Beckers NATO green paint probs.

[cw01]

Hello all,

I am at the stage of painting my ex MOD 110, I sprayed it with..... Beckers PT NATO GREEN IRR 2PK P/U,

I added a bit of the accelerator stuff I got with it, but after about 2 months a lot of the paint is cracking and lifting off.

I was wondering if anyone knew what the cause of this might be?.

I think it could have had something to do with the mix of the paint and the accelerator stuff?, but I have never dealt with paint before in my life so don't really know. I have tried in vain to get the correct mix ratios for this paint from beckers but they wont reply to my emails.

I have managed to get another tin of this stuff, along with a tin of the grey primer, and really dont want to mess it up this time.

Any help?, Please.

 

Thanks,

Chris.

 

I could post pics of the affected areas if it would help.

[antar]

Hello all,

I am at the stage of painting my ex MOD 110, I sprayed it with..... Beckers PT NATO GREEN IRR 2PK P/U,

I added a bit of the accelerator stuff I got with it, but after about 2 months a lot of the paint is cracking and lifting off.

I was wondering if anyone knew what the cause of this might be?.

I think it could have had something to do with the mix of the paint and the accelerator stuff?, but I have never dealt with paint before in my life so don't really know. I have tried in vain to get the correct mix ratios for this paint from beckers but they wont reply to my emails.

I have managed to get another tin of this stuff, along with a tin of the grey primer, and really dont want to mess it up this time.

Any help?, Please.

 

Thanks,

Chris.

 

I could post pics of the affected areas if it would help.

 

Is the paint surplus and is it within its shelf life, 2 pack deteriorates quicker than other paints.

[LoggyDriver]

I think the mix ratio of two pack is about 10 to 1.

 

WARNING

 

When you use this paint you need to have a forced air repiration system. It also needs to go into a vehicle paint oven to harden the paint. If you never used an oven then thats probably one of your problems.

 

Sand it down using a proper respirator and then look at my post on painting my vehicle in Desert Sand. Use a Synthetic paint that can be mixed with white spirit and you shouldn't have any problems, but get rid of the two pack as it will probably react with the synthetic.

[Simon Daymond]

if you want to PM me I'll take you through it, (I paint for a living) if it's flaking off, chances are it didn't stick properly to begin with to what was underneath.

Most likely if you primed it, but left the primer to fully dry before applying your topcoat without abrading it first, then this will be why the top coat didn't stick, I had a problem with a coach recently where this had been done, the whole of the back end shelled off when I blew the body filler dust off after effecting a minor repair on the corner!

 

normal 2 pack paint mixing ratio is meant to be 2:1:1, 2 parts paint, 1 part hardener, 1 part thinner. In reality you don't need that much thinner, a third of that stated at best, I thin to suit the weather, cold weather: a bit more, hot weather: a bit less. You can buy mixing cups from local car paint suppliers about 10 - 15 p each. Remember that once activated ( hardener added) the paint has a limited life and will set hard, so don't mix much more than you need.

Edited May 10, 2010 by Simon Daymond
spelling

[cw01]

Hi guys, Thanks for the replies.

 

Simon I would love some advice on what to do next, or the easiest/best fix. You are right in saying that I primed it and left it for a while ( a good month out in the open).

I will post a few pics of how bad it is, just crappy camera phone pics i'm afraid. Also this is the paint I used, and plan to use again,

 

Mixer stuff

Paint

 

Generic pic of damaged area ( its pretty much the worst) but there is wee patches all over the body.

 

Chris.

[Simon Daymond]

lovely! Your gloss has failed to stick to the primer, and you now have a couple of options:

 

get a flat scraper and run it under all the loose, then with a sander feather the edges back

 

if you have access to an airline, with suitable eye protection, run the airline around turned up full and wait for a green snowstorm, thne using the sander feather back all the edges.

 

You won't need to rub it all off, and as the paint is now old, anything can be painted over it.

 

In future, prime then gloss the next day, or if that's not possible you need to abrade the surface to be painted.

You can use wet or dry paper for this or 'scotch' pads, which are the size of A5 sheet of paper and can be bought individually from most car paint suppliers.

 

Looks a mess but it's easily sorted

[haybaggerman]

Thats similar to what happened to my green goddess, some panels took well but others peeled off after a couple of months back to bare aluminium, and that was the recommended primer. Never got to the top coat stage.

 

Paul

[Simon Daymond]

did you abrade the aluminium before you put the primer on? Etch primer is meant to stick to bare aluminium, but we always sand the panels first. Touch wood, nothing has peeled off yet after 17 years

 

Automotive primer isn't all that good at standing upto the weather, it needs a finish coat over the top to seal it. My militant when first repanelled, stood in primer for a few months, but the panels started to rust eventually in places.

Edited May 14, 2010 by Simon Daymond
spelling

[haybaggerman]

Hi

 

Yeah, I did alot of sanding to get the original paint off, not enough though, what I thought looked a nice flat finish showed up alot when etch primed. I think you are right, it has been in primer for too long.

 

Thanks

 

Paul

PS is there a thicker paint that will even things out more or am I dreaming?

[Simon Daymond]

there is, it's called high build primer. Try your local car paint supplier, shop around you should pay no more than £50 for 5 litres even without a trade discount. Make sure you tell them that you want to overpaint with 2 pack, some primers are too susceptable to the solvents in 2 pack and will react, usually in the form of wrinkling, - it looks as though you have put paint stripper on. Obviously if you aren't using a 2 pack top coat it won't matter.

Apply a good couple of coats and have a look. Sometimes it works well to put a few coats on one after the other, let it all dry, then flat back. This is a very good way of levelling panels and loosing the 'fried egg' appearance of body filler, which is where once painted areas around body filler look like a fried egg! If you get something that has rough paintwork, don't spend days rubbing it all down, only to find that you still have a poor job when you paint it, instead do rub down all the obvious bits and filler etc, but then prime it to see where the areas are that need attention, can make life a lot easier

Feel free to PM, about paint issues or if you want a supplier etc.

Edited May 14, 2010 by Simon Daymond

[haybaggerman]

Top tips, thanks for your help. Its a pity your website is under contruction, would like to see a few of your previous projects.

 

That high build primer, will it spary or is it a brush or roller job?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[Simon Daymond]

you can spray, brush or roller it. The very best rollers are the 12" short pile ones (like you'd emulsion with). You MUST wash them out first with soapy water and leave to dry, I get the boss to do them before she washes up and they are left to dry on the drainer.

Washing gets rid of the loose fluff, if you don't the panels will look a mess. You still get the occasional bit but you can pick it out.

You can actually roller 2 pack, but the rollers need to be good quality, and will degrade quicker and need changing, but you can get a reasonable finish. The worst rollers are the small foam ones, they simply don't put enough paint on in my opinion. Yes you can get the stuff on, and it looks ok, but there isn't the thickness, and they can be hard work getting rid of the roller lines. But as with most thing is comes down to personal preferences, and budgets etc.

[haybaggerman]

Thanks, you've given me the incentive to get on and do it, finally....... well, after I've finished the interior paint on the ferret.

 

Thanks

 

Paul