Rik71 Posted January 26, 2013 Share Posted January 26, 2013 I'm sorry I made an error , getting my carriers mixed up . Thanks all for putting me right . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted January 26, 2013 Author Share Posted January 26, 2013 Thanks for those links, it is always nice to see Loyds captured on film. Interesting to see how they are stowed, the ones coming across the pontoon bridge have all sorts on top of the canvas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted January 27, 2013 Author Share Posted January 27, 2013 (edited) The front x-tube is finally free from bogies! After yet more attention with a sledge hammer the bogie came off and the chassis mount has been covered in Plusgas for a while before I heat it up and drift it off, then the x-tube can be painted and put on the shelf. Luckly I have a second reasonably good chassis mount from the other Loyd Carrier, it is about the only salvagable item on the other x-tube as you can see in the photo below. The chassis x-tube mount that it still in place on the good x-tube has one bent corner and a weld that has cracked, but appart from that it survived the firing range unharmed. Above you can see the brass bushes that the bogies run on, they are split have x shaped grooves in them to take the oil from the centre section of the bogies which has a lubrication nipple. The other shims are used to get the bogie in line with the run of the track. Two wrecks = one good item :-) Edited January 30, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted March 7, 2013 Author Share Posted March 7, 2013 It's about time for an update, what with all these carrier projects popping up at the moment. Dining Room decorated, Bathroom decorated and Kitchen about half way through, still tiles and door outstanding.... Off to Belgium on Monday for a small retrofit on an old Gas Turbine. Loyd Carrier? What's one of those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted May 13, 2013 Author Share Posted May 13, 2013 Back on track now. The crank had to be removed again from the engine earlier this year to go back to the machinst as a correction to the valve seat grind was required. Following the spell of fine weather I managed to wash down the block ready for re-assembly. Firstly the camshaft went in, then the new adjustable followers, pre-set to be close to the length of the originals as adjusting them insitue is rather a bother. The assembled valve units went in next, an original 'pickle fork' from Ford being used to lever the units down into the block far enough to slip in the horse shoe shaped retaining clips. To complete the valves the lash was set on all sixteen using a feeler gauge, the follower was locked in place with a special tool which locked each follower to the one next to it, preventing rotation and allowing the adjuster bolt to be wound in. The crank went in without bother, dropped in with the timing marks aigned on the crank and cam gears, NOS pistons and rings combined with the original rods completed the rotating assembly, all that remains is to wire lock the big ends, mains were done when the crank was fitted. Jenni popped in with a cup of tea and snapped me putting in the final piston! What next? Probably the oil pump and sump, rope seals are soaking at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Barrell Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 So CI5 have replaced their 3 litre Capris for pink bikes with stabilisers.......... times must be hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Such is life. I had to remove a wooden tricycle and bag of dog food just to locate the engine block :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 i'm at the same stage as you on my 24 stud rebuild, have you been using belcher for your parts. rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Rick, I used them for the gasket set and Pickle Fork but everything else came from the US and a very nice chap in Hull, all the NOS parts were from him. I also imported a couple of carbs from California Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 a bit academic now but doesn't dirk leegwater sell nos loyd carbs for 140 euro i thought you might have tried him first. anyway if you need any flathead parts give me a shout i've got a few bits left over. rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) a bit academic now but doesn't dirk leegwater sell nos loyd carbs for 140 euro i thought you might have tried him first. anyway if you need any flathead parts give me a shout i've got a few bits left over. rick I am not sure Rick, but I was looking for an original 91-99 ford carb rather than the British version, the same reason that I tracked down a cast iron bodied US post 1942 distributor. Edited May 14, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 i should have known you knew what you were doing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted May 16, 2013 Author Share Posted May 16, 2013 (edited) There is good news and bad news: good that a replacement gasket arrived today so I can fit the timing cover on the flathead (mouse ate the other new one from the gasket set!), bad news is I am at Humberside airport on the way Aberdeen and then on to a rig in the North Sea half way to Norway for two weeks....all work stop. Edited May 16, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 (edited) To clear a little space on the bench and work my way towards completing the engine I rebuilt the two water pumps. Last year the pumps were dismanted and chemically cleaned in the same way as all the other engine parts. The rebuild kits are NORS but having said that are only about 10 years old as far as I know. The pumps were drifted appart following the instructions in the manual but as I didn't want to damage the new bearing I pressed it all back together on the vice with the grips turned around. They were primed last night and once they have received the final ford dark green colour the pulley wil be pressed back on. I cleaned up the cast iron sealing surface on the pump body which the carbon seal sits against before reassembly. Stripped, note original green. An acid dip was the only way to clean out the internal passages. Bearing installed in pump body. Note the tell tail drain cast under the bearing housing. The Impellor side, note sealing face, not like new but marks are radial so shouldn't result in leaks. Seals and new Impellor Impellor is pressed onto the shaft until the end is flush with the Impellor hub face. Edited June 13, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) A few photos showing the fitment of the sump and heads this afternoon. Wire locked mains and cotter pins securing the big ends. Sump was acid cleaned, through corrosion drilled out and welded, finally a skim of Plastic Padding leak stopped was driven into the array of fine corroded holes. The room temperature leak test proved no leaks present. NOS Ford pistons have some staining from over half a century of storage. Modern USA Felpro composite gaskets fitted. Replacement heads were a lucky find (and free :-) required a good skim and acid dip, I used a Buret and sheet of thick plastic to check the volume of the combustion chamber in each head to determine which one needed to go on which side of the engine (the two I was given were both RH heads). I had an 80cc and an 82cc so the 80cc head went on the RHS as this originally had the smaller volume to compensate for the recessed valves. It doesn't matter much as Ford gave up bothering with handed heads in 1945. The engine came with 81A heads but these are marked C81T, the T standing for truck spec, the C stands for Ford Canada, although cast into them is 'Ford USA', strange. I sourced the 7/16 UNF head nuts from http://www.lincsfasteners.co.uk/ friendly service and huge UNF/UNC stock at good prices. A firend recommended tham as he had used them when restoring his British MkII Universal Carrier. Edited June 15, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 looking good mate but I have a question for you, I noticed the sump you have is different to a carrier one, I only noticed as I fitted my 24 stud to the t16 on Friday and it also had the same sump and I had to change it before I could mount the gearbox. is it specific to loyds ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 (edited) Rick, There are at least two different sump types, the car type and the truck type, the one on mine is the truck type with a detachable section at the gearbox end to allow the flywheel and clutch to be serviced without removing the sump. I have a car type from 1945-48 on the shelf if I come unstuck but I can't foresee any problems as the Loyds had bog standard truck setup. Out of interest of my two Loyd wrecks one engine had the truck sump and the other the car type, I guess by the time they were last rebuilt in the 60s the parts were running thin and they mixed and matched a great deal. Any photos of the engine installation in your T16? Edited June 15, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddy8men Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 thanks for the info on the sumps. keep your eye open for my t16 thread as i'll get some pics up of the t16 next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 (edited) Getting there... I need to prime and paint the HT lead conduits black but the holes through which the leads pass have lost the aluminium trim to prevent cutting the insulation of the leads, any idea where I can get this material from? The distributor was put in place just to see if the conduits were in the correct place, it has been removed now and a set of card blanks have been cut to mask off the metal for the final coat of Ford Dark Green paint. Edited June 17, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T corbin Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hi Alaatair I have a pair or conduits but with brass trin .Not in the best of condition if you want them . T CORBIN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 The HT lead conduits in the message above arrived in Lincoln today thanks to the great help from Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 23, 2013 Author Share Posted June 23, 2013 Ford Dark Green. Trial fitting original conduits. Water pumps need to be removed to press on pulleys. Will refit with hex head bolts but a stainless allen in the one inside the bottom port. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 (edited) At long last! The final bogie gave up and came off the rear x-tube this afternoon, the two x-tubes were checked for fit on the chassis but now need heating and a couple of dents taken out to give a good fit, the RHS front x-tube needs a new bracket making at the same time. After that they can both go for blasting. In theory the brackets should allow the x-tubes to move side to side and then be held in their ideal position with a pinch bolt, in my case there is so much corrosion between the brackets and the tubes that freeing them off could well destroy them. As such I am hoping that everything lines up in its corroded position! Edited June 30, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Exhaust stub pipe castings trial fitted, still need to turn the top bolt hole into a slot - like originals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajmac Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 (edited) I was informed this week on the Loyd Carrier social network:-D that a freshly restored Loyd is going up forsale soon, if anyone is interested I can forward your details to the owner. Edited July 5, 2013 by ajmac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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