RUST CONVERTORS: WHICH ONE DO YOU USE?

[simon stolly]

Inspired by a visit to Grumpy's yard last week, I decided to lift the load bed off my Stolly today, give it a clean out and paint it up in silver ally paint. The horrors that lurked beneath :-o

I got a bin full of cr** out and I've not even got into the hull yet! Due to the Stolly standing outside without a rear cover on, not only did I have a compost heap in there but also some serious rust issues. I need to use a rust converter, but which one? Something that neutralises the rust and leaves a suitable surface for paint, but most important of all LASTS!!! So if you've used some stuff and it's worked or not ( knowing what's rubbish would be worth knowing too) Recommendations on Zinc primers as well would be helpful.

Tell me, what has worked for you on your rusty steed :-D

[fv1609]

I used to use Fertan which is tannic acid (brown with a wonderful aromatic smell) the boast was that it had been used to conserve the submarine Holland I built in 1901. But when I was in the Submarine Museum last year I see that this did not work & the thing was still coroding away & an entirely diffrent appoach was adopted. I gather it failed to do any good on SS Great Britain & allegedly used at Bovington

 

I did find that the rust continued & although you don't hear much of Fertan these days there are other rust convertors but they do smell the same!

 

http://www.nhsc.org.uk/index.cfm/event/getVessel/vref/427

 

http://links.jstor.org/sici?sici=0848-8525%281987%2919%3A1%3C16%3AFR%3E2.0.CO%3B2-2&size=LARGE

 

http://www.eura.co.uk/ssgb.pdf

 

[simon stolly]

anything that could make my Stolly smell better would be usefull too!

[ArtistsRifles]

Can't help on the smell - but I use Dinitrol RC800 on the cars - works well but if brushed on will need a good rubbing fown before priming/painting. Much better to spray it on if you can!!

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/popup.cfm?p_i=405071&p_n=405071

 

Alternatively there's RustBusters fe-123 product - works almost as well as Dinitrol but a bit cheaper and got top marks in the Practical Classics tests recently!

 

http://www.rust.co.uk/rust-converters.cfm

[Rick W]

Theres no substitute for the stuff you can get from Frosts surely, its blooming marvellous, Ive done all mine with it. Just spray the stuff on and keep it wet over half an hour, leave to dry, its easy and effective. Expensive tho, but you can reuse it.

[simon stolly]

Theres no substitute for the stuff you can get from Frosts surely, its blooming marvellous, Ive done all mine with it. Just spray the stuff on and keep it wet over half an hour, leave to dry, its easy and effective. Expensive tho, but you can reuse it.

 

sounds interesting, can you tell me more? I've not heard of Frosts, do they make it or are they suppliers and how can I contact them? Approx how much a litre is it? Anyone else with solutions to heavily rusted plate?

[Marmite!!]

sounds interesting, can you tell me more? I've not heard of Frosts, do they make it or are they suppliers and how can I contact them? Approx how much a litre is it? Anyone else with solutions to heavily rusted plate?

 

 

http://www.frost.co.uk/productList.asp?catID=28&frostCat=Rust

[Poptopshed]

I have heard good things about this stuff, both the liquid and gel but not used it my self.

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html

 

 

[Richard Farrant]

I have heard good things about this stuff, both the liquid and gel but not used it my self.

http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxgel.html

 

 

 

 

Not used the gel, but am trialing the Deox-C, http://www.bilthamber.com/deoxc.html

 

It is a powder that is mixed 1 part to 19 parts of water, in a plastic bucket, it is a rust remover, does not convert rust, that is another of their products. Deox-C is handy for small parts that are difficult to clean on wire wheel, or blast. Leave them in the solution for about 24 hours, brushing them occasionally with a stiff brush to clean reidue off surface. Once out, wash of and you will see what was very rusty metal, gleaming.

 

Richard