44GPW Posted December 18, 2011 Share Posted December 18, 2011 Hi guys, Instead of buying Jeep no 3, i have decided to buy a Bedford MW and hope to do this within the next couple of months. Any hits and tips on buying and ownership, good or bad, would be appreciated. Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bedford Boys Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 (edited) Bedford MW's are absolutely brilliant trucks. Parts for the running gear are easily sourced as many can be found on later model bedfords aswell. Any 214ci Bedford motor will fit into an MW, as long as you change the fly wheel and bellhousing to that of the MW. On some model 214's, this involves dropping the rear main cap off so you can punch out the extra two fly wheel locating dowels. Also, if you want to be able to start the motor with a crank handle, you will have to change the front mounting plate to that of the MW, so the motor sits lower and the fan doesn't clip the shroud. Brake cylinders always seem to need sleeving. You can find the same rear brake cylinders on J-series, RL, K, M, O (If memory serves correct). Brake master cylinder seals are readily available, as are front brake seals. An MW pulls about 40mph, but anything over that and you are revving it a bit hard in my experience. Diff ratios can be changed to suit road driving with a 4.7 diff from a J-series I am told. 1st gear is only an ornament, you will never use it unless going up a vertical wall. I start off in 2nd gear, however it will pull from a stand still in 3rd gear easily. There is certainly no lack of power. Working on them is a joy. They are well thought out and very basic. Nothing is too much of a challenge. Driving an MW on road is a pleasurable experience. You hardly ever need to change out of top gear. But offroad is were I love driving them. They go very well offroad for a 4x2, only being let down by those crap bar tread tyres. Having said that, they trudge through mud very well and having a bit of weight on the back will help with traction. Fuel consumption is not at all bad. The MW I drive does more miles per gallon than my fathers S2a Landrover! :-D All in all, they are excellent trucks with no real downfall other than not being able to keep up with traffic as standard, but that is just like most other ww2 MV's. Pop the higher ratio diff in and that won't be an issue :cool2: Basically, go for it. Had more fun in an MW than I've had in a Jeep. :drive: Edited December 19, 2011 by The Bedford Boys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
44GPW Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 Great information.....thanks. How do i identify an original engine? What areas of the body are prone to rot? Any features i should look for to identify originallity? Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Great information.....thanks. How do i identify an original engine? Hi Richard, To see if you have an original wartime military engine, check the engine number stamped above the fuel pump, it should start "MW", but do not be put off it is "OY" or "OX", as the army could have fitted it during a rebuild. You are highly unlikely to find one of these vehicles still with the engine fitted at the factory. Saying that, I know of a Morris Commercial in Suffolk that has its original engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bedford Boys Posted December 19, 2011 Share Posted December 19, 2011 Great information.....thanks. How do i identify an original engine? What areas of the body are prone to rot? Any features i should look for to identify originallity? Thanks Richard As Richard says, look for the MW prefix to the engine number. If you were a real purist and wanted to fit a genuine MW engine, I know of a couple here in NZ, although they would need complete rebuilds. The ones we see here in NZ are usually completely knackered, but the rot seems to be in the front lip of the front guards and the bottom corners of the firewall where they go really badly. Basically, do the usual check of wherever water can sit. Chassis number is between the step brackets on the drivers side (If memory serves correct) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minesweeper Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 (edited) Did a short - two weeks only - Army Driving Course in one in 1959 - 13RE80 - that was in Sussex. Happy memories of driving it! The Driving Test was driving from Maresfield to Bognor Regis. When did they finally go out of service with the Army? Tony Edited December 20, 2011 by Minesweeper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
44GPW Posted December 20, 2011 Author Share Posted December 20, 2011 Guys, Great info thats really going to help me in my quest for an MW. Please keep the hints and tips coming. Just anoter thing on the engine, if its unlikely to find an MW with its original powerplant, what will then be the next best correct/acceptable engine. For example, Jeeps can have MB or GPW engines (both correct), next best is a post war CJ engine (not correct but works) and finally a Ford Capri engine (not correct and horrible). Do you understand where i'm coming from?? What would not be correct to have in an MW (what do i avoid). Also, how do you id a correct gearbox. Thanks again. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fayjo56 Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Good luck with your quest. I have always liked MW's and was lucky to get one to restore recently, (see my resto thread). I havent driven mine yet (obviously), in fact I havent even steered it! But I love it already. Also the help on here is fantastic! :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Theres an MW for sale on the site here for not a lot of money....I'll find the thread in a mo....I know a very good restorer by the way - oh hang on - its me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Just anoter thing on the engine, if its unlikely to find an MW with its original powerplant, what will then be the next best correct/acceptable engine. What would not be correct to have in an MW (what do i avoid). Richard, I think you missunderstood about "original" engines, by that we mean the actaul one fitted from new. They will nearly all have replacements, but they will be Bedfords of some sort. The one fitted from new was the 28hp, then in early 50's, Bedfords introduced an "Extra duty" model, a bit improved, then later on the 214, all of which are the same capacity and visual looks, but more power than the old 28hp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted December 20, 2011 Share Posted December 20, 2011 Here we go - one MW and for pennies. Doesnt look like one I know but I am pretty certain that is what it is under there.http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?27448-bedford-oyd-swb-single-wheel-for-sale-barn-stored-since-1959&p=287619#post287619 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
44GPW Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Thanks Richard, understand about the engines now. One i'm looking at has an OY stamped serail number. Paul, thanks for link but i'm wanting ones that already done as i already have a Jeep project in progess. Cheers Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
44GPW Posted December 21, 2011 Author Share Posted December 21, 2011 Guys, Anyone got a photo of the rear of an MW. I'm particularly interested in the "Bump Stops" and correct rear lighting. Thanks Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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