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Land Rover 110 Locks


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Help needed

I have an issue with the door lock, yes still learning, the key turns the lock barrel but does not lock, I assume it means the latch could have gone.

Any advise on how to check what's wrong and if latch how to change the latch

the latch is the type with a "lever"

Thanks in advance

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Is it the kind with a locking lever that runs in a 1/4 circle slot on the inside ? Looks like




I haver a similar issue with a rear door lock on 35KL88 - it locks OK if the lever on the inside is in the "up" position and I find a small piece of Blu-Tack stops it from moving when the door is closed - I suppose I should really dismantle the lock and find why it is loose of course !



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I suspect they are standard Land Rover Anti burst locks. Most of the usual Landy suppliers should have them, just shop about.



Strangely enough I have it booked in for a Landie workshop to look at the differential leak, something outwith my capabilities, they are going to look at the cab heating at the same time.

Best news is they are going to show and teach me, great for a local garage to me.


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Land Rover axles have a little tube or in the case of older ones a brass bell shaped object screwed into the top. This is the breather. The idea is to relive pressure in the axle when operating, most 4x4 axles have them. The older type can get bunged up with muck, they are just a ball bearing and spring, so it advisable every so often to remove and clean. The newer Landy's have a simple plastic pipe going from the axle up to some part of the chassis, these are known as remote breathers. The down side of these is they can get snapped short allowing muck or water into the axle or crimp and create over pressure. Have a look whilist it is the workshop and if you have the old type consider changing to a remote set. Often overlooked but important.


Depending where you are based there are quite a lot of specalist landy dealers /restorers who have second hand bits. Local clubs are also useful for bits and help, always ready to 'Green' another lost soul. If you are starting totally from scratch, investin decent tools, cheap tools= damaged parts, lots of frustation and the job dosen't get done. I'd suggest the Halford's Advanced range, not the cheapest, but not as eye watering as brands such as Snap on, I use mine on everything from cars to the dodges and Land Rovers, never managed to breack them yet. If the locks turn out ok afte twiddling, you can buy cheaply a set of new barrels and keys, these will also fit second hand locks.

Edited by Tony B
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just been advised that the locks I have were only issued for a year, also been advised that the Series III would fit but would need to alter the doors.


Has any one dismanteled the latch and what issues do I need to look out for?




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The locks I have for info



Looking at the photograph. IMHO - it is in fact a Defender 'NON-SLAM' anti-burst type , should be quite ££ cheap and easy to obtain.


It should be possible to pick up the correct part No. using your VIN against the 'Change points' a total PITA) on the lock page(s) of a Civvy Parts Catalogue. IIRC - they are identical to MOD Contract because there were no door internal liner cards fitted (you needed thingies to get to the internal locking through the trim..


You may find such as this that would be basically of same latch type :-





btw - I am not convinced that the later S3 (anti-burst) locks would be a safe type to fit ,, however I have not had much to do with Defender era locks.

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