Vulture Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 You know what its like, you set your stall out to tackle one job, and give yourself another unwelcome one when you make a start. Attempting to change the passenger side rear brake hose, resulted in this, inspite of the liberal application of penetating oil over several days :embarrassed: :banghead: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 :??? And you want what? Sympathy? :hug: Just one of those things. Catches all of us out sometimes. Often a good rap with a hammer on flats while holding a larger hammer or heavy block on other side will help break the rust seal and allow penetrating fluid in. But that's gone way past the point of no return :red: Looks like a 'cut back pipe and insert new section with in-line coupler' kind of weekend. Or a new bit of pipe. Which means a flaring tool. And maybe a coupler - ah that's a difficult one. 'Hello Rex!' ....... 'Oh not you again!!!' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 It would be worth your while looking at all your brake pipes both steel and rubber while your thinking about replacing this one. Rust formed around the union nut so that its frozen to the pipe may be a indication that you have issues with the steel pipe underneath. I can see from your photo that the rubber pipes have been painted by the previous owner,this is not a good practise as the thinner/paint can attack the hose over time and also it makes it difficult to detect natural deterioration of the hose with time. For the cost of a set of pipes and a days work I'd recommend it, your going to have do a full system bleed anyway when you replace the pipe that's screwed. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted June 29, 2012 Author Share Posted June 29, 2012 It would be worth your while looking at all your brake pipes both steel and rubber while your thinking about replacing this one. Rust formed around the union nut so that its frozen to the pipe may be a indication that you have issues with the steel pipe underneath. I can see from your photo that the rubber pipes have been painted by the previous owner,this is not a good practise as the thinner/paint can attack the hose over time and also it makes it difficult to detect natural deterioration of the hose with time. For the cost of a set of pipes and a days work I'd recommend it, your going to have do a full system bleed anyway when you replace the pipe that's screwed. Pete Hi Pete On getting the vehicle last July my brother took great delight in pointing out a bulge in the drivers side front hose. As all the hoses look the same age (v old) I bought a complete set off Rex Ward. I replaced the one with a bulge straight away, and have been meaning to do the others for months and months. I agree with you re the condition of the pipe. Looking at the one one the other side, the condition looks identical, so I'll probably have the same problem :-(. I've just come off the phone with Rex Ward. He's going to make me some pipes up to collect next week. I'll get myself some fuel and oil filters bits and pieces at the same time. Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Eh, :red: Glad to know I'm not the only one though. Nipped a flexible pipe on Katy by not running it quite right. Frost's do a useful little brake pipe bending tool for about £20. Go for Cupro nickel brake pipe. No rust and easily worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 Best option Vulture, brakes steering and tyres are the three most important items to keep maintained. If it stops you can always get it started again, but if it wont stop or you cant steer it your b###ed :eek: Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big ray Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 If it will not go you have a potential problem to deal with, if it will not stop you have a potential disaster on your hands. At this moment in time we as a club are discussing / proposing to have regular maintenance talks, particularly on our less busy meeting during the winter months. We are very fortunate that we have vehicles at varying stages of restoration where we conduct our monthly meetings, this will allow both practical and theory instruction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted June 29, 2012 Share Posted June 29, 2012 At this moment in time we as a club are discussing / proposing to have regular maintenance talks, particularly on our less busy meeting during the winter months. We are very fortunate that we have vehicles at varying stages of restoration where we conduct our monthly meetings, this will allow both practical and theory instruction. In view of the discussion going on elsewhere on MoT's that sounds like a very good idea Ray . I do wonder if there is mileage in having a separate section on the forum where mechanical issues/problems can be discussed regardless of origin or age of vehicle. The biggest thing is not being afraid to ask the question in the first place. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 Does anyone sell/reproduce those frame fittings? Even if you heat them up to loosen them they may be corroded beyond reuse.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Eh, :red: Glad to know I'm not the only one though. Nipped a flexible pipe on Katy by not running it quite right. Frost's do a useful little brake pipe bending tool for about £20. Go for Cupro nickel brake pipe. No rust and easily worked. Hi Tony I assume you your talking about this: http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-brakes-tools/brake-pipe-and-tube-bender.html Good thinking, I'll see about ordering one today. Talking of which, should I be getting some of this as well ? http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-brakes-tools/brake-and-pipe-seal-75ml.html In my limited experience :n00b: with changing brake pipes (which until getting the truck was over 25 years ago) I must confess I've never used a sealant. Looks a good idea though ? Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Best option Vulture, brakes steering and tyres are the three most important items to keep maintained. If it stops you can always get it started again, but if it wont stop or you cant steer it your b###ed :eek: Pete What you say is all very true Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 In view of the discussion going on elsewhere on MoT's that sounds like a very good idea Ray . I do wonder if there is mileage in having a separate section on the forum where mechanical issues/problems can be discussed regardless of origin or age of vehicle. The biggest thing is not being afraid to ask the question in the first place. Pete I know I might be out of step with many members over the MOT thing, but a mandated (and relatively inexpensive) bi-annual safety check which accounted for the design age of the vehicle I would have thought would be a good thing for overall safety within the hobby. (Puts on steel helmet, and runs for cover...) At a trade fair I've attended in the last 12 months I was really shocked :shocked: at the condition of a MV that had driven there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted June 30, 2012 Author Share Posted June 30, 2012 Does anyone sell/reproduce those frame fittings? Even if you heat them up to loosen them they may be corroded beyond reuse.... Errrrr :undecided: are you talking about the bit that is riveted to the frame just above the brake brake pipe ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 (edited) Hi Tony I assume you your talking about this: http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-brakes-tools/brake-pipe-and-tube-bender.html Good thinking, I'll see about ordering one today. Talking of which, should I be getting some of this as well ? http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-brakes-tools/brake-and-pipe-seal-75ml.html In my limited experience :n00b: with changing brake pipes (which until getting the truck was over 25 years ago) I must confess I've never used a sealant. Looks a good idea though ? Vulture That bender is a lot cheaper than the Sykes Pickavant one I got, and should do the job! Sealant? Would certainly help disguise shoddy workmanship I guess, but should not be necessary (note to self - order some sealer... :blush:) P.S. I found that double flares are a lot easier to get to seal properly, so if buying a pipe flaring tool spend a bit more on the double flare one. Deadline's Bulkhead fittings (through frame) are available, but from what I remember the hoses come with extended ends threaded internally/ externally and are held in the frame by the nut - the steel union pipe then threads into the end of the hose fitting. Fit hose on cylinder first, then poke through frame, get 'twist' correct and clamp with nut. Edited June 30, 2012 by N.O.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted June 30, 2012 Share Posted June 30, 2012 If it all fits properly you shouldn't need any sealant. You may have to get it undone one day. Invest in a pressure bleeder as well, that will save the rest of your lifetime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 Errrrr :undecided: are you talking about the bit that is riveted to the frame just above the brake brake pipe ? No, the actual fitting that goes through the frame... that you screw the brakes line into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony B Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 No, the actual fitting that goes through the frame... that you screw the brakes line into. I think those bits are probably generic. After all brake fittings are a standard set of threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 You need to speak to Rex Ward - there are variations. I vaguely remember the chassis transit pieces were introduced for the DUKW where you could fit them and then all the hose work could be done outside the hull. There are longer and shorter hoses, hose protectors - as I said, a few variants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted July 1, 2012 Share Posted July 1, 2012 No, the actual fitting that goes through the frame... that you screw the brakes line into. If you study Vulture's photos I think you'll find that is the end of the flexi hose - the arrangement being as I described in post 14. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted July 1, 2012 Author Share Posted July 1, 2012 If you study Vulture's photos I think you'll find that is the end of the flexi hose - the arrangement being as I described in post 14. Indeed it is. One end (of the flexi hose) screws into the hub, the other goes through the chassis and is secured with the bolt. Short of time to do anything today other than have a good crawl around. Looking at the position of the bleed nipples on the Hyrovac, is it just me, or are they going to be awkward/difficult to get a spanner on ? As an aside stumbled across this great little vid today: - [video=youtube_share;daVDrGsaDME] - Regards to all Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted July 2, 2012 Share Posted July 2, 2012 After tearing into three MV's having extra bits left over seems to be the norm.... I could have made another truck (well, almost) with all the steel I've cut off my MVs. What I want to see is a video where they collect all the grease/grime from one MV into a pile. Then have it spring into life and walk away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Just something for information Vulture if and when you should make your own, all brake pipes should be double flared, the reason behind this is single flares can under pressure fail and pull through the union nut. Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 Just something for information Vulture if and when you should make your own, all brake pipes should be double flared, the reason behind this is single flares can under pressure fail and pull through the union nut. Pete Pete Ahhhhhh, hadn't appreciated that :n00b:, thanks for the info. What do we think about this tool ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PC-IMPERIAL-PIPE-BRAKE-DOUBLE-FLARING-TOOL-KIT-SET-/390340506406 Whilst Rex Ward is making me a couple of lengths up at the moment, I will need to replace more pipe in the future. Regards Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) Pete What do we think about this tool ? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10PC-IMPERIAL-PIPE-BRAKE-DOUBLE-FLARING-TOOL-KIT-SET-/390340506406 Regards Vulture You will find it very hard to make good flares with this sort of tool I'm afraid. The truth is that good double flaring tools are not cheap I haven't bought one for years but would expect to pay between £50 and £100 for a reasonable tool. Sykes Pikavant or Snap on will be double that price but you don't need that standard of tooling. Bottom line is this, brakes and brake lines are the single most important bit of kit on the whole truck so they have to be right. Pete Edited July 3, 2012 by Pete Ashby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 Personally I use one of these http://www.ridgidtoolsdirect.com/product.php/124/ridgid_345_flaring_tool Well worth the money if you want a good job done, you are doing brake pipes after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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