Stormin

Bit hard to say at the moment as it's all dismantled. I suspect my boom has been extended in the past as this was quite a common modification. What's the legal maximum projection? I may modifiy the boom to suit.

Crikey I thought the M54 and M35 series trucks had been updated with dual line air brakes! It's a long time since I looked at the manuals for them though.

Back of that truck is almost as well equipped as my home workshop :-D That lathe badly needs some oil on the ways and screws though.:shocked:

1944 Ward La France M1A1 approx 16 tons. Problems I forsee! The extreme projection of the rear boom. Loose fitted items such as ground anchor props and support legs. Lack of rear mud flaps. The original rear marker lights are obscured by the rear winch frame. What about the carrying of oxy acetylene bottles empty or not?

Those flexible cotton discs look just like the modern rubber donuts used on Land Rover propshafts.

Of course you're right. I hadn't considered the constant velocity issue :blush:

Where are you getting the work lights from? I'd be interested to know as there's not much left of mine.

As John says the cams only turn a fraction. So no real need for roller bearings. In Fact I believe roller bearings don't work too well for small movements. I'm thinking propshaft yoke needle rollers tend to eventually shatter due to small repetitive movements but these are many time what an S cam undergoes. Lubrication may also be a problem. Still got the grease nipple on the axle ends but it's a convoluted path from the grease point into the centre of the bearing. I think it would have worked out more expensive for me to obtain new bronze bushes than the needle rollers. I too will see how they go and may change them again in the future.

Looks like a good project John. Intersting to see some of the differences between series Two and Five wreckers. Are the instrument clocks orginal? I am surprised they have white faces to the dials. Also surprised at the amount of wood in the cab area. I thought the cab on mine looked narrow but the front view of yours makes it look ridiculously narrow for the size of truck. Having proper doors can't help with inerior room either. Looks to be a lack of clearance between steering wheel and door. I wonder if Land Rover designers took this as a reference and not just the Jeep. Mine is missing the wheel centre too. It's not the horn push on a Series 5 or M1A1 though just a filler so I was going to make something to fit. The horn is activated off one of the many floor mounted push buttons I believe.

I'm surprised that those cross drilled holes for pins in the dumbell shaft are not at right angles to each other. I'm sure it would allow greater articulation and misalignment of the drive.

Interesting with the rear S cams for the brakes. I believe bronze bushes are the original fitment and needle rollers is a later conversion. My needle roller bearings had suffred badly too but I decided to replace with similar and see how they go. Looks like you've got a good collection of rear diaphragms there. Always handy to have a stock of spares.

Hi John. Can't seem to reply to you by private message. I haven't touched the front chambers. They don't operate with a diaphragm more like a piston with a rubber seal similar to a piston ring I believe. Anyway I've had all the air connected up and running and there are no leaks from the front chambers and they operate smoothly. I may strip them down in the future to inspect the bores though. Look forward to seeing pictures of your Ward and any updates on the Diamond T. Progress has been slow on my Ward over the winter. Wanting to blast and paint the cab but not getting the weather at the moment. All the best with the new project. Norman.

Radius capability will vary with machine and material but I see no problem ring rolling that front headboard hoop. It's the best way to get a nice even curve. The angles on the sides look far too tight a radius to be rolled and will have to be hot worked. Cheap forge on Ebay at the moment. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Gas-forge_W0QQitemZ330398175881QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item4ced441289

I would write a letter to my MP if I really thought it would make any difference whatsoever! If it's another excuse to screw more cash out of people who have some, it'll get through. Got to laugh at the cost benefits section of the reoprt. All the accident costs are based on guessed figures for test exempt vehicles involved in 2008 accidents as they don't actually have any real figures, adds up to around £6 million. It doesn't really matter as all the costs are going to be borne by the operators £8.5 million a year. So all in all it's a win win for the government.

I believe a ring roller with appropriate formers is the tool to use if the radius is not too tight. Probably better to get them done at a fabricator that is set up for the job. They're used all the time as strengtheners on large silos and tanks. To buy a machine is quite expensive. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Power-Section-roller-ring-roller-30mm-shafts_W0QQitemZ120513707746QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item1c0f2d3ee2

Yes. Engine oil in the gearbox! I believe many have been ruined by putting in EP809/90 oil which is too thick for the internal oil pump. Results in seizure of internal parts and difficulty in changing gear. May I suggest an LPG kit for your 101. Make it affordable to run and you may keep it for longer. Also the Nokken winch is a good accessory if you can find one, but limits room along the chassis rail for lpg tank. I think the 101 / Ward La France combination is becoming popular.

Just had a look at that link. How complicated is that 4 catalytic processes? Wouldn't like to have to replace those parts when they get clogged or go wrong. Dare say it'll cost a few bob and make relatively new trucks that are a few years old head for the scrap heap rather than have these systems replaced.

Yes I thought as much. I'm no chemist, I just meant the principle was similar in that two potentially nasty substances added together can make a neutral.

Presume it works on a similar principle to mixing acid with an alkali. In the right proportions the result is Ph neutral and relatively harmless. Doesn't this thread look a bit strange now that all of Delta's post's have been removed. Looks like I'm replying to my own posts put not too when you read them

That does look very complete and a better basis for restoration than mine. Even all the tools boxes seem to be in place. Only things I can see missing are the siren light and the search light. Both highly expensive unfortunately. Looking forward to more photo's as you progress. Always good for reference to see what's missing or wrong with mine. Good luck with the restoration.

Just had a quick shufty on Google earth. It's marked down as RAF Folkingham on there. Didn't realise the scale of the place from the 28 days later explores, it's immense. Can't be too far from Antar Mike. I'm sure he'd be aware of the Antar there and any useful spares it may yield. Seem's to be a treasure trove of other parts as well. I wonder if they are interested in selling parts or just whole vehicles.

Thought you would've been quite knowledgeable with regard to canvas yourself Jack!

Any more progress on the high speed tractors? I was really enjoying this thread and it seems to have gone quiet.

Have noticed in the specification it states 600rpm min. You may need to gear up the drive from the diff pinion to maintain oil flow at low speeds. Is the pump self priming and will it lose oil supply when stood for long periods? You may need a non return valve in the pick-up pipe. Unless you do a lot of heavy towing are you going to put the strain on the diff that means it needs the oil pump? I would have thought splash lubrication would suffice in most cases as it does in almost all other axles.

Wouldn't the double coilspring washers be nearer replacements for thackray washers? http://www.fabory.com/pages/categories.html?catId=fabory_0000092195_0000092684_0000092712_0000092736 They would need a very close look to spot the difference when fastened up.