Stormin

Does too much association with green machines inevitably lead to a regulation haircut? Got too admit to it myself (No. 3).

Tried taxing my Lightweight on line shortly before I sold it. Had a current MOT, reminder form with code number and logbook with code number and current insurance but on line system failed me with no explanantion. No wonder there's so many un-taxed vehicles about with post offices closing and the system to replace them not working properly. High time the Tax disc was done away with and replaced with an insurance disc in the windscreen.

Amazing stuff! Would have been interesting if they had built a prototype and it had made it into preservation if only to see the engineering involved. As the article says it would probably have been a good thing for the allied war effort too if so much of the German resources had been expended on the project. Makes me wonder what other projects were considered, by both sides, and never made it into production. Surely with time some more details of these secret projects should have come into the public domain.

I'll Start with the three I've got as I wouldn't swap them:- 1) Land Rover 101 GS 2) Land Rover Lightweight 3) Bedford MJ Now the wish list 4) Alvis Stalwart 5) AEC Militant (MKIII Recovery) 6) FV433 Abbott SPG (MKII multifuel) 7) REO 2.5ton (Whistler) 8) Scammell Pioneer (Recovery) 9) Centurion ARV (For that RR engine) 10) Any suitable trailer to move the Tracks and Stolly on. You've got to have something that sounds good as well as looks good.

Jack If he's on the web he should be able to download it here:- http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/page/item/b008p88c.shtml If not you may be able to download and send it to him.

The weber carb is very easy to set-up as well, only two adjustment screws! I've had them on two landrovers. One thing to watch out if fitting one is to make sure you have full throttle movement, my first one didn't. I think the throttle spindle rotates in the opposite direction on the weber to the original zenith and even though the original link rod will fit may need adjusting in length. Carb is last on list of things to check on a tune up though. As HF said start with compression test, then check valve clearances, next is ignition system. Only when all the above are sorted should you try to adjust carb.

O.K. so I've been inspired by the recent article in CMV and went and bought a Bedford MJ. The magazine article made light of re-plating to 7.5 tonne weight limit, for use with a C1 licence. Has anyone on here been through this procedure. It sounds a simple matter of removing brackets on the chassis, but how do you provide evidence to VOSA or DVLA that the weight capability is reduced. Are there engineering companies that carry out this conversion and provide a new certificate and plate? Any help greatly appreciated.

Had a look at the Mog myself but didn't bid as it looked like it needed a bit of work to tidy it up. Got plenty of that on with my 101 at the moment. Bid on and won lot 151 instead, a tidy looking bedford MJ. Just got to decide whether or not to down rate it's weight plating or go for my HGV licence. Thinking of downrating it temporarily and then maybe re-plating later when I've got round to the test.

Went along and had a look today. Was surprised to see that the concrete had been placed on top of the engines and gearboxes in the 432s. From what someone had said about replacing the missing weight for recovery training I was expecting the mechanicals to have been removed first. Definitely seems a great waste, there must have been some usable parts ruined there.

Is it some sort of balloon? For weather or some other type of observation.

Didn't seem to worry them with the 101! http://www.witham-sv.com/Lot-picture/lot61.jpg[/img]

Add to the weigh in value at the scrap yard :whistle:

Not half. Didn't see mention of slight damage in the description! Think I'll keep that thousand pounds back for something else.

What other sizes are these available in then, 900x16 by any chance? Could suit my 101 in the future.

Try removing the small tin cover on the front output housing above front prop flange. Think there's only two small 7/16 bolts to remove and the pin from the fourwheel drive selector lever. You can then see the ends of the selector rods to see if you are getting movement whilst someone else moves the hi lo and four wheel drive levers. These can seize up if there hasn't been enough oil in the transfer box. Had a problem on mine where the bottom pivot bolt for Hi Lo was partially seized. once you had put it in Lo, if you changed to Hi lever moved as though moving back into Hi but not quite enough to clear on the selector. From in the cab the lever position looked correct (Back in Hi range). Just freeing off the pivot bolt enabled a slight further amount of lever movement and problem solved.

Bit late notice for me to make arrangements to go down and watch now :-( Hope someone gets some good video footage and posts it on HMVFTV, don't forget the sounds!

I had my 101 chassis sand blasted and cost me £200, for chassis axles and springs. I bought a similar small pot blaster to OOEC25 for £50 pounds off ebay. The blast pot itself is quite good it's just my compressor struggled to keep up on large surfaces. My compressor is 3Hp and 14CFM about the largest you can run on a home single phase supply. Faced with the choice of hiring a larger compressor, risking burning mine out or getting someone else to do the job I chose the latter. You really need a large vane type compressor as used on the roads for these type of blasting jobs. The blast pot will still come usefull for smaller parts exhaust manifolds and brackets. Also helped to get the bits that were missed on the rear axle. Another thing to consider if having a lot of parts blasted at once is how quickly can you paint them? Rust can reform in a little as twenty minutes depending on atmospheric conditions. Also most primers are not impervious to moisture so a surface is not fully protected until top coated.

Be great to see this resurrected. Hope someone keeps up some reports with images, BBC or whoever. Would imagine it would be best to get it out quickly now it's becoming exposed. A winter of battering whilst partially exposed to the sea could finish it off unless well protected. May even be better to bury it again until spring or summer next year.

How do you know they're Mk1's? Have you had a sneak preview? Didn't see any about last time I was there. Guide price of £2000 is about scrap value I would have thought.

I can see that last release 101 easily exceeding the guide price unless it's a real crock! Interesting to see some FV432's in this time as well. I thought I read somewhere that there wouldn't be any more armoured vehicles released for some years. Suppose I'll have to go and have a look for a potential Christmas present for myself.

I'm with Alien FTM! I was thinking an automatic firing blank, but couldn't have described it as well as he did.

What's your website David? Don't see it listed under your profile. Is there lots more interesting stuff like this? Beat me too it :-(

Looking very good Chris. You must be very quick with a spray gun to prime and top coat the whole vehicle in a day! Took me two days to prime and paint my 101 chassis, event hen I found I've missed bits. What's the blue primer you've used? Is it specifically for Aluminium? Last time I painted a Land Rover body I used Hammerite Special Metals primer but hated the red colour. Seemed to take a lot of covering with top coat, but maybe it was my old spray gun. Keep up the good work. Like all the additional photo's on the website too.

Is there another trip required to return the borrowed dolly?

Coincidentally I was just reading this by Dr Deuce the other day. http://www.cckw.org/clutch_adjustment.htm He seems to recommend different adjustment dimensions to those recommended above. If I was doing it I would buy a new pressure plate as well. Wouldn't want to have to go to all that work again if it's not right afterwards.