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Stormin

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Everything posted by Stormin

  1. Stormin
    Thanks for checking, for me. Didn't get chance myself today. It's the same story at all the steel suppliers I've tried. Only parallel flange channel available for the last few years. Not sure it's been rolled at all in this country for years. PRC is a lot more convenient for structural use. Easier to bolt into flanges without wedge washers and smaller notches for side connections. I think my only hope is finding some from a demolition or refurb job at a reclaim yard. It's no good grinding the flanges of PFC it's already thinner near the web were it needs to be thicker. We even considered stripping flanges from one side of an RSJ to get the same profile but that's a lot of work and I'm having to pay for it.
  2. Stormin
    I was thinking Crossleys as it's the only others I could think of using that system.
  3. Stormin
    Simon, How are you forming the radiused edge to the wing? I would have expected that to have been rolled / folded before you bent the main shape around the wheel or through rollers.
  4. Stormin
    But if you get out there doing something in the cold you appreciate being back in the warm later all the more. I've got to say that some of the work shown on here is a great inspiration to me when I get down with my projects.
  5. Stormin
    Meanhile, indoors my friend and fabricator at DJM engineering has made a start on the rear body restoration. The amount of work and tools required to do this are beyond my means but fortunately I know a man who can! Between building a new extension to his workshop he's removed the upper part of the rear crane bed. It has now revealed that the corrosion is not limited to the upper part of the crane bed but also the main frame rails are thinned by corrosion. I'm hoping to source some correct size channel to repair this section, but have been looking for a couple of weeks with no luck. I need two four foot lengths of 6" x 3 1/2" RSC tapered flanges. If anyone knows of any I'd be pleased to hear from them. Last resort is to repair with modern Parallel flange channel.
  6. Stormin
    Had to resort to the torch to remove all the S cams. The slack adjusters were easily removed and will be cleaned up by wire brush and painted at home. I'm going to have to source new needle roller bearings for S cam's as they're all past it.
  7. Stormin
    It was a good workout removing eight rear wheels and four brake drum / hub units. in fact it was two workouts on consecutive weekends as I had to make a makeshift spanner to fit the large hub nuts. It was a bit cold at times too! Managed to warm up rapidly moving wheels and hubs.
  8. Stormin
    Whilst some of the small brake parts have made it to the home workshop for fettling, I've been spending time at weekends removing brake parts from the back axles. All the S cam's were seized. The paintwork on the rear axles is not good, green slapped over grease and dirt. The intention is to strip the axles down somewhat for better access and grit blast then paint again.
  9. Stormin
    I think this is the chap:- LR Fasteners - Tony Arnold, 32 Laburnum Park, Bradshaw, BOLTON. BL2 3BU. Tel +44 (0)120 430 2589 Fax +44 (0)120 441 7219 Bought some parts from him a few years back. He has an Aladdins cave in his garage, stuff you probably wouldn't get elsewhere.
  10. Stormin
    Like the commentary on the video. :-) Glad it's all working well after the rebuild. Time to start enjoying it again.
  11. Stormin
    Two of the diaphragms were shot. The other two would probably have been O.K. but for the price I ordered four from Army cars in Holland. One of the brake chamber tops was severely pitted internally to the point of perforation. I elected to weld this up. All the chambers were grit blasted and have now been partially painted.
  12. Stormin
    Next for the strip down treatment were the rear brake chambers. Some of the nut and bolts were seriously corroded. Obviously been sitting covered in mud for years.
  13. Stormin
    Replacing the actuator made no difference still no air pressure. Next to be looked at was the rear brake relay valve. That was a different story. Remoarkably it cleaned up quite well. Even the rubber diaphragm was serviceable under all the crud. Seeing what mositure had done to this item, made me re-arrange the air brake piping. I made sure all the air went through both air reservoirs before reaching any ancillaries. Whilst this is the standard arrangement on the Ward La France, my air compressor is on the opposite side so I had to modify the pipe runs.
  14. Stormin
    Well it's been a while since I last posted but I've not been totally idle. Most work has been in th air brake system and the rear axles. After rigging up some copper pipes for the brakes there was a complete failure to build pressure in the system. First to be looked at was the brake actuator. Stipped down on the bench it looked in remarkably good condition internally thanks to a stainless steel diaphragm.
  15. Stormin
    Looks not unlike the injector pump on my Cummins but a lot less rusty. Made a great deal of difference when I rebuilt it. The engine actually responded to the throttle lever rather than doing it's own thing.
  16. Stormin
    Sorry :embarrassed: Just looked again and used my eyes this time. This seems to show a square cut-out.
  17. Stormin
    Not visible in the pictures you sent me Tony. Have a look at the picture below (not my body), the inverted V shape at the front is to clear the winch propshaft. This shape must continue in some for through the floor of the under bed toolbox just behind. It's the one with a half lid for some reason but the box would seem to extend the full width between chassis rails.
  18. Stormin
    Well we've managed to find the dimensions and extent of the centre toolbox from the remains of weld lines on the original metal. All that remains to discover now is wether the box out for the rear winch prop is rounded or squared off. Don't suppose anyones got any pics?
  19. Stormin
    Seems quite cheap and most of the mechanicals there. Pity it'd cost a fortune in shipping.
  20. Stormin
    I think this could be worthy of a thread of it's own.
  21. Stormin
    If the studs you require are simply threaded both ends, can't you get some made? I needed some for the Ward LaFrance 1/2" UNF one end UNC the other, bought some long unc bolts and a UNF die and cut them down. Sure it's not impossible to get the die for Land Rover studs. I seem to remember from trying with L/R track rod ends they used an unusual size there and taps worked out around £100 for left hand thread. :shocked:
  22. Stormin
    I seem to remember years ago that one of the NORC rules about comp safari was that land rovers had to have the later and larger Series three studs and wheel nuts. Too many cases of failure with the older series stuff apparently.
  23. Stormin

    Hi Mike,

    Missed your presence on the forum recently. Hope all is well and you don't mind me asking you a few questions.

    First is a question I've posted on the forum regarding rear diff securing studs. Mine are severley rusted and I want to replace them. Can you tell me if they are captive, i.e. inserted from the rear or a standard stud threaded both ends. So far I've tried a few but only the nuts have come off. I don't really want to remove the diffs if I can help it.

    Secondly, a whle back you mentioned you had some spare instruments. Having looked through the parts that came with my truck, most instruments seem to be there, but the Air pressure gauge has seen better days. I don't supposed you'd be willing to part with just an air gauge or would you rather sell as a complete set?

    Most of the dash electrical switches and lights are in a bad way. Do you have spares of these you'd be willing to sell?

    Forgot to mention all the above is regarding Ward LaFrance M1A1 of course.

    Regards

  24. Stormin
    Thanks again Mark. But are they a standard stud threaded both ends? I've had to make some up myself for other areas on the brakes. Threads trend to be UNC one end and UNF the other, so can't buy them off the shelf. :-(
  25. Stormin
    And thanks to Vince. I've been meaning to contact Mike about some other parts he has as well. On another point. Some of the nuts and studs holding my rear diffs in are badly corroded. Does anyone know whether they are standard studs, threaded each end or wether they are splined and inserted from the rear like Land Rovers? I want to replace them but don't want to have to remove the diffs if I can help it.
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