dave432 Posted March 25, 2009 Posted March 25, 2009 I have a little problem with the wireing on my 432 , firstly i know the pack is ok....thank god !!! when i try to start the vehicle ,bat isolator on ,lights on dash come on and fuel guage oporates temperature gauge goes off the scale ..to hot ,though engine cold ! next when gen switch thrown the two push to test lamps do not glow ...new bulbs though so that not an option,also fuel pump not running .....though i have tested it and it works ok. next through the start switch ,the engine turns.....sometimes.!.! help .... fed up with my hot wire and would love to start the vehicle properly Quote
ferretfixer Posted March 26, 2009 Posted March 26, 2009 I have a little problem with the wireing on my 432 ,firstly i know the pack is ok....thank god !!! when i try to start the vehicle ,bat isolator on ,lights on dash come on and fuel guage oporates temperature gauge goes off the scale ..to hot ,though engine cold ! next when gen switch thrown the two push to test lamps do not glow ...new bulbs though so that not an option,also fuel pump not running .....though i have tested it and it works ok. next through the start switch ,the engine turns.....sometimes.!.! help .... fed up with my hot wire and would love to start the vehicle properly Though obviously not conclusive. The gauge going 'off the clock' is usually indicative of a short circuit to earth. If you have a Manual, all you can really do is labourously go through the wiring circuit with a test lamp. Start at the item it goes to, & work your way back to source (+) at each juction. In theory, the lamp should light each time you check. As soon as it doesnt, there is your break/ short. from where it doesnt light, try other wire at that point. If it lights from there to another place, than that is where the 'Juice' is going to. :??? I am not a Vehicle Sparkey, but I have done a lot of electrical fault finding myself when one was not avilable at unit. By doing the above sequence. It takes time, but you might be lucky & find it within half an hour. I would imagine, that if you cannot reach all the wiring prior to discovering the fault, it's 'Pack out' Time & you should then be able to get to EVERYTHING! :-D When the pack is out of the vehicle, if you get the pack to face the front of the veh in front of the steering hatch. You CAN re-connect all cables to the pannel on the pack. This is done so you can start the pack out of the vehicle to test systems to check for leaks, correct function Etc. WARNING: Do NOT run for more than 15 Mins. or Pack will seize!! :stop: Pack out is obviosly a last resort. But, if you cannot get to all cables & juctions.....you have no choice! I wish you luck. It would be nice to know for all other 432 Series owners to know the outcome of your labours! :yay: Mike. Quote
sirhc Posted March 26, 2009 Posted March 26, 2009 WARNING: Do NOT run for more than 15 Mins. or Pack will seize!! :stop: How can this be true Mike? All the services are still connected when it's out of the vehicle, there is no seperate oil circuit which needs connecting etc. I have a lot of 432 manuals and even the SEME pack lift instructional video and I have never seen any mention of the 15 min rule you mention? :??? Chris Quote
Grumpy Posted March 26, 2009 Posted March 26, 2009 How can this be true Mike? All the services are still connected when it's out of the vehicle, there is no seperate oil circuit which needs connecting etc. I have a lot of 432 manuals and even the SEME pack lift instructional video and I have never seen any mention of the 15 min rule you mention? :??? Chris Only thing I can think of is you are not drawing any air through the radiator with the pack out?:nono: Quote
sirhc Posted March 26, 2009 Posted March 26, 2009 Yes, that's the only thing I can think of, but in a 432 it takes a while for the fans to come on. It wouldn't automatically sieze after 15 mins running even if that was the case? Quote
ferretfixer Posted March 26, 2009 Posted March 26, 2009 How can this be true Mike? All the services are still connected when it's out of the vehicle, there is no seperate oil circuit which needs connecting etc. I have a lot of 432 manuals and even the SEME pack lift instructional video and I have never seen any mention of the 15 min rule you mention? :??? Chris Having spent my last six months in the 430 bay before remustering as an Armourer. I attest that I was truly sick of the sight of 432's & pack lifts. :-( I have personally been involved (Minimum of two people) with many pack lifts using the 434 Hiab. There is a frame you bolt to the top of the pack. five engine frame mounting bolts out, disconect prop shaft from steering unit. all cables from interior front pannel, exhaust pipe interior two clamps & exhaust belows. fuel feed pipe is on front pannel also if i remember correctly. lift out pack, rotate 180 degrees, drop pack. connect all cables/ pipes to front pannel & run up engine. WEAR EAR DEFENDERS = ENGINE NOISE LOUD WITH EXHUST DISCONNECTED! we were always taught NEVER to run pack for more than 15 mins. Something to do with pressure oil feed to gearbox? i THINK, because you put the gearbox transfer lever into NEUTRAL when run out of the vehicle, There is no pressure feed out of it & it fills up & causes big trouble. Why would the Army teach us this rule if it meant nothing?? :nono: Dont forget I last did pack changes in 1979!! :??? Mike. :coffee: Quote
ferretfixer Posted March 26, 2009 Posted March 26, 2009 ADD ON: It's better to be safe than sorry (And out of pocket with a lot of expensive parts to buy!) Mike. Quote
DaveP Posted March 28, 2009 Posted March 28, 2009 Quote taken from a SEME Bordon literature dated 1990:coffee:--When running pack up outside vehicle,always have transfer box disconnecter engaged and remove prop,with it disengaged only safe to run for 3 mins:nono: due to build up of oil in t/box,I think this is where you re coming from. In the late 60,s/early 70,s we used to run these things up for ages to get the temps up especially if you had fitted and were testing a new g/box on a rig,happy days?:cool2: On your problem ,check the simple obvious things first,circuit breakers/fuses, loose or disconnected wires etc after that it,s like Mike says go through with a cicuit tester. Any probs give me a call 07711245690 I have got some SEME fault finding literarure which has helped me in the past good luck DaveP Quote
ferretfixer Posted March 28, 2009 Posted March 28, 2009 Quote taken from a SEME Bordon literature dated 1990:coffee:--When running pack up outside vehicle,always have transfer box disconnecter engaged and remove prop,with it disengaged only safe to run for 3 mins:nono: due to build up of oil in t/box,I think this is where you re coming from.In the late 60,s/early 70,s we used to run these things up for ages to get the temps up especially if you had fitted and were testing a new g/box on a rig,happy days?:cool2: On your problem ,check the simple obvious things first,circuit breakers/fuses, loose or disconnected wires etc after that it,s like Mike says go through with a cicuit tester. Any probs give me a call 07711245690 I have got some SEME fault finding literarure which has helped me in the past good luck DaveP WELL DONE DAVE, THAT RINGS A BELL! :idea: iT'S BEEN 32 YEARS SINCE I DID A PACK LIFT & ASSOCIATED REMOTE TESTS! :confused: I KNEW THERE WAS SOMETHING OIL/ PRESSURE RELATED THAT WAS VITAL TO INISTIATE BEFORE RUNNING UP. THE THING ABOUT THE 430 SERIES IS, THEY ARE PRETTY RELIABLE IF YOU RUN THE VEHICLE REGULARLY. HOWEVER, IN PRACTICE, THE VEHICLE SIT OUTSIDE MAINLY ON THE VEHICLE PARK FOR MONTHS AT AN END. WHEN IT COMES TO A MAJOR EXCERCISE, THEY ARE CONSTANLY FAILING OVER THE FIRST WEEK. THE AMOUNT OF CASUALTIES TO BE RECOVERED & REPAIRED IS A FAIR FEW. AFTER A WEEK WHEN ALL HAS BEEN RECTIFIED. GENERALY THEY ARE OK FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE TIME. NORMALLY ANOTHER TWO WEEKS WORKING EVERY DAY. WHAT THE MAIN PROBLEM IS GENERALLY, HOSES GO HARD & SPLIT OR LEAK & NEED RE-TIGHTENING. SOMETIMES YOU CAN GET AT THEM, SOMETIMES IT'S PACK OUT TO GET AT THE OFFENDOING ARTICLE. THERE IS A HEAT EXCHANGER IN THE COOLING CIRCUIT & THAT WORKS VERY HARD INDEED!. STARTER MOTORS GO OCCASIONALY. I AM NOT SUPRISED AT ANY COMPONANT FAILURE IN THE ENGINE BAY. THE TEMPERITURES IN THERE GET UNBELIEVABLY HOT, EVEN WITH THE FANS RUNNING. WE USED TO RIDE ON THE ENGINE LOUVERES IN NOVEMBER TO KEEP WARM! TOTALY VERBOTEN NOW, HEALTH & SAFETY STICKING THIER NOSES IN AGAIN! IF WORKING ON A STEERING BOX AT ALL. WAIT UNTILL IT COOLS RIGHT OFF (24 HOURS) THE TEMPS IN THER ALSO ARE UNBELIVEABLE. YOU COULD FRY AN EGG ON THE TOP OF THE BOX IN A MESS TIN EASY! :cool2: GOOD LUCK. Quote
Richard Farrant Posted March 28, 2009 Posted March 28, 2009 To add to this, about the Transfer box disconnect........it could be used separate the engine from transmission to make starting easier in cold weather. But....as has already been mentioned, Maximum running time is 3 minutes with it disconnected, due to build up of oil in the transfer box. Quote
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