Question; Bedford QL

[martynsmith]

Hi fellas

 

How do you access the engine on a Bedford QL...does the cab tilt forward? anybody got any photos of the cab in this postion if so?

 

In anticipation thanks

[Niels v]

Hi

No the cab does not tilt, there are two covers that you can lift off inside the cab.

If that is not enough you have to dismantel the front and remove the whole cab.

the picture is from the top of the engine with out cover.

[martynsmith]

Hi

 

Thanks thats a great shot. I have interior photos so I can relate to the removable 'hump'

 

Ta again

 

Martyn

[Richard Farrant]

Hi

 

Thanks thats a great shot. I have interior photos so I can relate to the removable 'hump'

 

Ta again

 

Martyn

 

Martyn,

 

Niels must have a later two part engine cover, with a removeable side panel on drivers side. My own one is earler and in one piece, like a dog kennel, and it requires the passenger seat to be removed first.

 

regards, Richard

[Niels v]

Yes that is correct Richard my is the two piece cover.

[Tony B]

spoke to a QL owner today. His advice for any major work is to remove cab. If you look under front of cab at each side you will see bolts held through springs. There si a third in a triangle at the back. that plus steering cab comes off.

[Niels v]

as Tony said the 3 bolt that holds the cab.

But you have to remove the front, radiator, some of the floor and disconnect engine controles and wiring.

[Tony B]

Knowing the rust trap the cab can be. Might not be a bad idea to remove it and get into the nooks and crannies anyway. Got the clutch to do on one as a winter job. Any tips?

[Niels v]

Yes the cab is really badly designed rust wise.

I took the cab off of mine because it was really bad in some places, and it was impossible to fix it insitu.

Sadly I have not got any tips for working on the clutch.

I am also looking for some advice I have a clutch plate that is stuck to the fly wheel. Which from what I have heard is a normal problem with Bedfords that have been standing for a long time.

I am going to take the engine out of my frame and take the clutch apart.

I can not see any other way because of the bell housing acting as the rear engine mounts.

[Richard Farrant]

Knowing the rust trap the cab can be. Might not be a bad idea to remove it and get into the nooks and crannies anyway. Got the clutch to do on one as a winter job. Any tips?

 

I must have one that has had a good life then, very little rust in it, spent a long part of its life in Danish Army and sold of from reserve stock in 1987, bought it 2 weeks after the auction.

 

Tip for doing the clutch........start doing a body building course now, because removing the gearbox is nothing like any other Bedford (excepting a TM)

[Richard Farrant]

Sadly I have not got any tips for working on the clutch.

I am also looking for some advice I have a clutch plate that is stuck to the fly wheel. Which from what I have heard is a normal problem with Bedfords that have been standing for a long time.

I am going to take the engine out of my frame and take the clutch apart.

I can not see any other way because of the bell housing acting as the rear engine mounts.

 

 

Hi Niels,

You do not remove bell housings from Bedfords to get at the clutch, the gearbox is unbolted ( 4 x bolts) from the housing and withdrawn, remove pan under the housing and the clutch can be dropped out the bottom. So, no need to remove the engine. Right, to the awkward part, or though not for you, as your cab is off. The tyre pump has to be removed, and after unbolting the gearbox, it is turned on its side and drawn back out, this has to be done, to clear the chassis cross member.

 

regards, Richard

[Niels v]

Hi Richard

Thanks for the advice. Very nice to know that I can get clutch out without removing the whole engine.

I have already taken the gearbox of, I manage to get it off with the tire pump still attached, It took a bit off manhandling but I had a lot of room to work, as the transfer box, cross member and drive shafts where off.

Have you had problems with at sticking clutch?

[Richard Farrant]

Hi Richard

Thanks for the advice. Very nice to know that I can get clutch out without removing the whole engine.

I have already taken the gearbox of, I manage to get it off with the tire pump still attached, It took a bit off manhandling but I had a lot of room to work, as the transfer box, cross member and drive shafts where off.

Have you had problems with at sticking clutch?

 

Hi Niels,

 

When the cab is on, it is a different story !

 

I have had a stuck clutch a couple of times, after it had been standing during the winter. It released without too much trouble and without having to touch it, by warming engine up, putting it in gear quickly then putting the brakes on. Trouble is that yours has obviously been standing around a long time I guess, so better to remove the clutch, while it is easy to access.

[Tony B]

OK Richard, bulk order of Weetabix :-D The transfer box isn't to bad. I'm planning to cut a timber frame to help support the box. Theory is then roll back on a couple of heavy dollies.