senschu Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 Is this an original body for a late 44 Ford GPW,is the rust treatable,or far to gone,and what is the steel folder for under the bonnet.Purports to be a Dec 44 Ford,any help gratefully appreciated Senschu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 (edited) From the limited amount I can see in your photos it looks like it could be a genuine AMC2 body post Jan 1944, round locker lock pressings and stiffening gussets from the rear panel to the locker sides indicate this or it could be a Willy's tub either way it looks genuine, the locker lids are Ford pressed while for AMC2 bodies they were flat small point and not worth bothering about. The carb is wrong it's not a wartime Carter, looks like a post war addition the oil dip stick is of the early type pre Feb 1943, radiator looks to be Ford and you seem to have a original horn. The CVC box is missing not a problem and the 6v generator has been replaced by alternator so I guess it’s been converted to 12v again no big deal to put right just a bit of cash. The dash looks to be not cut about and the instruments look like wartime or good repro and the dash plates look to be originals. The windscreen looks like it has early Bronze hold down catches pre Sep 1942The holder under the bonnet is for the lubrication chart. By the way what is the frame like? there are no pictures of it to be able to make an assessment. As to the rust nothing is a problem as long as you have either the money and or the ability to put it right everything for jeeps are now available delivered to your door, see the various dealers’ web sites for information and prices. Basically it boils down to how much the vehicle is being offered for, there is obviously some body filler but I would expect that in a genuine tub 66 years old. From what I can see (and you really need to see and hear the vehicle running) not bad at the right price but be prepared to spend a year or so bring it up to scratch. But I would suggest you take someone who has a little knowledge along if you are not sure. Pete Edited September 10, 2011 by Pete Ashby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
earlymb Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 The holes in the rear crossmember of the frame (behind the bumperettes) indicate it is a Ford frame, but I would need to see the front crossmember (under the grille) or the shockabsorber mounting brackets to confirm. Most of the bodywork on jeep bodies is quite simple to fabricate if needed. Greetz David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Ashby Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 The holes in the rear crossmember of the frame (behind the bumperettes) indicate it is a Ford frame, but I would need to see the front crossmember (under the grille) or the shockabsorber mounting brackets to confirm. David Looking at the photos again David is right, the rear view would indicate a Ford frame but we would need to see the front cross member (under the rad) to be sure. The windscreen frame certainly does appear to be early as I can't see any indication of brackets for a rifle mount. I would hazard a guess it's a fairly typical war time/post war British Army rebuild nothing wrong with that at all. Do you have the frame number and the engine number? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Willyslancs Posted September 10, 2011 Share Posted September 10, 2011 it will be worth it the end mate .at least its not as bad as ours was !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulbrook Posted September 14, 2011 Share Posted September 14, 2011 In essence the rust is easy to deal with (well. relatively easy). There are virtually no compound curves so life is quite peachy in terms of tinbashing. But the real dillemma (and one that plenty of folk I deal with wrestle with) is where you have a complete and running machine. To really get to grips with rot you need to get at it. To get at it you need to remove stuff, and that seems a shame and a lot of hard work. Which it is. I have done lots of this sort of thing (www.rustytrucks.com) and I can promise that it will be worse than it looks. That is not to be pessimistic, it is just healthy reality. On the upside your jeep is well worth the effort and as I say, straightforward to do. I did one years ago (pre hobby MIG) that had come back from the Falklands after the war and was so rotten that it had been folded in half by a forklift. Get down to Dunelm (thats right - the fabrics place) and buy half a dozen storage boxes (at £2.99 apiece), strip out the bits near the rust and label and store them properly and then go for it. I know a splendid blast cleaning team if you need that sort of work (and before anyone says "ooooooo no blast cleaning blew holes in my morris minor" these folks can take the paint off a beercan without marking the aluminium and the paint off a lightbulb so a Jeep tub is going to be just fine..) If you want any advice, pm me and I will try and help out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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