Jump to content

Rubery Owen Brockhouse 2 Ton Four Wheel Stores Trailer HELP?!?


Recommended Posts

Hello Gents (and Ladies),

Ive got a Rubery Owen 2ton stores trailer thats been converted to be a living van.

 

Ive had it for a few years now and its served me well travelling all over the country behind the tractors but its now about to go behind wagons and im getting fed up of being dripped on in my sleep so ive got some questions for the more knowledgable amoungst us.

 

Firstly id like details on the factory braking system so i can reinstate the air brake system. Any workshop manuals, pictures etc welcome!

 

Secondly wheel bearings etc, ive got a wheel with a slight wobble on the rear right so would like to replace the bearing. Where can i get them and any info on how to change them greatly appreciated!

 

Finally the sodding roof vents... theyve rusted on the inside allowing them to drip so i would either like to replace like for like or upgrade to better ones with more ventilation. Any suggestions or thoughts?

 

Heres some pics so you know what it looks like:

44389_10150268257950385_815930_n.jpg

 

34099_10150241882415385_6100370_n.jpg

7454_10152947661720385_1065808150_n.jpg

267545_10150710930580385_8184943_n.jpg

376514_10151028453630385_1272892981_n.jpg

947098_10152856488735385_415534220_n.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nick, your trailer should be full air over a rod system on the rear and air over hydraulic on the front.

i had mine fully to bits this past year to overhaul brakes etc, I see you are missing the fluid reservoir on the front nearside.

wheel bearings are all taper and adjustable if they are sound.

i have seen many people give up with the hydraulic front brakes and only run the rears as a much easier route when things go wrong!

Perhaps open up all the wheel stations and see , if mine was anything to go by everything was seized fron sitting, all just needed stripping out de seizing, hone the cylinders and reassemble with rubber grease, that did the trick, although I bet that was a days work per drum on the fronts.

i have somewhere a pair of new roof vents I think the advert with pictures may still be on the classifieds here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the reply John i will try to dig out the advert.

What do the rear brakes need to work?

The front has been "converted" to an over-run hydraulic system which currently doesnt work but i wouldnt mind retaining it for use behind the tractors then having the air back axle for behind the wagons.

I will try and strip the rear right down and check the bearing out.

thanks for your help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry - did I miss something? Was there anything else in the pics other than the tractors?:wow: Got to love a County!

I have no clue as to the type of vent currently fitted to your roof but may I suggest boat type 'mushroom' vents. They can be opened and closed from the inside and when closed they seal water tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice pair of tractors, is the County a 954 or 1004?

 

its a 1966 954 Super 6 (no strengthening bars above the axle)

thanks for the compliments guys

 

i think the mushroom style is a good suggestion, saw some with a solar powered extractor fans in which would be ideal for show accomidation thats parked in a field 6 months of the year doing nowt lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....I think the mushroom style is a good suggestion, saw some with a solar powered extractor fans in which would be ideal for show accomidation thats parked in a field 6 months of the year doing nowt lol

 

Good idea, Calamity!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

NRS91, I'm trying to set up a braking system on my trailer exactly how yours is, I know its a bit of a cheek to ask but have you any close up photos of your draw bar so I can see what sits behind the overrun damper, is it hydraulic to brake the front wheels only or have you managed to get all the wheels braking some how, any help on this would be much appreciated.

 I have a 1975 Seddon tractor unit which I can tow it with on a fully air operated system which I want to keep, but I also want to be able to move it about and obviously brake with my 110 Defender without messing about the standard braking system of the trailer

                 many thanks Steve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, stevebus said:

NRS91, I'm trying to set up a braking system on my trailer exactly how yours is, I know its a bit of a cheek to ask but have you any close up photos of your draw bar so I can see what sits behind the overrun damper, is it hydraulic to brake the front wheels only or have you managed to get all the wheels braking some how, any help on this would be much appreciated.

 I have a 1975 Seddon tractor unit which I can tow it with on a fully air operated system which I want to keep, but I also want to be able to move it about and obviously brake with my 110 Defender without messing about the standard braking system of the trailer

                 many thanks Steve

Hi Steve,
Long story short my advice is don't change the brake system!!

My living van was modified from standard specification by the previous owner, it had a hitch (poorly) welded on and a master cylinder bolted to a bit of angle iron and bolted to the drawbar... this was pushing fluid into the reservoir port of the air over hydraulic master cylinder so probably didn't do anything useful.

For my use behind tractors it was fine as long as you stopped carefully, behind Scammells and ERFs you didnt know it was there.
That being said I was stopped for an inspection and the living van has now got a GV9 prohibition on it because the brake system has been modified from standard spec and only braked on the front axle.
So I am looking for the parts to put my living van back to standard spec and get the GV9 lifted so it can be used again.

As for towing behind a land rover 110, its fine for shunting even without brakes but much above 25-30mph the living van tries to push the 110 side to side in and disconcerting fashion, so I would advise against that too!

Sorry this isnt the reply you were looking for but after spending a lot of time and money fixing the damp/leaks and re-insulating my living van I now cant take it anywhere and I wouldnt want another enthusiast to have the same issues.


Thanks
Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nick thanks for the reply, like you say, probably not what I wanted to hear but I will definitely take on board what you have said.

To keep it short I lived abroad for 20 years until 5 years ago, a class 1 HGV driver but when I applied for my UK licence back the DVLA had lost all my vocational entitlements which you can imagine left me right in the pony  regarding my living arrangements, I have since had to retake my class 2 just to keep working at £1300 and in time will have to resit my class 1 at another £1300 and a week off work and unfortunately the farm where I live at the moment I have to be off in July and cant legally tow the trailer with the Seddon due to my licence entitlements.

I havn,t towed the trailer yet with the Landy because I havn,t had to, but can I understand that what your saying is the 110 will tow the trailer as long as I don't drive like a twat? and no hard braking for obvious reasons.

Like I said my standard braking system is completely up and together other than a smashed fluid reservoir at this moment which is only a question of replacing and re bleeding,  I did see in your first post you where looking for photos and bits of info on the original system, I don't know where you are in the country but you are more than welcome to come down to Kent nr Canterbury and take as many photos do drawings and anything else you need to do to get yours off that sodding GV9, I'm sure the wife will cook you a bite to eat if you have to come far and bring a tent if you don't want to drive back, the farmer here is pretty accommodating.

all the best, Steve 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, stevebus said:

Nick thanks for the reply, like you say, probably not what I wanted to hear but I will definitely take on board what you have said.

To keep it short I lived abroad for 20 years until 5 years ago, a class 1 HGV driver but when I applied for my UK licence back the DVLA had lost all my vocational entitlements which you can imagine left me right in the pony  regarding my living arrangements, I have since had to retake my class 2 just to keep working at £1300 and in time will have to resit my class 1 at another £1300 and a week off work and unfortunately the farm where I live at the moment I have to be off in July and cant legally tow the trailer with the Seddon due to my licence entitlements.

I havn,t towed the trailer yet with the Landy because I havn,t had to, but can I understand that what your saying is the 110 will tow the trailer as long as I don't drive like a twat? and no hard braking for obvious reasons.

Like I said my standard braking system is completely up and together other than a smashed fluid reservoir at this moment which is only a question of replacing and re bleeding,  I did see in your first post you where looking for photos and bits of info on the original system, I don't know where you are in the country but you are more than welcome to come down to Kent nr Canterbury and take as many photos do drawings and anything else you need to do to get yours off that sodding GV9, I'm sure the wife will cook you a bite to eat if you have to come far and bring a tent if you don't want to drive back, the farmer here is pretty accommodating.

all the best, Steve 

 

Hi Steve,
The Rubery Owen trailers are plated to 5.5ton I believe (after my little road side chat) so without some paperwork and a DVSA headache it wouldn't be legal to tow behind the 110 either unfortunately. The 110 is capable of pulling the weight its just stopping it and controlling it. I have had mine up to 30mph behind my 90 and my 110 and these trailers like to wander behind the tow vehicle but the Land Rover isn't heavy enough to let it wander so the trailer makes the back of the Land Rover wander, not a nice feeling!
If you just need to move it once for a short distance then borrow a tractor, more controlled and within your licence entitlements.
I am based near Manchester so that would be a long haul for me! But thanks for the offer I will bare it in mind if im down that way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
17 hours ago, Paul military trailer said:

Hi fellers I’ve bought a Rubery  trailer ,I have a 7.5 ton fire truck to pull it ,however sane issue with the brakes ,I’m guessing from what I’ve read both axels must be braked to be legal ? Regards Paul in Ripponden 

My Rubery Owen had an overnight stay at her majesty's pleasure a few years ago because my front axle was unbraked, I had to go back and collect it the following day with the lowloader.

Basically the C&U regs say all wheels must be braked and all brakes must work to the required standard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok Lance thankyou ,I guessed as much ,just needed to know for sure ,lots work ahead ! Can you tell me the original spec of the tyres ,as I’m not sure what I have are original s ,I wanted to fit military off road tyres ,yet I know from my previous 4x4 off road tyres aren’t road legal ,yet I guess some old army trucks are different in terms of off road tyre regs ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Paul military trailer said:

Ok Lance thankyou ,I guessed as much ,just needed to know for sure ,lots work ahead ! Can you tell me the original spec of the tyres ,as I’m not sure what I have are original s ,I wanted to fit military off road tyres ,yet I know from my previous 4x4 off road tyres aren’t road legal ,yet I guess some old army trucks are different in terms of off road tyre regs ?

they use 8.25x16 tyres on split rims but im looking to convert mine to modern tubeless

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Paul military trailer said:

So I’m guess they don’t need to be original like the brakes ,I’ve seen some non directional military tyres that would look great and suit her but are they legal ,I know I can’t put off road tyres on , just want lots of tread but legal offcourse 

They allow you to modernise but needs to be within 10% of the rolling diameter from memory and equal or greater weight and speed rating

58 minutes ago, Paul military trailer said:

Also I’m not sure if I have s cam and wedge brakes or s cam and girling brakes ? Could you advise please ?

The rear has rods actuated by a T-16 brake chamber that pull wedges which push rollers out to expand the shoes, the front is the same but has small hydraulic slaves doing the pulling (these are actuated by a master cylinder which is pressurised by a T-16 brake chamber)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Morning all,

I'm considering one of these trailers to go behind our Pioneer, and found this thread.

I just wanted to ask what the internal dimensions are of these trailers if one of the owners here would be so kind. Also presumably the body comprises a framework, with sheet cladding on the outside and some sort of panelling on the inside? So it would be possible to insulate between the two skins?

Many thanks. Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Richard, I might be able to measure my Rubery Owen field office trailer this weekend. It's the later wide track type like the one in the original post, but with windows.

Steel frame, steel sheet cladding on the outside, hardboard panelling on the inside and as I recall either insulated between or certainly space for insulation.

You're not too far from me so could come and have a look if you want to for reference, though it is full of junk at the moment.

Edited by Sean N
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Scammell4199 said:

So it would be possible to insulate between the two skins?

Mine was manufactured already insulated with fibre glass wool. If you tell me the exact description of the trailer I may well have the full FVRDE Spec.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Scammell4199 said:

I didn't realise there was a wide track and presumably a narrow track version. Do they both look the same with the mudguards etc?

There were two different generations of these style of trailer. The earlier ones had a narrower track and don't have the wheel arch extensions / mudguards; the arches are flush with the body.

 

2 hours ago, fv1609 said:

Mine was manufactured already insulated with fibre glass wool. If you tell me the exact description of the trailer I may well have the full FVRDE Spec.

Clive, I think my office trailer has rockwool insulation as well, but I couldn't remember and wasn't sure if all box body types had it, so didn't want to say definitively.

Mine is Office, Trailer Mounted, 2 ton 4 wheeled Rubery Owen contract WV5478, code no. 6240-0735, CES P/33918/4. The body is FV605923 (and it's had the first five mod strikes applied!). Can't remember the trailer FV number - 2505?

Keeping in the theme of this thread I'm still looking for front axle brakes for mine - it's all original, as it came straight from MoD, but the brakes had been cannibalised so I've got nothing inside the drums!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...