ajmac Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Although I have drilled the obvious pin holes and welded them I have found over a three week soak test at room temperature that my Flathead sump still weeps oil so there must be some small leak paths through the bottom plate. All I can think off is using some fuel tank sealer such at POR15 tank sealer. Are ther any obvious reasons why engine oil would attack this coating while it is certified against fuel and additives? Any alternate coatings out there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I used Plasteel to fix an inch wide hole in a sump (Don't ask, the breather on the front axle went up further than it should) That lasted for 6 months till the vehicle was scrapped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 After reading your post Tony I had a flash back......plastic padding! Just had a quick look and they do a sump sealer paste, ideal, thanks for the inspiration! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Belzona do too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 My experience of the Plastic Padding one, don't bother! Thats why I tried the Plassteel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singaeger Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Go find a structural steelwork fabricator! they will know where they get the galvanising protection done for outdoor steelwork. get the galvanisers to dip the sump into there vat of liquid nickle. this will do two things 1. stop it from rusting again. 2. fill pin holes up with solid metal. this is a pernament and quality method of repair. It also works for petrol tanks so long as the rust does not substantualy weeken the base metal. the only issue is that the sump may distort slightly due to the heat of the hot nickle when dipped. this should not be a problem as it should pull straight when re tightened onto the block, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 Is the sump single or double skinned? PITA to seal/get good adhesion if there is oil between the two layers. :mad: Got that tee-shirt....... Alec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted June 12, 2013 Share Posted June 12, 2013 the only issue is that the sump may distort slightly due to the heat of the hot nickle when dipped. this should not be a problem as it should pull straight when re tightened onto the block, Given the small screws that retain the sump and that it seals against the end main bearings and there is soldered parts in the V8 sump, this method is definitely not recommended. If there are minor pin holes or spot welds leaking on the bottom, best thing is to solder or lead the local area of leakage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 12, 2013 Author Share Posted June 12, 2013 I found the area of te pin hole and applied a small mount of epoxy sealant, should be fine now! Will retest in a couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.