warrior Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 HI ALL Nearly ready for road testing my gmc project, i need to change engine and gearbox oils, what oil and grade do you chaps recommend? morris oils seem popular. Cheers Warrior:cheesy: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted April 20, 2012 Share Posted April 20, 2012 This has been discussed on a number of previous occasions and is in part being discussed in a current thread. General consensus of opinion is straight 30 grade in the engine and straight 90 (not EP) in the transmission but there are other opinions particularly from one of our transatlantic cousins who holds rather strong views. Both myself and a lot of others on here would recommend the relevant Morris products. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted April 21, 2012 Share Posted April 21, 2012 (edited) HI ALLNearly ready for road testing my gmc project, i need to change engine and gearbox oils, what oil and grade do you chaps recommend? morris oils seem popular. Cheers Warrior:cheesy: Hi Warrior Here in the UK Comma do a range of oils which are readily available in lots of outlets. I've used their Classic 30 in my CCKW. As for the Gearbox and Diffs, as Degsy says, there are differing opinions held on the forum over whether to use GL4 or GL5. IMHO, given what I've read, both will probably be okay, but myself I've still to make a final decision... I'm sure you've seen it, but this thread is the one to follow. Link. Kind regards Vulture P.S. Care to share a photo of your truck ? Edited April 21, 2012 by Vulture Add a link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) Shell Rotella or Mobile Delvac brand 15-40 or straight 30 weight is probably the best choice. Its a heavy duty diesel oil. You REALLY want an API CF, CG-4 or CH-4 spec oil... or the European equivalent. The reason is that most 'S' API rated oils SJ, SL, SM have virtually eliminated the ZINC flat tappet valve lifters need for lubrication. Since passenger cars have bits that can be damaged by zinc in the exhaust (O2 sensors and Catalytic converts) API 'S' (passenger car/gasoline engines) have been much quicker to remove zinc than the diesel oils. You can use API 'S' rated oils but I would recommend a zinc additive (google zinc oil additive) and it generally abbreviated ZDDP. A bottle can be $10-15... so its much cheaper to use diesel engine oils. GMC 270's are tough motors, but they most likely are going to be pretty worn.... and 270 parts ain't cheap. And run GL-5. And don't forget the cardboard! Edited April 23, 2012 by deadline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 (edited) "There used to be 1,400-1,500 zinc ppm in [passenger-car] motor oils, about where [shell] Rotella [diesel-truck] oil is now." 'Zinc accumulation mainly affects oxygen sensors and catalytic converters, which are very sensitive to the ash that may accumulate on them." Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/#ixzz1sq2uZ6Ss Sorry to get all Bill-Ney-the-Science-Guy on everyone... but there be myths that need busting! Mobil says: ". For products that meet the new ILSAC GF-5 specification the phosphorus levels for the oil must be less than 800 ppm phosphorus. The ILSAC level for phosphorus has been reduced to protect the catalytic converter and other emission protection equipment. The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines" http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Zinc_Motor_Oils.aspx So a car oil has roughly HALF AS MUCH of that good zinc/phosphorus we need. That's why its important to look for that CF, CG-4 or CH-4 spec on the label. Edited April 23, 2012 by deadline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrior Posted May 4, 2012 Author Share Posted May 4, 2012 Hi Warrior Here in the UK Comma do a range of oils which are readily available in lots of outlets. I've used their Classic 30 in my CCKW. As for the Gearbox and Diffs, as Degsy says, there are differing opinions held on the forum over whether to use GL4 or GL5. IMHO, given what I've read, both will probably be okay, but myself I've still to make a final decision... I'm sure you've seen it, but this thread is the one to follow. Link. Kind regards Vulture P.S. Care to share a photo of your truck ? Hi Vulture Here's a couple of pics of my truck, found it in some woods a couple years ago with no body, repaired cab waistband and door bottoms, found a body for sale in yorkshire, had to replace stake pockets, put new valves in head, s'steel exhaust, new canvases,now saving up for some petrol, lots of small jobs still to do, seem to take twice as long as they should do! warrior:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Degsy Posted May 4, 2012 Share Posted May 4, 2012 Looking good, well done.:thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted May 5, 2012 Share Posted May 5, 2012 Hi Vulture Here's a couple of pics of my truck, found it in some woods a couple years ago with no body, repaired cab waistband and door bottoms, found a body for sale in yorkshire, had to replace stake pockets, put new valves in head, s'steel exhaust, new canvases,now saving up for some petrol, lots of small jobs still to do, seem to take twice as long as they should do! warrior:-) [ATTACH=CONFIG]61152[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]61153[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]61154[/ATTACH] Hey Warrior, looks like you've done a great job there :clap:. It was certainly looking pretty tatty when you got it ! I like the bit, "saving for petrol", I soooooo know what you mean ! Kind regards Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrior Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hey Warrior, looks like you've done a great job there :clap:. It was certainly looking pretty tatty when you got it ! I like the bit, "saving for petrol", I soooooo know what you mean ! Kind regards Vulture Hi Vulture Seemed like a good idea at the time when some body i knew phoned me and said he'd seen an old truck in some woods,only needs a bit of work ha,ha here's a couple more pics before and after. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hey Warrior - the before pic shows a bare cab roof, the after shots show a nice roof lining. How would I go about getting one of those? Thanks, Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 It also looks like you've gone with electric wipers.........oh hang on, they were in there already :cool2: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Warrior, I'm envious of the nice dry facilities you have there !!! How long have you been working on the truck now ? Apart from stencils it looks about finished ? Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrior Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Hey Warrior - the before pic shows a bare cab roof, the after shots show a nice roof lining. How would I go about getting one of those? Thanks, Tony Hi Tony Got the roof lining from the states, go to http://www.oldcchevytrucks.com, on the menu go to 34-46 truck parts, they call them headliners over there, part no up2071 35.5 dollers comes in two pieces,ok Cheers Warrior Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 Thanks, very much - how did you cope with freight to UK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrior Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Thanks, very much - how did you cope with freight to UK? No problem, because the roof lining is made of thick fiber board and it is two pieces, they roll it up and post in a tube. can't remember the cost, you should be ok for import duty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted May 7, 2012 Share Posted May 7, 2012 :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
warrior Posted May 7, 2012 Author Share Posted May 7, 2012 Warrior, I'm envious of the nice dry facilities you have there !!! How long have you been working on the truck now ? Apart from stencils it looks about finished ? Vulture Started out doing it in a field about 18 months ago, alright till the autumn comes, thankfully I have a good MV mate who lets me use his workshop, got a couple of other MVs dotted about in other places, have to keep hiding them from the other half, she'd sooner have a new kitchen than a green thing with smelly canvas. :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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