LarryH57

So those parts are perfectly serviceable? I wonder why the bearing was removed from the hub? Surely it would be best to get new replacement parts. I have the hub tool already.

I have inherited a wheel hub for my Lwt and in the bag of bits was the bearing showing severe damage to some of the parts, but I wonder what would cause such. The two parts at the top of the photo are undamaged, but the one in the centre lower is bent both sides and the 'nuts' are cut and heavily scored. Any ideas?

Its a shame there aren't more of these about in RAF Blue, which I guess is a Series IIA (?) in RAF service before NATO Green came in to use. I think the photo needs to be in a caption competition! It has no external door locks, domed indicators, and wing mirrors rather than door mirrors. Note the interesting tire tread pattern I cannot identify.

Incidentally, the K2 shown above in the colour photo, seems to have the exhaust pipe extended up the side. Was this to stop the unloading staff from being 'gassed' by fumes while loading or equally to protect the casualties?

Another old post but here is a civi Austin K2 on an RAF airfield just after D-Day to collect casualties off a Douglas Dakota. As my Dad remembers as an erk at RAF Broadwell and later RAF Down Ampney, it was all hands to the pump to remove the wounded from the aircraft on to ambulances as quickly as possible. Often the RAF personnel would give emergency aid in the shape of a Woodbine Cigarette, as smoking was good for you in 1944! Note civi registration and no large red crosses. As for the RAF use of Austin K2s on UK airfields I seem to remember that RAFM say this was from late 1945 and after VE-Day, so if you own an RAF Blue K2 then paint the front mudguards gloss black and it will look very smart in postwar colours as of April 1946.

Is there any progress on the vehicle above which looks to me missing its cab?

Here is another photo of the other end. It all seems okay apart from those coffee grain sized rust spots

Attached are photos of the tank that is to replace the one on the Lwt that is weeping fuel around the drain plug. This replacement tank matches the one on the vehicle, which I guess is original from 1980. The inside of my replacement tank has a few spot of rust but these have been given the rust cure liquid to turn them black, though since last year a few more spots have appeared. Still, I think it is good enough not to need Frosts POR15. I bought this tank for £30 about 10 years ago. It has been cleared up and repainted on the outside with three coats of undercoat rust protection and two of black. The current tank is painted with underseal over the bottom and sides. Incidentally the original tank looks to be in NATO Green under the dirt, so perhaps my black is not the right colour!

By chance was this Humber once used by Monty; I think he had several and was it left behind when he cleared off to Normandy?

Old post but I just found this in my files! Is that HM King George VI in the back on a visit to North Africa in 1943?

My post was a bit unclear - I believe, like Maurice, it is a Ford.

I guess if it was a Chevrolet then it might have had the radiator overflow bottle on the side of the cab that's showing, so perhaps a Ford F60 then? However at some stage I think Chevrolet got round to deleting the exterior bottle on Chev FATs, so may have done so on the F60 chassis

I suppose the real question is Fuel Tank sealant necessary for every replacement Tank?

Same for me - photo is not downloading for me

I guess there are those who have taken on a project but never completed it and got too old to start work but lived in hope of being able to do so and kept it till they died, after which the family saw the project as a pile of junk and parted with it for a few hundred pounds to 'We buy any MV' or the local scrap dealer. Similarly there will be regulars on the show scene with viable vehicles but as they grow older they just cannot be bothered to go to the likes of WPR, so their MV gets out less and less, until some minor inconvenience like a flat tire or battery means the MV gets left in the garage, slowly getting less roadworthy. Such owners are never going to sell their pride and joy. However what happens next depends on whether their family appreciate the MVs worth, after the owner has 'gone'. Its a depressing thought that we don't own our MVs so much as keep them for the next generation!

Guys have any of you had any issues with Frosts or other brands fuel tank sealant? A friend of mine said a mate of his had the sealant peal away and it blocked the fuel supply. Would that be a common thing or perhaps a fault of the person who applied it. What stops it pealing off? Also if the tank I have sourced had rust inside 'cured' do I even need to use Sealant? Apparently Fulltilt fixed a hole with a coin araldited to the inside of the tank!

As you can tell I'm doing a few jobs in lockdown, waiting for the world to return to normal! Anyway I have a Lwt heater fan motor off a Smiths heater that needs a bit of TLC. The top cover, which encloses the motor brushes is caked in paint on the outside but the inside is fine. I want to put paint striper on outside only but will masking tape or gorilla tape actually keep out the Nitromors out? Incidentally is there anything else that might need attention? The brushes still contact the motor. The motor spins but it may be just me but I think it spins slower than the new one.

Well the Speedo works and I am just at the point of reassembly, and the rubber fixings would be a nice addition and a new blue lense, as it is broken at the back. And BTW when the dial is fixed with the correct screws and rhomboid rubber patch in place the dial face still seems to be slanted. Is this to be a bit more visible to the driver?

Guys one last question! The attached photo shows (bottom right) two of the three surviving rubber fixings that go over the end of three 'stalks' in the casing that take the Green Blue and Amber lights. I can only guess they are to shield the lights. However these are falling to bits, so does anyone on here know the part number and a source for them? Also the lenses for the Green Blue and Amber lights look to be held in by a tight fitting washer on the reverse side, but how do these come off as the blue light is broken and in need of replacement?

Thanks Fulltilt, My Lwt was built circa November 1980 and is a 2.26L GS. So I'm told the speedo would be in Kms for that time period, and I'm sure the one I am working on is the original fit and is also in Kms. Any clues over the reason for the internal colours of blue and white? And also what to use to secure the glass? As for the spare Britpart cable I own I guess you are correct, it's better for a S3. However by holding the speedo cable vertical with the speedo balanced on top I did get it to work nicely and with the cordless drill set to turn anti-clockwise, I got my speedo to maintain 40 kmph nicely. I guess its time to reassemble it now.

For some reason the speedo in my Lwt stopped working but it wasn't the speedo cable, as with a spare speedo installed everything worked as normal. Anyway I decided to take the old speedo out and take it apart. The first thing I noted was the inner surfaces of the casing were painted light blue and off white. But why was the inner surface painted like that as they are not seen when the speedo is put back together and installed in the Lwt. Is this original to the factory? Its made by Smiths and I'd like to restore things as near to factory fit as possible? On the rear of the casing under the makers name it says 'None O Jewels' - what the does that mean? When I took the speedo apart the glass was held in place in the inner rim by a substance resembling coal - whatever it was had crystallised, and I would appreciate knowing what's best to use that won't ooze out when the glass and outer rim are put back in place and spoil the look or turn to 'coal' in a year or two. Lastly to test to speedo I took a spare speedo cable part number 579435 and connected the gearbox end to a cordless drill. However despite using the correct speedo cable (i hope) I could not get it to engage in the back of the speedo itself and i wonder why in my speedo mechanism there is a recessed ridge all the way round the drive (just down from the yellow part in the attached photo) that doesn't have any way of connecting in to the speedo cable end. I guess the speedo cable needed to be pushed further in but I could not move it in any more so the cable did not engage. Why? Thanks

Hopefully Bryan will have access or is everyone in the RAF Museum working from home?

Graham, I spotted this book on line- if someone has it already they can check for photos for the 1946 Div sign. https://www.amazon.co.uk/QUEENOS-ROYAL-WEST-REGIMENT-1920-1950/dp/1845741501/ref=pd_lpo_14_img_0/257-6921451-9192103?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1845741501&pd_rd_r=e77a7302-5a86-454f-a5a3-56769a4f3a44&pd_rd_w=78SDu&pd_rd_wg=imaub&pf_rd_p=7b8e3b03-1439-4489-abd4-4a138cf4eca6&pf_rd_r=FXHMXEEZW3X1PMT1M7RP&psc=1&refRID=FXHMXEEZW3X1PMT1M7RP BTW Wally - I guess you meant drivers side in Europe is the OFF side and the passenger side would be the nearside the side nearest the pavement. So that means for this Jeep Graham has to paint the Div signs on the passenger side front and rear?

Wow! DBG and brown! I would have sworn that it never existed!

Dumb question but if a Jeep is parked on a British road, is the near side, the side with the drivers seat so nearest to a British kerb?