flyingfleasteve Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 The rear mudguard now primed and pieces back together ready for a final sand and top coat....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 The project is now progressing nicely, more parts cleaned and ready for paint.......nice to find someone original olive drab paint on the barrel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Coronavirus and lockdown has its benefits then Steve👌 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 It does Ron. A lot of the big jobs now done, a few items left to paint but the engine in now rebuilt and sat in the frame, wheels about to be made so it’s all go..... it’s not uncommon for me to pop into the shed at 6.00am before work and again 6.00pm afterwards to carry on with it......😬 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 A man after my own heart. I've always been an early riser. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) So today I have hit a small problem. After cleaning the cylinder head the 18mm spark plug hole has been fitted with a 14mm reducer. After a lot of chiselling I managed to remove the reduced keeping the head intact. Although the threads left in the head appear fine they are slightly larger than 18mm. I am now at a bit of dilemma, do I:- 1. Refit a new reducer and run a 14mm plug. 2.Repair/helicoil it’s (I am struggling to find an 18mm repair kit?) 3. Look to purchase a replacement head, currently I am struggling to find one. I would appreciated any advice. Thank you in advance! Edited June 10, 2020 by flyingfleasteve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Is this it? Otherwise a machine shop should be able to put in an insert and tap it to size. Ron https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RDGTOOLS-M18-X-1-25-HELICOIL-KIT-THREAD-REPAIR-KIT-SPARK-PLUG-SIZE/293043021775?hash=item443ab9a7cf:g:wT4AAOSwOttcwskF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 Decent 9D cylinder heads are getting hard to find......worth picking them up when you see them, even with broken fins..... Most post-war 9D heads have a screwed plug in the 14mm decompressor hole as this item wasn't fitted to civilian models. Of course, you can remove this but all the heads I've had in the past with the plug present required heat of volcanic proportions to budge ! As Ron noted, any decent engineering shop should be able to put in an 18mm metric insert..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Thanks Gents. It’s a learning curve for me.......your expertise are gratefully received! Hubs now primed and on there way for rebuild, more finish paint coats applied and more components fitted to the frame, it’s starting to look like a bike! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Looking nice Steve ! Don't forget to fit that small pair of plates either side of the bottom engine-to-frame bolt to attach the stand springs to ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 These🙂 Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Thanks chaps, I nearly did forget them.....they are on the line of freshly primed parts.....I am unsure how accurate mine are, I had to make them as the originals where missing..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 They're not that critical. You can adjust the tension on the springs by swiveling them. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Thank Ron! Out of curiosity what is the approximate length and diameter of each spring relaxed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 I don't know how original mine are, but I'll see if one hooks off easily for measuring. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Steve, in it's relaxed state! Mine is 7/16" X 3 3/4" long.......Oooooow Matron!! Now Steve you know where I live, so can you pop down tomorrow and help me stretch it on again? Ron😄😄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 Ron. your a star! Thank you! If Wales would let me out I’d be there to help put that spring back on 😉 The engine is now coming on well, I have been a little bit naughty and sprayed the barrel a different colour, my olive drab paint is super low and I would like to make sure I can finish the rest of the components first..... I may come back to the barrel again .... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Nice stuff, am not that far yet, but shouldn't the bottom frame spacers be inside the frame tubes?? Just a thought, you put them on correctly on the top (under saddle) lugs. Cheers, Lex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 How Lex! 🙈 Well spotted, thank you! That would cause some issues further down the line. Much appreciated! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welbike Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 (edited) No probs, just something that stood out to me! Just looked at mine, and the top ones are not seperate pieces, but part of the casting! Cheers, Lex Edited June 12, 2020 by welbike additional info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 I was wondering when you'd spot that Lex........Well done !!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Frame spacers now rectified gents! I took the rear frame sections off at the same time and touched the paint up in the effected areas.......a bit OTT but I like to do a job properly 😊 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingfleasteve Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 Cracking on Steve! I notice you didn't modify your post war center stand which will have a bearing on the length of the springs required. Ron🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wdbikemad Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 The post-war stand was part number ML64ASS whereas the wartime was ML15ASS............ The post-war springs were part number ML643B whereas the wartime were ML643........... The post-war springs were indeed probably slightly longer although to what extent I don't know. The key thing with the springs is to have them "springy" enough for the stand to automatically flip-up and then largely stay in place once retracted..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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