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Hotchkiss M201 Head scratching Electrical problem!


ferretfixer
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Hello Everyone!

I have a nice '45 Willys Jeep. Restored to Hotchkiss M201 Mil Spec.  I purchased this approx 2 years ago. I parked it on my drive & sheeted it over. when Covid killed all the show's Etc. The batteries on a trickle charger, which has kept them topped up nicely.

Last week I started her up with no difficulty. Lift pump fuel to carb, slight choke & fired her up excellently!

Now come the problem! She is not charging! ALL gauges are working, EXCEPT. The ammeter. It is not showing charge, or surprisingly any discharge? Also, I dont know if it is related. But all lights work, EXCEPT the main headlights? I am told that a good check to do on a Hotcho is to start it. & when running turn off the battery isolator switch. As it is a Negative earth, & the switch comes in there before power is turned on. I am informed that IF the Gennie is working. The engine will CONTINUE to run. Thus displaying that the charging side of things are working? Yesterday, I had the regulator box off & opened it up. The inside is very clean & everything is in like new condition. I lightly wiped all the contacts with a fine emery board as I had access, to eliminate this component area. All solenoid contact bridges move manually easily as they should. 

I only have a blurry vague French wiring diagram. & from what I gather, i think there is a contact switch on the rear of the ammeter? I am wondering if there is, might this be the problem? but as I said, all other gauges & lights ( Except main headlights ) are working. I am stumped here on this?  

I am hoping one of you erstwhile chaps may have some sound advice on what to do / look for? I want to get this rectified, so I can enjoy driving it. Whilst we still have good weather!...HELP!!!.....

 

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4 minutes ago, fv1609 said:

I saw Andy this weekend displaying his vehicles at the Overlord Show, so he is probably still recovering & getting organised after the event.

Hi Clive, Do you know. I was thinking the same about Andy & the show. I was not able to attend Overlord myself sadly.  With the Jeep not apparantly charging, that was but one factor I was not able to go!  ☹️

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At least it saved you the indignity of being broken down on the showground. There was one Land Rover broken down at the end of the show & luckily I had packed my box of tricks with me & got him started. 

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Just now, fv1609 said:

At least it saved you the indignity of being broken down on the showground. There was one Land Rover broken down at the end of the show & luckily I had packed my box of tricks with me & got him started. 

Indeed! I would NEVER have attempted the Journey from Kent to Portsmouth. Without the Charging system being operative in any case!  But the Fault is driving Me mad now!....🤪

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Just now, AmmoMan said:

Does it continue to run when you turn off the battery isolator switch ?

No, It dosent. As an aside, I now have main headlights working! ;)

I ran her up this afternoon. Battery level reading on a voltmeter are 24.7. Running, & also engine switched off.

She is defo NOT charging!...... ☹️

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4 minutes ago, AmmoMan said:

 

Details Required:

As posted in 'Other Chatter'.

As the Heading suggests. I am seeking a contact number for Andy Carter. Who runs the M201 Jeep Site.

2 x Emails sent already & a week has elapsed since the Overlord Show.... I really need to speak to him on Electrical M201 technical Difficulties!

The good weather is passing, & I am unable to go out in my Jeep & enjoy it!. Which is one of the main reasons I bought it, in the First place!

Can anyone Help please? This info will not be abused.

Many Thanks!    Mike.

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Mike I know nothing about Jeeps, but as a general approach. I would:

Check that you have a sensible voltage on the field winding of the dynamo. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

Check the voltage directly on the dynamo output or at least where it enters the regulator. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

If there is no output from the dynamo a very basic test is to run it as a motor. Take off the fan belt, detach any leads, then connect the field winding to the output winding then through a fuse say 10A to the battery terminal & the dynamo should revolve.

If there is no movement despite cautiously turning the pulley a little, then disconnect the cables & with an ohmmeter you should read something like 10-20 ohms on the field winding. On the output (armature) winding you should read perhaps 100 ohms, try rotating it a bit as the reading may vary or be intermittent. If there is no reading you most likely have worn out carbon brushes or defective springs unable to push the brushes onto the commutator. (The resistance figures are just ballpark guesses)

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Have you carried out the simple checks that Clive suggested?

Check that you have a sensible voltage on the field winding of the dynamo. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

Check the voltage directly on the dynamo output or at least where it enters the regulator. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

Also

Does it have a charge light on the dashboard? Some systems will not charge if the bulb is blown.

It will have a cut out contact that prevents the battery discharging in to the dynamo when not running, is this working?

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1 minute ago, radiomike7 said:

Have you carried out the simple checks that Clive suggested?

Check that you have a sensible voltage on the field winding of the dynamo. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

Check the voltage directly on the dynamo output or at least where it enters the regulator. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

Also

Does it have a charge light on the dashboard? Some systems will not charge if the bulb is blown.

It will have a cut out contact that prevents the battery discharging in to the dynamo when not running, is this working?

No Bud, i dont have time at present im afraid :( It does not have a charge light. Jeeps dont as standard.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 8/20/2021 at 9:17 PM, fv1609 said:

Mike I know nothing about Jeeps, but as a general approach. I would:

Check that you have a sensible voltage on the field winding of the dynamo. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

Check the voltage directly on the dynamo output or at least where it enters the regulator. Is it significant & does it vary when running?.

If there is no output from the dynamo a very basic test is to run it as a motor. Take off the fan belt, detach any leads, then connect the field winding to the output winding then through a fuse say 10A to the battery terminal & the dynamo should revolve.

If there is no movement despite cautiously turning the pulley a little, then disconnect the cables & with an ohmmeter you should read something like 10-20 ohms on the field winding. On the output (armature) winding you should read perhaps 100 ohms, try rotating it a bit as the reading may vary or be intermittent. If there is no reading you most likely have worn out carbon brushes or defective springs unable to push the brushes onto the commutator. (The resistance figures are just ballpark guesses)

Clive, no out put all all on a volt meter tester. I think the Dynamo has had it. This is strange to me, as it was running perfectly when laid up 18 months ago? I now have sourced a N.O.S French Army Gennie & intend to fit when time allows. I will test it as a 'Motor' prior to installation. I will update this Post as & when procedures' are enacted.   M.

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My brothers M201 had something similar. From memory...It ran until the batterys were discharged after first loosing headlamps.

It wasn't charging. I think it was the regulator? The rectangular electricity box of magic tricks...

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  • 2 weeks later...
17 hours ago, Jerry Jeep said:

i have had this before and it was the lead from the gen to the regulator i re wired it and it was fine would be worth testing it 

Yes another item to test before installing a new Gennie. I have now a replacment Gennie, Harness & Regulator.

So by a process of elimination by exchanging component's, i should find the culprit!

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