TooTallMike Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Hi all, I'd like to pick your collective brains on the subject of replacing the rear cross member of my Land Rover 110. The old one is shot and I've bought a replacement with chassis 'extensions' that go forwards to just behind the rear spring mounts. I can see I need to do the following: - remove anti-roll bar - remove fuel tank, pipes & wiring - undo 8 bolts holding rear lower edge of body to rear cross member brackets - ease wiring out - remove rear exhaust mount (& exhaust section?) - cut chassis in correct location & weld enthusiastically Is there anything else I should be aware of? ...any handy hints, tips etc. that will make this easier? Any experiences welcome! Cheers - Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poptopshed Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 You have covered pretty much everything you need to do. I normally fix a stiff length of wire to the loom and stuff it well up the chassis leg ready to fish it back out afterwards. Have the waxoil ready for once the welding has cooled. Jon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirhc Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 When I did my Lightweight I took the rear tub off as it makes the job easier. I also sprayed inside the new cross member and the rest of the chassis with Hammerite before welding the new section on and then painted the welds afterwards. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poptopshed Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 The nice thing with 110 chassis is that it dip's down from the tub floor so with the tank removed you have plenty of room. On the soft top series L/R's with flat chassis we used to remove the the row of bolts holding the tub to the seatbox open the doors and jack the tub up slightly to make room for the welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted August 15, 2008 Author Share Posted August 15, 2008 Thanks guys. I'd prefer not to lift the tub if I can avoid it as it's a hard top and that's a whole load of work. It does look as though I'll be able to get all round the chassis for welding and that's the most important thing. One dumb question: once I've removed the rear chassis section will the body drop down at all or will it stay where it is? i.e. can I slip the 'extensions' over the cut-off stubs of the chassis rails and then bolt the new cross member onto the rear lower edge of the body to hold it all in place for welding or will I need to support the rear of the body as well? Cheers - Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Burley Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Even easier,is to drill the rivets from the rear floor and lift it up.Thats what we did with an old 109,when we changed the rear cross member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poptopshed Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Mike. The body shouldnt drop any as its supported along the front by brackets further forward on the outriggers and as its a hard top its braced by the screen through the roof. I would just measure it either side before starting to cut if you are worried about it moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 Keep the front doors shut throughout the job. That'll help keep the body stiffended and in the correct shape. Disconnect your battery before doing anything else, then there shouldn't be a need to open them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean101ryan Posted August 15, 2008 Share Posted August 15, 2008 As others have said, you can do the 110 crossmember without raising the tub, you get access all round with tank out of way. The replacement xmember will sleeve over the chassis rails, measure several times before you wave the cutting tool of choice. Clean all the faces of the chassis to shiny before welding then spray everything with your favourite black sticky stuff and oily gear internally. Be carefull what you buy, when i did mine, there were no tailgate hinge brackets or a hole to put the NATO socket. My wiring had been chaffing when I pulled it out of the chassis so I left it outside cable tied along the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 Well it certainly needed to be done! I followed the advice above and pulled the wiring right out of the chassis and tied it along the top. The new crossmember is more modern with the tubular lifting points and no PTO hole, but I'm not bothered as this is just a hack 110 and not a showpiece. I also treated myself to a new Dixon Bate drop hitch (ooh, the extravagance...). I'm going to Waxoyl it all tomorrow night. There's a few bits to finish like the trailer socket and the tie-down rings which will get a coat of paint before going back on. I also need to do one of the rear spring seats as it was squishier than I'd realised. Thanks for all the advice anyway. It wasn't too bad a job, just messy and fiddly in places. It gets its first test tonight when I'm towing a Ben Hur loaded with a WLF front axle! - Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormin Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Why are the threads showing on the body bolts on left hand side under the Reverse light? Looks a lot more sound than the old one. Don't think that'd have been upto bringing back ben hur and WLF axle. Does the front axle mean more repairs required to the Ward La France or just for stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nissedasapewt Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Looks like a good job, one hint is that if you want the trailer socket out the way it fits very neatly in the jacking point on the right hand side, which OK you lose the use of, but it keeps the socket up out of the dirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TooTallMike Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 Why are the threads showing on the body bolts on left hand side under the Reverse light? Looks a lot more sound than the old one. Don't think that'd have been upto bringing back ben hur and WLF axle. Does the front axle mean more repairs required to the Ward La France or just for stock? Well spotted Eagle-Eyes - that's where the ladder to the roof rack bolts on. I take it on and off frequently and I'm fed up with reaching underneath to remove the bolts. This way it just goes on with a couple of nuts from the outside onto what are now effectively studs. Clever huh :confused:. WLF axle is to rebuild to go on mine - one of many projects to keep me quiet over the winter. Nissed - the jacking point on the newer crossmembers is a tube only about 1" dia. so the socket won't fit in it (unless I've misunderstood?). I don't want to mount the socket on the back face as it'll be trashed in no time. I plan to mount it up underneath out of the way. - Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rambo1969 Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 Pucker job there mate, well done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 WLF axle is to rebuild to go on mine - one of many projects to keep me quiet over the winter. Mike, I reckon Grasshopper will not have so much time to play from now on, so you could be on your own with the WLF :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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