question Voltage Stabiliser ?

[Mark]

Hi All

 

WHERE would I find a voltage stabiliser on a Lightweight Land rover please and what does it look like, have not got a clue ?

 

Many thanks for your forth coming answers. :-D

[Tony B]

looks like a squrare block with two pins. Where about I'm not sure on a LW.

[Mark]

I am assuming it would have one on a 24v system ?

[sirhc]

Mark,

Have you got this yet?

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Military-Land-Rover-Lightweight-Handbooks/dp/1855200155/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1237928896&sr=8-1

 

Chris

[Swill1952xs]

I really don't know............... but it is more than likely it wont be too far away from the temperature and fuel gauges, as they would be the main reason for having one.

The name voltage stabiliser is a bit misleading really as it works like a flasher unit, providing intermittent current to heat controlled gauges. If you get a continuous flow of power to them; they just burn out as the needle deflection is controlled by heat produced in a bi- metallic strip, connected to the indicator needle.

A normal unit is about an inch and a half long by about an inch, and about half an inch deep. It usually has two terminals on the back and sometimes an earthing leg which secures it in place. Very often it is mounted directly on the back of the gauges and plugged into a circuit board............... but being military.............. its probably behind the interior light and about a foot square. :-D

[fv1609]

Mark, if you are looking for a stabiliser for the instruments, you will not find one in a 24v Rover, although they were fitted in 12v Rovers.

 

Or are you talking about means of dropping the 24v supply down to 10v for the coil? If that is the case it is a black metal box with vent slats in the top about 5in x 3in x 3in. This will be mounted on a LtWt above the rocker cover on a mounting shared with the coil.

 

Apart from providing some filter of ignition pulses it houses two wire-wound resistance totally 4.4 ohms. Although this is not a stabilised supply, the voltage drop is dependant on the current drawn by the coil. So don't be tempted to try to suck off a lower voltage from this to run a CD player or something. Because when the points open the voltage at the output will rise to 24v.:shake:

[Mark]

Mark, if you are looking for a stabiliser for the instruments, you will not find one in a 24v Rover, although they were fitted in 12v Rovers.

 

Or are you talking about means of dropping the 24v supply down to 10v for the coil? If that is the case it is a black metal box with vent slats in the top about 5in x 3in x 3in. This will be mounted on a LtWt above the rocker cover on a mounting shared with the coil.

 

Apart from providing some filter of ignition pulses it houses two wire-wound resistance totally 4.4 ohms. Although this is not a stabilised supply, the voltage drop is dependant on the current drawn by the coil. So don't be tempted to try to suck off a lower voltage from this to run a CD player or something. Because when the points open the voltage at the output will rise to 24v.:shake:

 

 

Hi Clive it's not for a cd player, all my guages have packed up i.e. fuel,oil and water seems silly that all go at once, thats all.

[fv1609]

Mark, oh I see. Was there another thread on this somewhere?

 

I would check the fuse is ok. The end one on the block of four, has a white wire going in & green wire coming out exclusively supplies the fuel gauge. Check also the micro-switches in the fuel change over switch are still ok & also check earth point on the fuel tanks.

 

But are you sure your oil & temp gauges are actually electric? If they are, then they are also supplied by that same fuse that feeds the green wire.

 

Maybe your oil & temps gauges are not electric! But capillary operated & the thin capillary tube has been punctured & you have lost the ether or whatever they put in it.

 

Broadly speaking if yours is of the era with Gen Panel No 3 or earlier & you have 2 ammeters on the dash you will have capillary temp gauges.

 

If you have the Gen Panel No.4 & a single ammeter in the shunt box, you will have electric gauges for oil & water temperature.