Cutting Perspex

[Tony B]

I want to prepare the currently not working battrey charging set for static display. The idea is to strip off the head and magneto plate, but as in the future it could be made to run agin, basically all thats needed is a new set of points, I want to ensure no futher damage. What I'm thinking of is to cover the open areas with transparent perspex or similar. the obvious problem is cutting quite complex shapes. Also how best to keep the internals ok without oil. Any suggestions please?

[Marmite!!]

I've had good results with a router....

[Tony B]

Umm never used one details please?

[Mark]

Jigsaw with a decent blade.

[Marmite!!]

Umm never used one details please?

 

 

Not a lot to know, I used a two flute 6mm cutter at about 25,000rpm, plunge & cut... if material is over 6mm thick cut in several passes...

[ian2b]

Not a lot to know, I used a two flute 6mm cutter at about 25,000rpm, plunge & cut... if material is over 6mm thick cut in several passes...

 

 

Nice of you to volunteer Lee,

When I get round to replacing the broken windows on the Rubbery Owen trailer I will give you a call and let you give me a demonstration of your cutting skills on the perspex for them :whistle:

 

I can see an HMVF TV clip being made.

[Marmite!!]

ok :roll:

[Jessie The Jeep]

For extruded acrylic or clear styrene, you need to keep the jigsaw blade speed slow or it can melt the plastic. Cast acrylic probably wont give you as many problems. How big are the pieces you are looking to make?

 

I also tend to score the surface with a scalpel blade to reduce the chance of shattering across the part you are cutting. A router is probably fine for straight edges, but you could end up making complex patterns if you have odd shapes to cut. A jigsaw will probably give you better control if you have lots of curves to cut.

 

Steve

[Mark]

Or even better use Macrolon a bit more expensive but much better wearing than ordinary plastic

[Tony B]

Hey Steve, not very big but lots of curves and extra holes for the retainig bolts.

[Jessie The Jeep]

Or even better use Macrolon a bit more expensive but much better wearing than ordinary plastic

 

 

I haven't heard of the macaroni stuff you just mentioned. What is it?

 

Polycarbonate is another option. More expensive, but very tough, so you could use thinner, more easily worked material.

 

Probably best to go to your local plastics supplier and have a chat about what you are doing, thr tools you have etc, and see what they recommend.

 

Steve

[Mark]

Makrolon is used in industry a lot for machine guarding and I believe for riot shields but I stand to be corrected on that one.

 

Have a look here;

http://www.makrolon.com/BMS/DB-RSC/MakrolonCMSR6.nsf/id/home_en

[CanadianScottish]

Tony, if you need a router I've got one in the back of the garage......Somewhere!

[snowtracdave]

I believe Makrolon is one of the brand names for polycarbonate sheet - having cut & fitted SO many acres of it whilst re-glazing school windows I've long since stopped reading the labels ! We usually cut with a jigsaw, as already stated you'll need a good sharp blade and not too fast a cutting speed , if you have variable speed on your machine . Also - stating the obvious I know - but do wear your safety glasses , the particles that get thrown off when you cut is pretty hot & pretty sharp . Getting a bit in your eye is not a lot of fun .

[Tony B]

Tony, if you need a router I've got one in the back of the garage......Somewhere!

 

Ta mate I'll be up to show you the new toys anyway. I did use 25mm Lexsan for headlight gaurds once. Weighed the Landy down to much :-D I'll have a look round the local suppliers later in the week and see whats about. I thought as it only needs to be thin what about a Dremmel or engraving tool to cut? Anyone tried those.

[Marmite!!]

. I thought as it only needs to be thin what about a Dremmel or engraving tool to cut? Anyone tried those.

 

 

Dremel good.. with router attachment & bit :whistle: