Lewis Garner Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Hello chaps, just readying ourselves for removing the engine, gearbox and transfer box out of our Stolly project. My question is, looking at the diagrams am I correct in assuming that both centre wheel stations need to be removed before it can be lifted out? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andym Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 I haven't done it myself (yet!) but not according to EMER V644 Part 1. You remove the couplings but leave the bevel boxes where they are. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 Hello chaps, just readying ourselves for removing the engine, gearbox and transfer box out of our Stolly project. My question is, looking at the diagrams am I correct in assuming that both centre wheel stations need to be removed before it can be lifted out? Thanks you don't need to remove the wheel stations ,just the top off the centre bevel boxes and remove the spacer which splits in two . you can then slide the shaft out from the transfer box ,wind back the oil seals and remove the clamp things . i'd recommend getting the correct manual . cheers justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Cheers guys, very helpful. Have got the majority of the floor up and cross beams out this evening along with radiator out. All steps in the right direction to stripping her back to a bare hull Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 Hit a bit of a wall with the Stolly chaps, I'm having a real struggle removing the centre bevel box clamps as our transfer box is locked solid for some reason so I can't turn it to line the clamp bolts up with the inspection holes. With securing nuts removed, side upper bearing caps and the big adjuster clamps removed I assume the big cast front cover should pull off? I'm struggling to get ours to budge so that I can see what is going on in there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 7, 2017 Share Posted September 7, 2017 (edited) Hit a bit of a wall with the Stolly chaps, I'm having a real struggle removing the centre bevel box clamps as our transfer box is locked solid for some reason so I can't turn it to line the clamp bolts up with the inspection holes. With securing nuts removed, side upper bearing caps and the big adjuster clamps removed I assume the big cast front cover should pull off? I'm struggling to get ours to budge so that I can see what is going on in there! You have all the wheels off the ground? Do you have the EMER covering this task? I advise you to get hold of them as it saves damaging anything and the drawings do explain the construction of it. Edited September 7, 2017 by Richard Farrant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 Hello Richard, in a sense yes as we removed all of the sun gears from each hub so that we could tow it into place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 Also I don't have the EMER to hand but have found it on here and downloaded a PDF, I'll have a read through this evening Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Hello Richard, in a sense yes as we removed all of the sun gears from each hub so that we could tow it into place Hi Lewis, See if you can turn on of the driveshafts which go between bevel boxes, a big set of pipe grips might help, also, make sure transfer box in in Neutral position, the less you have to turn over the better, assume handbrake is not on or dragging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 It looks like I'm in the same boat ! what I assume is the transfer box went bang on the way to a steam fair this morning , no forward drive just nasty noise , reverse drive with very Nasty noise . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean N Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Bu**er. Sorry to hear that, Justin. Richard Banister? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Bu**er. Sorry to hear that, Justin. Richard Banister? Hi Sean , I'll give Richard a call tomorrow ! all was well with the old girl , even won best military vehicle at a local classic show ,until this morning ! oh well justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 What a pain chap, not what you need especially after just getting her all back together! We still haven't really got any further with ours, I have tried with a bloody great bar to turn the thing over and it won't move even the slightest amount. We even tried fitting a sun gear and towing it but simply dug a trench. The front cover definitely needs to come off to see what on earth has happened in there. Unfortunately in years gone by someone has taken the top off to inspect the damage and left the top plate off allowing water ingress. It's not easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 What a pain chap, not what you need especially after just getting her all back together!We still haven't really got any further with ours, I have tried with a bloody great bar to turn the thing over and it won't move even the slightest amount. We even tried fitting a sun gear and towing it but simply dug a trench. The front cover definitely needs to come off to see what on earth has happened in there. Unfortunately in years gone by someone has taken the top off to inspect the damage and left the top plate off allowing water ingress. It's not easy Can you remove the centre wheel stations and then try and pull the centre bevel boxes out through the hull until the shafts clear of the transfer box? in my head it works but may not in practice . just out of interest did you time up the planet gears in the reduction hubs before you towed it as that could lock the wheel completely . What about large stilsons on the propshafts in the hull? justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Can you remove the centre wheel stations and then try and pull the centre bevel boxes out through the hull until the shafts clear of the transfer box? in my head it works but may not in practice . You have to remove the transfer box first before you can remove centre bevel boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 You have to remove the transfer box first before you can remove centre bevel boxes. On the mark 2 you can remove the centre bevel boxes before the transfer box but you need to remove the front and rear pinion cases first. not sure if mk 1 is different though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 If I can work out how to do it I'll stick a couple of pics up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 On the mark 2 you can remove the centre bevel boxes before the transfer boxbut you need to remove the front and rear pinion cases first. not sure if mk 1 is different though Yes you are correct, it has been about 30 years ago when I last took bevel boxes out of a Stalwart and my mind was foggy. Getting the sleeves back off the drives shafts can be difficult too if they are seized, but they need to come out before you can remove the pinions on the bevel box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinb Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 Yes you are correct, it has been about 30 years ago when I last took bevel boxes out of a Stalwart and my mind was foggy. Getting the sleeves back off the drives shafts can be difficult too if they are seized, but they need to come out before you can remove the pinions on the bevel box. the sleeves on mine were seized and took a bit of violence to shift them ,getting the circlips back on is even more fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowfat Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I used a big air hammer to move my sleeves. it was the best way to get the force required in a controllable way. In fact it made a huge difference in the dismantling process in general. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Garner Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 Right chaps, an update. I didn't realise that the distance clamps actually turn independently as they aren't internally splined so with some tapping they knocked round and the clamp bolts could then be removed. Unfortunately I'm really struggling to get the drive sleeves into the transfer box to slide back into the centre bevel boxes, they slide backwards and forwards easy peasy in my reconditioned bevel boxes I have to fit, unfortunately after 25 years in a field the ones on the truck aren't so easily moved! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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