Moving on to the exhaust. The middle section goes from the exhaust bracket to the silencer so is a simple straight length of pipe with one of the cast iron flanges made previously fitted to one end. I think these were originally just riveted on but I thought I would silver solder it on as well. I had two attempts at warming it up and don't think I left much clearance so failed to get the silver solder to flow. I then could not get the flange off the pipe so decided I would just proceed with the riveting, starting with drilling holes 180 degrees opposed. To support the rivet on the inside I used a ball nose slot drill to put a dimple into a piece of steel bar. With the help of the glamorous assistant to hold the pipe in position I was able to form the head with the aid of the appropriate snap and a hammer. Finished item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Asciidv Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 I am just trying to work out what new toy you have on your sack barrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 4 minutes ago, Asciidv said: I am just trying to work out what new toy you have on your sack barrow! A ceramic chip gas forge; hopefully get that up and running one day. Could be quite useful for the ironwork on the 1908 Dennis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 I checked the angle required for the 1/2" OD radiator overflow pipe then used these pipe benders to put a 65 degree bend in it. After trimming the pipe to suit and soldering the nipple on to the end it was fitted to the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 I had a similar type of Enots petrol filter with a filter element to copy. I turned the brass carrier, put slots in the top and milled a hexagon on the bottom before sawing it from the bar end. It was then a case of cutting a piece of brass mesh and soldering it onto the carrier with a soldering iron. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 The element then screws onto the tap. The bowl was fitted and the tap removed. The needle and shaft were cleaned up with some emery cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 Pieces of gland packing material were cut to length. These were inserted around the tap spindle. The gland nut was tightened and some solder nipples and 3/8BSP nuts were found to fit the inlet and outlet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 As with the rest of the engine the carburettor has been painted with Hammerite type silver paint. Most of it fell of reasonably easily but the texture in the top of the float bowl allowed it to bond fairly well. So I poured some cellulose thinners into the casting and picked the paint out with a scriber before applying some Brasso with a toothbrush. The weights and needle are in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 The float also appeared to be in good condition. The carburettor has a water channel through the casting to allow it to be heated by including it in the radiator circuit. The banjos and bolts were removed and a small amount of rusty deposit removed. The choke spindle is bent and one of the rivets missing so I cut the head off the remaining one so it could be removed. for straightening and drilling out the broken rivet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 11, 2018 Author Share Posted February 11, 2018 The carburettor jet requires a screwdriver bigger than the ones in my collection to remove so I need to remedy that this week. The petrol inlet fitting looked like 3/8 BSP but when I tried a nut, it went on but did not feel like a good fit. Measuring the thread it is 5/8" OD x 18 TPI Whitworth form so I need to make a nut to fit. That is as far as I got with the carburettor this week. I did fit the gland packing to the Rolls-Royce 20/25 pump but have also purchased another type of pump from Australia that I hope will be a better fit in the available space. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 I had to improvise a large screwdriver for the carburettor jet. It was quite tight but now it is out and can be cleaned. As can the adjustment screw. Many of the carburettor parts have been scrubbed clean. The levers are very tight on the spindle so I might just leave them in place as there is nothing obviously wrong with that section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 It turned out nobody could bend the exhaust pipe the way I needed it as the bends were too close together. So I trimmed some bent pieces of pipe to length. Then tacked them together with my MIG welder. After checking it fitted together I welded between the tacks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 I cleaned back the welds with a flap disc fitted to an angle grinder. Then put the pipe back in position. The flange was bolted up and the pipe pushed fully home. I was then able to drill through three of the holes for the rivets. Unfortunately the rivets I have in stock are not quite long enough for the application. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 The magneto is missing both its aluminium flip top covers. The large one is broken and the small one was completely missing. I started by roughly making a piece of aluminium the correct shape on the milling machine. Then tidying it up with a file and emery cloth. It turned out my sketch was not quite right so I had to mill some more away and file some material from the hinge section. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 I have good results in cleaning brass parts without scratching them by putting them in an mixture of vinigar and salt. It even bites off green oxydation but doesn't damage good brass. But you have to keep an eye on the process and pick the parts out of the solution when ready. And wash them in water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 On 19/02/2018 at 7:29 AM, Citroman said: I have good results in cleaning brass parts without scratching them by putting them in an mixture of vinigar and salt. It even bites off green oxydation but doesn't damage good brass. But you have to keep an eye on the process and pick the parts out of the solution when ready. And wash them in water. This sounds like a good method; I will have to give it a go. I can understand the acidic nature of the vinegar but what does the salt do? Is it just an abrasive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 I have started making the doors; the first stage was to cut some lengths of 1-3/4" ash to length and cut half lap joints at each end. They were screwed together and fixed to a piece of plywood. After scribing the angle I needed for the back edge of the door I planed it fairly close to that line. And took it back to the line with a belt sander. I don't know if the doors were originally skinned with ply but as it is in the Pheil, Stedall and Son coachbuilders ironmongery catalogue of ca. 1905 I thought it would be the easy solution. The alternative would have been 1/4" or 5/16" mahogany. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 I am making an effort to fit things to the lorry so I no longer fall over them! As the weather was OK and I could roll it out of the garage I decided to try a first fitting of the angle arch on the back of the cab. I had left the vertical steel straps too long so I marked where they needed cutting, levered them away from the paintwork and trimmed them with the angle grinder. I then marked out the holes, drilled the angle arch and fitted it centred on the cab. And then marked where I needed to cut the ends off before removing it for trimming and further painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 I drilled the new false frame to fit the Enots petrol filter-tap. And then bent some 5/16 copper pipe to link the tank to the filter. Before cleaning the ends and assembling them with silver solder flux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted February 25, 2018 Author Share Posted February 25, 2018 The first nipple was then silver soldered to the end of the pipe. And I remembered to fit both nuts the correct way around before silver soldering the nipple on the other end of the pipe! The pipe was then given a clean. Before the pipe was fitted to the filter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Citroman Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 (edited) The salt has to be dissolved in the vinigar. After that you put the brass in and see the oxydation being eaten away in bubbles. (i dont know the mixture) I did put about 2 spoons in 250cc of vinigar. The brass looks like red copper as it comes out but a quick clean with brasso makes it nice golden again. This week i cleaned an old art deco lamp that someone had hanging outside. The parts were about 15 miniutes in the solution, than rinced under a running tap, dried and polished on the polishing wheel, shiny like new... Good luck. Edited February 25, 2018 by Citroman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 I blasted the exhaust pipe. And then gave it a coat of high temperature paint. And then we could bolt it into position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 The second cover for the magneto was snapped into two pieces so I glued it together and had the foundry cast another one from it. Then it was just a case of machining, polishing and fitting it. The high tension cables were carried across the top of the engine in a red vulcanised fibre tube. The original has one end broken off, is bent and quite fragile. I could not find anyone still manufacturing such tube so I resorted to the nearest match; Tufnol Kite (a thermoset resin composite). This is quite easy to machine so I replicated the 3/8" holes and slot. I will give it a coat of red oxide primer so it is closer to the original colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenHawkins Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 I was not completely happy with the Rolls Royce water pump so I have purchased this "new old stock" belt drive coolant pump. The angle iron arch has been painted and refitted. And finally for this week I have cut the inner door skins. I decided to include a door pocket. We have withdrawn our Brighton run application; I was struggling to find anyone who wanted to transport it down to London on a bank holiday weekend and I seem to be adding jobs to the list as quickly as I am crossing them off. New target is 4th June. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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