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1938 dkw rt 100


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Thanks Lex for the pages, this far I came though the clutch itselve is OK. My problem is to reinstall the cluch cover, with the wormwheel and the pin inside the wormwheel to connect the pin back to the cluch, so the clutch can be pulled by the pin. The pin is missing the connection to the cluch, and I cannot figure out what happened during removing the sidecover. I am afraid I somehow disengaged the connection from the flared pin to the clutch, but cannot discover how the flared pin is connected to the clutch. There should be a reinstalling procedure that ensures clutch working as it should.

Jan

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47 minutes ago, Jan said:

Thanks Lex for the pages, this far I came though the clutch itselve is OK. My problem is to reinstall the cluch cover, with the wormwheel and the pin inside the wormwheel to connect the pin back to the cluch, so the clutch can be pulled by the pin. The pin is missing the connection to the cluch, and I cannot figure out what happened during removing the sidecover. I am afraid I somehow disengaged the connection from the flared pin to the clutch, but cannot discover how the flared pin is connected to the clutch. There should be a reinstalling procedure that ensures clutch working as it should.

Jan

Figured out: There are loose balls involved indeed. Now how to figure out how to install the lot with trying to keep the balls in place..

P1290480.JPG

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10 hours ago, Zuffen said:

Grease would be my way forward.

give it a try, nothing to lose.

Gave it a try, and it seems to be OK. Used 2 wooden satay sticks to push the wormwheel in front of the gate, and hoped for the best with a lot of grease holding the balls in place (as I would like them to!). So far no strange noises or rough running discovered. One thing bothered me though: I found only 7 balls where there was plenty room for 8.. Did my father in law go with only 7?? There is no chance that I missed one ball, for there was nothing in the casing, and all 7 balls where in the clutch housing and no room for them to go further down than in that space (the photo shows 6 balls, one was in the coverplate so not visible on the picture). So fingers crossed that it went OK, but so far so good.

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  • 4 months later...

I'm back again to continue with a puzzle. As I have done the previous job (with slight succes) to solve a leakage along the wormwheel through the casing with a rubber seal (the bike runs OK but is still leaking). But: I have found out that the oil inside the casing should NOT be oil, but grease instead. And a found manual says "Shell Gearol (Ambroleum) , Mobiloil Compound C 1 of Shell Retinax."  (from manual DKW RT 100 (oldtimercollection.nl) )

Nowadays Shell Retinax is called Gadus nl-lube-shuttle-sales-factsheet.pdf (shell.nl). Question: What type is the best to be used?

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46 minutes ago, welbike said:

I'm using 00 grease, can be found everywhere, and is very good inside gearboxes, leaks less, and works well.

Hope this helps,

Lex

Thanks! Will get some Kroon EP 00/000 as it is suitable for non oil tight transmissions as they state.

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  • 6 months later...

I love your restoration, it is awesome thanks for posting - much appreciated. I an currently restoring a 1939 DKW RT100. I'm looking for a number of parts like a left footrest, chain guard, Tail light, head light, clutch spindle,  Flywheel and ignition coils. I have searched on ebay and found a number of parts. However the list that I have supplied is still outstanding. Can you please put me on someone that I cab contact for the parts. Thanks Johan Steyn (South Africa)

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