Jelleyboy Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Everything is wired up as per the wiring diagram Nick gave me, battery negative is on the engine rear support with the strap. positive is on the front of the starter motor, nothing at all power wise, brand new battery can anyone give me any ideas please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 MatchFuzee Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 Have you checked the voltage of the battery? If a battery has been unused for a long time and especially if it has been in a cold place the voltage will drop to the point were it won't turn over the engine and may even not have enough power to light up a bulb. Another possibility that you have a faulty battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Pete Ashby Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 The best thing to do is work your way through the power feeds with a voltmeter in sequence starting with the battery to ground should be around 12.5 to 13 volts on a good 12 volt battery then work your way through the starter solenoid activation circuit and then the low tension ignition circuit remember to test both sides of the ignition switch ie input and then turn the switch on and test for battery voltage on the coil side of the switch. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Richard Farrant Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 If you have a multimeter, the first thing to do is check that all the earth connections are clean and making good contact, especially if you have painted the chassis, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 CMP-Phil Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Hi Had the same problem with my CMP HUP overhaul couple years ago, engine ran perfect with all the cables and battery on test stand one day, installed engine the next hooked everything up had voltage to coil and starter but would not crank. Problem turned out to be as Richard suggest above paint on chassis connection point. Problem was hard to find because it would carry the voltage but not the cranking amp load. In the end it took unbolting all the ground lead locations and spot polishing each to bare metal adding star washers and the engine spun right over and started. Cheers Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Jelleyboy Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Can I also ask; I changed the original battery as it was dead from storing in the shed for two years to the same code from Halfords HSB019 Start up power - 900 amps AH Value - 100ah Bench charge 6 amps I need to replace the battery leads as these were in terribly damaged condition. Could anyone advise what I need for this battery please? Thank you I will check the grounding connections and remove paint where needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 lowfat Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I have found halfrauds batteries to be less than reliable... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Starfire Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 You don't need anything particularly special in the way of leads for that battery. I assume that it has standard terminals, in which case any auto parts store will have appropriate leads and terminals for it, just pick your length. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Pete Ashby Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Can I also ask; I changed the original battery as it was dead from storing in the shed for two years to the same code from HalfordsHSB019 Start up power - 900 amps AH Value - 100ah Bench charge 6 amps I need to replace the battery leads as these were in terribly damaged condition. Could anyone advise what I need for this battery please? Thank you I will check the grounding connections and remove paint where needed Put a voltmeter across the battery terminals without load this is the reading you need to start with.....what is the reading ? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Jelleyboy Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 I'll look next weekend with a volt meter, the ground locations were dremelled and clean for the grounding points earlier , fitted the battery up and got a fizz off the battery and a little smoke off the negative terminal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Chris Suslowicz Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I'll look next weekend with a volt meter, the ground locations were dremelled and clean for the grounding points earlier , fitted the battery up and got a fizz off the battery and a little smoke off the negative terminal In that case your negative terminal is not making good enough contact. Disconnect the lead, give the terminal post and the clamp a good clean and a tiny smear of vaseline, refit the clamp to the post and tighten it up properly. (Don't apply too much force to the thing or you may damage the battery casing.) A good, clean, low resistance contact is what you need, as it has to pass several hundred amps when cranking the engine. The hiss and smoke was due to a poor (high resistance) connection getting very hot. Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Richard Farrant Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 I'll look next weekend with a volt meter, the ground locations were dremelled and clean for the grounding points earlier , fitted the battery up and got a fizz off the battery and a little smoke off the negative terminal Did this fizz come as you connected the battery, or when you attempted to use the starter? If it was as you connected, then it sounds like a dead short somewhere. Is the wiring harness connected to the starter live terminal yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Jelleyboy Posted February 28, 2016 Author Share Posted February 28, 2016 Did this fizz come as you connected the battery, or when you attempted to use the starter? If it was as you connected, then it sounds like a dead short somewhere. Is the wiring harness connected to the starter live terminal yet? Hi Richard, I connected the Positive up then put the negative on and it was ok, then it just started to fizz, without me turning anything on dash switches were off at this point.Yes the live to the starter is connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Richard Farrant Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Hi Richard, I connected the Positive up then put the negative on and it was ok, then it just started to fizz, without me turning anything on dash switches were off at this point.Yes the live to the starter is connected. Your starter should have a manual lever, operated by a control cable. The lever may be jammed and contacts touching partially. I would check this out, and disconnect the feed cable from starter live terminal so you can test the starter circuit only first. Once you know that is working, then connect the feed to rest of vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Jelleyboy Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Will do, will have a look at this at the weekend along with the brakes. I really do need some new battery cables for this 900amp battery. The reason for this is that the positive cable has a sleeve of metal around the cable going upto the terminal and the negative is split to buggery and has been electrical taped up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 ArtistsRifles Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Going to ask a dumb question here perhaps - but is the vehicle design positive earth instead of negative?? Up till the 1960's it was fairly common manufacturing practice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Jelleyboy Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 The starter motor manual lever I believe was the issue,also applied vaseline and cleaned the battery terminals up. The stater now powers up and the dizzy's rotor arm spun round, the dash electrics still aren't working so I believe I've screwed up somewhere I'll address this at the weekend, although nice to see the eBay bulb holders I purchased have lit up the oil warning light (sorry as my first restoration, and i've never done vehicle electronics) I was over the moon. Does anyone have a photo they could show me please how the cable to the carb attaches as I have no fixings just the cable at the moment and can't see in the manuals how this goes on? Also, is there any way around BPF bulbs? in the sense that I have the wires wired up to the original bulb holder and shell, with a bayonet fitting for the original bulbs, this is twin element and from what I can see so are the BPF bulbs, however they have a ring rather then the bayonet fitments. Do I have to change the entire headlight to get these working? All help muchly appreciated, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 rampant rivet Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 hi Luke do you mean the Choke cable ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Jelleyboy Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 hi Luke do you mean the Choke cable ? Hi Jeremy, yes the choke cable, completely stumped with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 rampant rivet Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Ok I'll take some pics of my spare carb showing where it all goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
0 Jelleyboy Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Ok I'll take some pics of my spare carb showing where it all goes Perfect thank you Jeremy, I really appreciate the help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Question
Jelleyboy
Everything is wired up as per the wiring diagram Nick gave me, battery negative is on the engine rear support with the strap.
positive is on the front of the starter motor, nothing at all power wise, brand new battery can anyone give me any ideas please?
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