Ferret drain plug. which one??

[pigdog]

Attemping to change the oil in the inner tracta housing. The manual says to remove the drain plug, but there are 2 plugs down there. An allen key brass plug and a hex head bolt. I'm thinking its the big brass allen key one.

Also to change the outer tracta housing it talks about jacking the Ferret and rotating the wheel so the hub plug is at 6 o'clock. Where does one locate the jack under the hull??

Sorry but first time servicing the new Ferret. :???

 

Thanks-Chris

Ferret 2/3

00 EC 55

[ferrettkitt]

Attemping to change the oil in the inner tracta housing. The manual says to remove the drain plug, but there are 2 plugs down there. An allen key brass plug and a hex head bolt. I'm thinking its the big brass allen key one.

Also to change the outer tracta housing it talks about jacking the Ferret and rotating the wheel so the hub plug is at 6 o'clock. Where does one locate the jack under the hull??

Sorry but first time servicing the new Ferret. :???

 

Thanks-Chris

Ferret 2/3

00 EC 55

 

Hi Chris,

 

Its the big brass one No.17. Hopefully some of the others might be of use as well

 

Andy

[john fox]

. Where does one locate the jack under the hull??

00 EC 55

 

in essence anywhere under the hull belly plate, but of course it is more predictable if you do it in line with the wheel station and also nearer/on the edge so the force is not bowing the middle of the belly plate

Edited December 8, 2009 by john fox

[pigdog]

Great. Thanks for the help.

-chris

00EC55

[pigdog]

How does one get oil in the inner housing? And what is an oil injector? I dont have the CES one.

[john fox]

an injector is any form of syringe you can lay your hands on to (errr) inject oil, you can of course do it much more slowly using a normal oil can or messily using a funnel

 

for the inner that means through plug hole 15, keep filling til oil flows out the same orifice. then walk away, let the levels settle and repeat the exercise at least once more to ensure the level is correct

Edited December 10, 2009 by john fox

[MiketheBike]

I use a normal oil can for the inners, as the syringe is too fast and the oil does not get a chance to settle...you'll develop quite a strong thumb.

Make sure you only undo the nut and leave the extension tube in place

 

When you get used to it, it really is a 10 minute job, you'll get a feel for the corners that require more topping up than others.

[pigdog]

I have an oil can so I'll try that method. It took a while to figure out what the manual was saying about the level pug and extension tube. Question is how are you supposed to get an OJ spanner to hold the extension bolt while using the box spanner? Theres no room for an OJ spanner.

Also does anybody use a thread sealant on the plugs?

Thanks much,

Chris

MK 2/3 Ferret

00 EC 55

[ferrettkitt]

I have an oil can so I'll try that method. It took a while to figure out what the manual was saying about the level pug and extension tube. Question is how are you supposed to get an OJ spanner to hold the extension bolt while using the box spanner? Theres no room for an OJ spanner.

Also does anybody use a thread sealant on the plugs?

Thanks much,

Chris

MK 2/3 Ferret

00 EC 55

 

Hi Chris,

 

You shouldn't need thread sealant as the copper washer should seal the oily stuff in and hold the plug in place. You could use a thread sealant on the the extension tube where it meets the housing. I suspect cleaning the thread might be interesting as a thread locker / sealant will want a clean surface to adhere to.

[MiketheBike]

Andy,

yes I normally find the extension tube tends to stay in place unless the socket I am using goes on too far...In which case I just take them both off, seperate them and screw the extension tube back on.

[ferrettkitt]

Andy,

yes I normally find the extension tube tends to stay in place unless the socket I am using goes on too far...In which case I just take them both off, seperate them and screw the extension tube back on.

 

 

Mine come off I might try loctite on the threads when it warms up a bit! Its a bit cool at the moment ...

[pigdog]

Can I ask what your procedure is for changing the outer tracta joints? Do you move the Ferret so the outside plug is at 6 oclock. Empty then move the ferret again so its at 3 or 9 oclock? Or do you you have the ferret jacked up so you can rotate the wheels by hand? Should the gearbox and transferbox both be in neutral?

Also I discovered the right front inner housing was bone dry! Should I check it for any kind of damage? I drove it after I got it for about 8 miles. I know its my fault for assuming it was topped up when I bought it. Damn.

Anyways thanks much for all the help

-Chris

[MiketheBike]

In the diagram posted earlier...darin using plug #28, and fill using plug #24...from what I remember.

 

I have a similar issue with my front right bevel box blowing oil out through the seal. The brake master cylinder had been overfilled or leaked at some point and the air vent on top of the bevel box corroded, so cannot vent. I have a new air vent and plan to do that maybe this winter.

With yours, I guess its a question of how long it was empty and how far/hard its been driven. Fill it up and see where its leaking.

[john fox]

re pigdogs query, there was a change to the Emers. For the outer joint the new method is to rotate the wheel so plug #28 is at either 10 or 2 o'clock and fill the outer hub till oil is at the level of that plug. This ensures that oil levels in the outer hub are actually correct. If you do it via the original method, ie using plug 24 as the fill level, it takes a long time to be certain that the level is true because of the delay in the oil getting past the needle rollers into the actual outer hub itself.

 

does not matter if you move the vehicle or (obviously easier) jack up the wheel to get 10/2 o'clock position - assumes you are on level ground to start with

[pigdog]

Are you supposed to be able to turn the wheel when its jacked up? I could only get one wheel off the ground and it wouldnt turn.

-Chris

[john fox]

Blimey Chris you do have a lot to learn! First lesson of a Ferret it does not have a front and rear axle, it has a left hand side and a right hand side pair of wheels

 

Ferret is a permanent 4 wheel drive transmission. That means the wheel at the front left is linked to the wheel at the rear left by the propshafts connected to the transfer box. You cannot rotate it if only a single wheel is jacked up, if you can turn one wheel on its own it indicates you have a broken tanfer box or final drive

 

you must lift both wheels on a single side off the ground if you want to turn one of them

[pigdog]

Ok I'm not as dumb as I sounded there. I know that each side is linked, I just couldnt find the "spot" for the jack where it would jack up both wheels on the same side. I just moved it so the hub plugs are at 6 for draining and 10 for filling. I will get another jack so I can jack up the front/back of one side. Hopefully I wont sound that dumb again..........but I'm sure I will.

Thanks for helping

Chris

MK 2/3 Ferret 00 EC 55

[MiketheBike]

Chris,

 

you could just get the wife/girlfriend to push it while you steer...that would work, although she would need to also keep an eye on the plugs to make sure they are in the correct position

Let me know what she thinks?

 

Mick

[pigdog]

Somehow I dont think she'd go for that. I had enough trouble getting her to tell me when the plug was at the right postion let alone push it.

-C