Vulture Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 My brother spotted that the drivers side front brake hose in my CCKW 352 has a bulge in it. Looking round the vehicle the remaining five hoses all look the same age, so I'm thinking its time to change them all. A complete set of six from Rex Ward will set me back £100. I've spotted these on E-Bay for £45. Link What do we think ? Anyone else used any from this company ? Has anyone had any made up for them ? If so how much did that cost you ? Thanks for your help Kind regards to all Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted August 13, 2011 Share Posted August 13, 2011 I'd be inclined to use E-Bay for most things like this, in fact I can get new brake hose sets for my VC Dodges on there, but made outside the country. That said, if I was replacing any brake part on a GMC I'd just spend the extra money and get exactly the right thing from Rex. There are variations too, since hose lengths and fittings were changed a bit for wire-protectors and the like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted August 13, 2011 Author Share Posted August 13, 2011 I'd be inclined to use E-Bay for most things like this, in fact I can get new brake hose sets for my VC Dodges on there, but made outside the country. That said, if I was replacing any brake part on a GMC I'd just spend the extra money and get exactly the right thing from Rex. There are variations too, since hose lengths and fittings were changed a bit for wire-protectors and the like. Gordon After crawling around the truck this afternoon, I've decided to take things one step at a time. I'll order a single front hose from Rex, and see how I get on. You can see the bulge in the old one, and when you press there it feels soft. Annoyingly, the bleed valve/nipple is totally buggered, so I need to get a new one of those as well. It might be a real challenge to get it out in fact. Kind regards to all Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon_M Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 Yes, that one is definitely in the bin, it is the ordinary full length hose, rather than the later modification which had provision for wire protection. It will not want to come off easily, they never do. They are a bit like exhaust systems in that one bit blows and you replace it, then you find every bit you are trying to connect to could really do with replacing as well. On the assumption that you are keeping the truck I'd start thinking about spare copper washers for the union joints, maybe about replacing some of the solid pipes. Buy at least a pair of front hoses and take Rex's advice as to what small spares to have on hand. The only encouragement I can offer is that it is a lot easier to re-plumb a GMC than a DUKW, and I did a DUKW all on my own, just one piece at a time. I'm not sure if that GMC has it too, but there might be an isolation tap for the front brakes on the chassis side under the passengers feet. I wouldn't be surprised to find it had been shut off and you are just braking on the back axles. If it will close easily it will save you a lot of bleeding when fitting your new front hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 .... I'm not sure if that GMC has it too, but there might be an isolation tap for the front brakes on the chassis side under the passengers feet. I wouldn't be surprised to find it had been shut off and you are just braking on the back axles. If it will close easily it will save you a lot of bleeding when fitting your new front hoses. Good point Gordon and yes, the trucks have that tap too. Vulture - you're in deep with the GMC now, no going back, so I would urge you to bite the bullet and change all the brake hoses - they could all be in similar condition, and just think of the cost as buying safety and peace of mind Ask Rex about engine oil when you order the hoses (and all the other stuff you'll need :wow:). And get some O.D. top coat on that grey primer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R Cubed Posted August 14, 2011 Share Posted August 14, 2011 An important note to remember is they only have one circuit so your brakes are only as good as the worst bit of pipe or hose........ It only takes one split and no brakes at all. Do it all now and don't worry for the next many years. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradcckw Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 (edited) Im currently replumbing my entire brake system and all braking components because you are only as good as the weakest link, wouldnt want anyone else to find out the hard way. I ordered my hose set from Argentina seem to be correct compared to the old set and built like they knew what they were doing... heres some pictures of my progress Cheers Brad Edited August 15, 2011 by bradcckw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 In that last pic the tire has some significant sidewall cracking. I hope those are not your normal driving tires. For brake or other critical parts avoid NOS and go with new made. Rubber only lasts so long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradcckw Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 (edited) I have ten new 7.50x20 NDT tires to go on the old girl after im done with the paint over spray....... those are the tires that came with the truck out of the field i found her in:). Deadline has a good point about nos rubber lines,mine were made new to US D.O.T. spec's! Good luck with the project Vulture, hope she turns out in tip top shape when your done. Brad Edited August 15, 2011 by bradcckw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.O.S. Posted August 15, 2011 Share Posted August 15, 2011 Going a bit off topic, but over here in UK it seems very difficult to find correct automotive air brake spec. rubber hose for the bigger air -braked trucks. Not wanting to use non- automotive - approved hose (although who's to say it's not as good) I eventually tracked some down through a local offshore oil industry supplier, and it wasn't expensive. Needless to say it comes from Uncle Sam! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted August 15, 2011 Author Share Posted August 15, 2011 Good point Gordon and yes, the trucks have that tap too. Vulture - you're in deep with the GMC now, no going back, so I would urge you to bite the bullet and change all the brake hoses - they could all be in similar condition, and just think of the cost as buying safety and peace of mind Ask Rex about engine oil when you order the hoses (and all the other stuff you'll need :wow:). And get some O.D. top coat on that grey primer N.O.S. I like the quote, "you're in deep with the GMC now, no going back" ! Gulp :nut::wow:. Just about sums the position up for me :laugh:. Yes, I'll give Rex a ring, and talk to him about the parts required, also see how old the hoses are he is selling. Brad, awesome looking rebuild your doing there. Very handy to see parts of the system in that stripped down condition. Gordon, good reminder about the brake tap. Kind regards to all Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 (edited) An update guys. Set yesterday afternoon aside to get the drivers-side front brake hose off. Access to the locking nut on the inside of the chassis rail is 'poor' it is fair to say. Good thing the Generator is off otherwise it would have had to be removed. Also found it necessary to remove the protective (?) metal plate that sits on the chassis near the Generator. That allowed access from underneath the truck. Everything came off okay, including the old bleed nipple, although that was so rounded I had to wrap some it insulating tape round it to get a socket to grip. Small snag however.... At first I thought Rex Ward had given me the wrong hose, or alternatively the hose had been manufactured wrong, because at first glance the thread for the end of the hose that goes into the hub was so much small. Then I spotted that the old hose has an adapter on the end to increase the thread size. Ahhhhh simple I though, just transfer the adapter across. But........here's where work stopped for the day.... :embarrassed: I just can't get the adapter off, not with the tools I have anyway. I shall be dropping by my local garage on Thursday (away from home until then) and asking them to have a go for me. The general question is though, I'm not missing anything here am I ? It should just come off shouldn't it ? It's not a reverse thread or anything like that is it ? Kind regards to all Vulture Edited August 30, 2011 by Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradcckw Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I have pulled sevral and there NOT reverse thread, they just seem to be crudded up slightly from sitting. Good luck, Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrettkitt Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 An update guys. Set yesterday afternoon aside to get the drivers-side front brake hose off. Access to the locking nut on the inside of the chassis rail is 'poor' it is fair to say. Good thing the Generator is off otherwise it would have had to be removed. Also found it necessary to remove the protective (?) metal plate that sits on the chassis near the Generator. That allowed access from underneath the truck. Everything came off okay, including the old bleed nipple, although that was so rounded I had to wrap some it insulating tape round it to get a socket to grip. Small snag however.... At first I thought Rex Ward had given me the wrong hose, or alternatively the hose had been manufactured wrong, because at first glance the thread for the end of the hose that goes into the hub was so much small. Then I spotted that the old hose has an adapter on the end to increase the thread size. Ahhhhh simple I though, just transfer the adapter across. But........here's where work stopped for the day.... :embarrassed: I just can't get the adapter off, not with the tools I have anyway. I shall be dropping by my local garage on Thursday (away from home until then) and asking them to have a go for me. The general question is though, I'm not missing anything here am I ? It should just come off shouldn't it ? It's not a reverse thread or anything like that is it ? Kind regards to all Vulture Pop the end that you do not want to keep in a vice (flats of the 'duff hose' tightly in the jaws) and heat up the adaptor above with a blow lamp. You might have to remove it from the vice to undo it with two spanners but the heat should free it, watch out for the hose popping off as you heat it up. I have saved quite a few banjo ends that way on the Ferrets brake cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted September 1, 2011 Author Share Posted September 1, 2011 (edited) bradcckw and ferrettkitt Thanks for the advise. Without current access to a vice and blowtorch I'm somewhat hamstrung, so a friend who has both of these has taken it away today to have a go at it tonight. I'm going to pick up a blowtorch myself this weekend, and my brother has sourced me an old heavy duty vice from his work for £11 so hopefully I'll be better prepared when I attempt the passenger side front brake hose. Kind regards Ian (aka Vulture) Edited September 3, 2011 by Vulture To adjust formatting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deadline Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 Heat may not be the right way to go if they are brass fittings. Brass gets way to soft after 700F and hitting that temp with a blowtorch is very easy (the flame is 2000F+) If its steel, set in in white vinegar for a few days. Take it out every day and hit (use common sense) to break the rust and allow the vinegar to seep in deeper. You will be amazed at the rust eating power of vinegar and molasses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 Heat may not be the right way to go if they are brass fittings. Brass gets way to soft after 700F and hitting that temp with a blowtorch is very easy (the flame is 2000F+) If its steel, set in in white vinegar for a few days. Take it out every day and hit (use common sense) to break the rust and allow the vinegar to seep in deeper. You will be amazed at the rust eating power of vinegar and molasses. Deadline Thanks for the hint about white vinegar. I haven't heard that one before. I shall remember it for the future. :-) Cheers Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulture Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 My friend with the vice managed to get the adapter off, but even with the right tools it was a struggle it seems. Anyway, late yesterday afternoon fitted the new hose with re-used adapter, reconnected the brake pipe, and then bled the system. In the process I found I couldn't stop the joint between the adapter and the hub from weeping Eventually the 'penny dropped' that I hadn't put a washer in there..... :eek: :mad: :banghead: Sooooo I had to take it all apart again (deep sigh) (lots of swearing at this point). Rex hadn't given me one the right size :shocked: so I had to go the local garage and beg one. Even with a washer, getting that joint to stop weeping took some time :sweat:, and reminded me why I HATE MESSING WITH BRAKES ! Anyway job done, lots (re) learnt. I have the other five hoses to do now, and shall attack those over the coming months. After a fortnight off the road it will be good to take the truck out this weekend :drive: Kind regards to all Vulture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpg.2a6ec1e52b1e66c1852e67c05e9afb70.jpg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.