cosrec Posted May 1, 2013 Author Share Posted May 1, 2013 Air cleaner was in a proper state although to be fair its the first time i have looked since getting truck and when the vehicle was first delivered covered in the finest sand /dust i have ever seen. All oilevels were checked and no signs of any bad leaks. While i was underneath i removed the tranfer box oil pump and stripped it examining for wear. Thankfully it seemed perfect. I am paranoid about this pump as i had one cock up on a gun tractor that i ran and it cost me a lot of money to rebuild the transfer box. I think it well worth a hours labour for peace of mind. Tomorrow its its change engine oil filters steam off and if time may give it a quick flash over with the spray gun where its looking a bit rough. Nothing fancy though as it will be going into firms colours when we can get our spray man motivatete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 3, 2013 Author Share Posted May 3, 2013 while i was greasing truck i had back legs down and i put a hefty blob of grease under the springs and on top of the axle casings. been for a run today and the banging under axle wind up has gone may not be the approved way but its quitened it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southall wizard Posted May 4, 2013 Share Posted May 4, 2013 while i was greasing truck i had back legs down and i put a hefty blob of grease under the springs and on top of the axle casings. been for a run today and the banging under axle wind up has gone may not be the approved way but its quitened it down. Hi Steve,I had to replace the short shaft on the offside front it is a major strip out to get the shaft out.so I like yourself have become fanatical about keeping them well greased,I don't quite know how they sheared the shaft in two must have had the axle locked and crossed on the road.i will post some pics of the strip out. Regards, Andy butler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwalker Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 Is there a some way to tell, visually, if diff locks are locked (stuck) in the engaged position? Rgds, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 Hi Steve,I had to replace the short shaft on the offside front it is a major strip out to get the shaft out.so I like yourself have become fanatical about keeping them well greased,I don't quite know how they sheared the shaft in two must have had the axle locked and crossed on the road.i will post some pics of the strip out.Regards, Andy butler cheers would appreciate that although hope i dont have to do it regards Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) Is there a some way to tell, visually, if diff locks are locked (stuck) in the engaged position? Rgds, Dan Start with the front axle looking at the airpot that engages it. Make sure the arm it presses is as far to the left as it will go and has slack on the clevis eg got movement on it. My one had not the clevis was siezed and took a heft smack with hammer to retract the air pot fully . after you have done this on the front axle you will sus what i mean and then check the other three each rear axle and inter axle lock. Will put some pics on if it helps. once this is sorted the warning lights on the dash should tell if they are engaged or not (tongue in cheek cos the wiring to all mine was shot) Edited May 10, 2013 by cosrec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwalker Posted May 10, 2013 Share Posted May 10, 2013 That is really helpful, thanks. Does engaging the diff lock pressurize the airpot or release pressure from it?? Are the airpots prone to seize up inside or is it the external linkages that seized? A suppose a good spray of wd40 will help? Rgds, Dan PS I went to Llandudno at w/e where I got a big snatch block which I believe is for this truck. It looks sound. Start with the front axle looking at the airpot that engages it. Make sure the arm it presses is as far to the left as it will go and has slack on the clevis eg got movement on it. My one had not the clevis was siezed and took a heft smack with hammer to retract the air pot fully . after you have done this on the front axle you will sus what i mean and then check the other three each rear axle and inter axle lock. Will put some pics on if it helps. once this is sorted the warning lights on the dash should tell if they are engaged or not (tongue in cheek cos the wiring to all mine was shot) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 The air pot relies on pressure to engage the difflock. The air pot cant sieze as such it only has a rubber diaphram in it . On mine the clevis pin through the yolk had siezed. But the shaft through the axle could possibly sieze also. If after using mine with diff locks all round i still find the front one still sticks in some times despite knowing every thing is free ( my wiring to warning light is still shot) Symptom the Steering fights back when pulling ot of field in lock on to hard road. Only cure i have found is get vehicle running straight eg wheels straight ahead stop reverse then start again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 10, 2013 Author Share Posted May 10, 2013 That is really helpful, thanks. Does engaging the diff lock pressurize the airpot or release pressure from it?? Are the airpots prone to seize up inside or is it the external linkages that seized? A suppose a good spray of wd40 will help? Rgds, DanPS I went to Llandudno at w/e where I got a big snatch block which I believe is for this truck. It looks sound. The snatch block is worth its wieght in gold if you ever had to use it in anger. Is it a Fellows or Ansell if so you would be suprised what dealers/ operators will pay for them. Wether you use it or not keep it well greased and spinning it wont lose money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwalker Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 I have just cleaned the block off, greased it and am going to paint it. (It had a lot of light surface rust). It says "Ansell Jones". I noticed a bit of damage (see 2nd photo, LHS). I suppose I ought to get it tested somewhere. But I am not going to be pulling massive loads with it. More a case of making the ces as complete as possible within reason. I am looking forward to when I can next get down to the truck and check out the diff locks. Rgds, Dan The snatch block is worth its wieght in gold if you ever had to use it in anger. Is it a Fellows or Ansell if so you would be suprised what dealers/ operators will pay for them. Wether you use it or not keep it well greased and spinning it wont lose money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted May 11, 2013 Share Posted May 11, 2013 How about jacking up one wheel to check what is happening with diff and diff lock? (quick way :-D) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 12, 2013 Author Share Posted May 12, 2013 How about jacking up one wheel to check what is happening with diff and diff lock? (quick way :-D) Yep thats another way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 When i first started this thread i had a few people ask how much it it would carry when modified to day i found out much it cant carry will put pic on on as soon as i recieve it on my e mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwalker Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 What happened? Nothing broke? No-one hurt? When i first started this thread i had a few people ask how much it it would carry when modified to day i found out much it cant carry will put pic on on as soon as i recieve it on my e mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djwalker Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Roughly what load?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 (edited) Reminds me of this picture May have been on here before. The first picture by the way shows me lowering it down after it reared. I had actually driven it prior to this and it was still steerable wieght approx 10 ton front of body i am lifting is ballasted with concrete and scrap not clear from picture but under lift is stopping it rearing even more. will put another picture on when i get it Edited May 31, 2013 by cosrec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 [ATTACH=CONFIG]77296[/ATTACH] Could be a result of stripping out all the electrical circuitry and safe load switches ... oh and rear legs not deployed. I have a photo somewhere of a Leyland Martian lifting an airdrop frame with a Land Rover on it, suspension locks were not in, the operator only realised when the glass of beer he was holding started to slop over the side! :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 (edited) Another picture my mate sent of Foden Clearly see under lift holding machine up. It reared after i had driven it across yard steering seemed ok. When i backed up load must have swung away from back of machine. Boogie blocker was deployed hence why back axle tyres flat i reckon about 12 ton on each rear tyre What ever i now no what is foolhardy to try with it. It handled same load fine through out 180 degrees with legsdown. also a couple more jobs its sorted out These are the sort of jobs it makes look easy backup across field picture was taken after it moved about 10ft forward rear wheels about out of sight defeated attempts of two quadtracs to move it over the course of 2 weeks Edited June 2, 2013 by cosrec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fesm_ndt Posted July 17, 2013 Share Posted July 17, 2013 Like i said if they are any good to anyone there here I realise ages ago but was just discussing this box in another thread, do you still have them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted July 17, 2013 Author Share Posted July 17, 2013 I realise ages ago but was just discussing this box in another thread, do you still have them? Hi sorry it got took to scrapyard a month or so ago along with a host of other come in useful bits that i know i will regret throwing some day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 Foden let us down to day. It wouldnt lift or do any thing or do anything at any speed or with any power. it has done it three times before but only intermediately then being fine. I am convinced the high pressure hydraulic filters have become blocked. I used to have the part nos for them and they are the same as fitted to the Scammell Eka but i cant find anywhere Any one able to help Please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffHall Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 I'll have a look what hydraulic filters are on my Scammell tomorrow, I just tried looking up the NSN PN from the IPL & I think it relates to the housing only, not the screw on element. If the system is similar to the Scammell EKA then the filters sit in the return lines to the tank, I doubt very much they'd survive long if blocked as they're LP only. The parts dwgs show filters inside the hyd pumps also, presumably to protect the internals from sucking debris out the hyd oil tank? If intermittent & now failed totally it sounds more like a relief valve stuck open, although if its low flow into the pump(s)? it might be worth looking at the pump inlet side, I don't imagine they'd like being starved of oil long before doing damage.. Fingers X'd it's simple.. Regards Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosrec Posted October 21, 2013 Author Share Posted October 21, 2013 I'll have a look what hydraulic filters are on my Scammell tomorrow, I just tried looking up the NSN PN from the IPL & I think it relates to the housing only, not the screw on element. If the system is similar to the Scammell EKA then the filters sit in the return lines to the tank, I doubt very much they'd survive long if blocked as they're LP only. The parts dwgs show filters inside the hyd pumps also, presumably to protect the internals from sucking debris out the hyd oil tank? If intermittent & now failed totally it sounds more like a relief valve stuck open, although if its low flow into the pump(s)? it might be worth looking at the pump inlet side, I don't imagine they'd like being starved of oil long before doing damage.. Fingers X'd it's simple.. Regards Jeff Hi its not getting enough pressure to lift relief valves you can hear them hiss when they blow off they don't. (i have taken the pressure gauge off so don't know what pressure it is going to) Only had a quick look yesterday but the pumps have the big diameter pipes going in the pressure pipes coming out go into two filter housings then on to the valve block. I remember scammell EKA had identical filter housings near crane pivot between chassis rails. will have another look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffHall Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 Has the Foden got the same dual hydraulic pump setup with one pump doing everything except the 2 high power motors on the main winch? The hydraulic schematic for the Scammell EKA doesn't show any HP side filtration, only the two you mention between where the boom pivots. They're spin-on std oil filter style, or at least mine are.. As has been talked about in the past though, my boom takes an age to close that final stage under gravity, a helping hand using your winch cable method works so maybe my filters could do with swapping, either that or the liberal application of grease is needed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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