Stormin

The hard part of making the body on a Brockhouse will be duplicating the pressed crosses that stiffen the panels. Have you any method of recreating these? That Alfa looks interesting, will you post more details up?

Jim, Given that the pioneer was designed to haul heavy loads at low speeds, is there any need to use more than a couple of gears during normal driving? I'm thinking with all the torque from the gardner engine, top and one gear below should be enough. Not like a gutless WLF :-( I know some may be concerned about clutch wear, but unladen it shouldn't have too hard a time. Not suggesting you shouldn't master the full selection of course, just for ease of normal driving.

Thing to do with the lightweight is remove the tap from the engine altogether, these are prone to seizing up and restricting flow of hot water even when working correctly. You won't get to warm in summer of course because the top will be off. With both heaters make sure the core's are clear, they tend to collect rust and muck restricting the flow of hot water. I flushed mine through both ways with a hose pipe several times. The muck that came out was unbelievable. Keep going until the water runs clear. The heater on a 110 should work very well providing the core is clear. Check the foam seal of the heater box to the bulkhead, this can disintegrate and let could air from under the bonnet through. If it's only you sat in the 110 most of the time, have you tried blanking off the rear section. Friend of mine hung a piece of clear polythene from the roof just behind the front seats, effectively reducing the cab size and increasing the heat in the front. If you've got a soft top, a proper fume curtain is the way to go.

Jim, Good to hear of progress, but some pictures would be even better! I know you said earlier you like to get stuck in and don't spare time for pictures. You must stop for a brew now and again? Then's the time to take a few snaps! It'd surely be good to look back in a few years time at what you did on all your projects. Heaven forbid you decide to part company with anything in years to come, a picture documented rebuild also helps add value as it proves what was done. Anyway don't let my requests slow you down.

Mark, What model of Land rover have you got? I had a Series III, one of the best mods I did was stick a modern thermostat in the engine, one that opens at 80 odd degrees rather than 70. The extra heat in the water works wonders. Also helped fuel efficiency. Next mod was to fit a 90 heater onto the passenger footwell, it's quite a bit larger but just fits under the wing without having to remove it.

Vince, I'd suggest thinners for removing the remnants of glue. It won't leave a residue that'll affect painting later. If thinners doesn't shift it, I'd try nitromoors. What blast cabinet have you `been looking at' ?

Looking good Chris. It's a bit of a departure from your previous projects. Not much joinery involved in those.

Thanks Mike, Very nice pieces of equipment you're building there!

Mike I'm intrigued by the chain trencher as well. Looks like the conveyor belt is mounted very low for off loading. Does it deploy to a higher position in use? Have you built the unit entirely from scratch or modified something else? Glad to here the Antar is coming back together. Heavier clutch could be that new and thicker plate is putting more tension on pressure plate springs! :idea:

Told you, oop North is where it's at!

"Just fell in" wouldn't have expected that from someone with sea legs like yourself! You weren't trying to skim some of that valuable diesel off the top were you?

Thanks very much all!

We can speculate and deconstruct the grammar on here as much as we want. We can even get it writing from someone at VOSA. Until it comes before a court and the definition is clarified or modified we're all just guessing, what may and may not be classified as a MPV.

Wouldn't be too hard to weld the release handle on the king pin and make it reasonably permanent! It's as good as permanent as the tank or half track welded to a load bed. When I down rated my Bedford MJ to 7.5 tonnes, the bump stop spacers were supposed to be permanently fixed. The conversion kit came with nuts and bolts to attach them and this was VOSA approved. Not the same case I know, but shows a variation on the definition of permanent.

Scammell Pioneers always look great! Those are some good shots. Glad your having fun, but don't forget the rest of the rebuild. Or are you enjoying the light weight racing pioneer too much :evil:

Well it's not true what I said then! Maybe it's just me and my luck? Best make sure you get everything done whilst the heads are off. You don't want to be looking for another set of even more scarce gaskets in a few years time.

Decent tutorial here as well Jack. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

Second what Chris say's. A tiny compressor will be no good, won't maintain pressure at the nozzle and It'll give an uneven finish. Especially true with a professional gun. Though I wouldn't necessarily call a snap-on gun professional, more usually over priced and over-rated in my view. You can change the nozzle (or cap) size in most guns to suit compressor output and paint. Thicker paints, like primer need a bigger nozzle and more air. You can usually get away with smaller nozzles and air requirement for finishing coats.

Something to do with the firing of a steam catapult? Guessing the pin runs in the channel rails on the deck of an aircraft carrier, and the top brakes off as the aircraft departs. Not sure what the urine is all about?

Perhaps that's why the design hasn't appeared since?

The bumper itself is an unusual shape on the Ward La France. My guess is the bumper was used to push recover other vehicles. Those plates may just be there to protect the vulnerable wings behind. If as Mark suggests they're for markings, why not just put them on the wing itself which is at the same angle?

Mike, Given your luck so far with this project, I'm not surprised your looking to someone else to make the decision, on how to go. Not sure I'm upto the reponsibilty though sorry. :noyay:

I know this is the Diamond T gallery, but no mention for the vehicle alongside. At first glance I thought it may be overtaking the slow moving diamond T, :yay: But a second look noticed the bonnet is up on the Ward La France. :noyay:

Perhaps he made another mould copy at the same time as yours and wants to get his money back instantly. How much are you selling couplings for? You could put a few up on ebay undercutting him!

Always the same when your looking for that elusive part. Everyone you speak to used to have lots of them or knew someone who did. But they've only just let them go, lost them, scrapped them. Good luck in your search. It's far better to be preserving the original engines than going the conversion route.