Stormin

This was recommended by a friend who used it on his Alvis many years ago. http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm So I used it on my 101 chasis and axles after blasting. The chassis has not been outside and exposed to the weather since so it's impossible to vouch for the corrosion resistance. It's a two pack product and not easy to get the right consistency for spraying. Works out very expensive too, which is the main reason I won't be using it on the Ward. I could've got my chasis hot dip galvanised for not much more than it cost to paint.

Ask Catweazle how to upload video? :rofl: or was it Bernard? See here :- http://www.hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=9493&page=33

Be a shame not to see some of the photo's on here. Not many photo's of Abbots on here as I'm aware. Is it K60 engined? They have a very nice sound, so some video footage wouldn't go amiss either.

Public footpaths, and right to roam land probably complicates this even further. A lot of private land is unfenced so this can hardly be said to prevent public access. I wouldn't rely on a fence or wall getting you clear of the lawyers.

Is a needle scaler not too aggressive for the aluminium hull? Have you tested it on a portion yet? I'd be surprised if it didn't leave marks in the ally.

Maybe. Not sure of the different types of heavy oil. But either or I think the same applies as long as you pay the current level of duty for road fuel then you can run on it. Used to be the same with homemade biodiesel you had to declare it to customs and pay duty, but a discounted rate. Now I think it's duty free for home made bio, for the first 2500 litres or thereabouts.

RTA applies without a doubt. But what are the chances for getting pulled for something like over weight or over width? Licensing, insurance, test, and drink driving are a given as definate offences. Police could probably have a field day at most shows if they were so minded. Probably wouldn't do much for their popularity however. It'd most likely only come about if there's a complaint from a member of public or heaven forbid an accident.

Sounds similar to the system most modern cars run these days. Cycling the petrol back to the tank. I belive most even filter the fuel on it's return as well as pickup through the same filter chamber. I don't know if this is also intended as a method of heat exchange. Sounds like a lot of hassle to have to go to to get a classic MV to run, and not particualrly easy to hide on some. Think I'd be trying out the fuel mixes myself. You can legally run on fuel oil (red) as long as you declare any road mileage to customs and excise and pay the duty due.

These people should be able to help:- http://www.biggred.co.uk/repairpricing.html Thanks for that link safariswing, I've been looking for a source for npt thread nipples in the U.K.

That's exactly what they did. The old stuff used to bond better and inhibit rust better. Some of the zinc phosphate/oxide primers are good. Of course primers are not waterproof and you should topcoat as soon as possible. I'm thinking of giving this a try when I blast the Ward LaFrance. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/20-Litres-Quick-Dry-Zinc-Phosphate-Red-Primer_W0QQitemZ220366804347QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL?hash=item220366804347&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318 Seems good value for the quantity and cheap delivery.

That one looks ideally placed to take a piece out of your missus' head as well. :shake: There would've been no more help for a while then.

Have you cleaned out the inside of that block with anything? Looks remarkably gunge free for an old engine! Also looks promising for the condition of other parts even if the crank was poorly.

What happened to HMVF TV?

I've heard the modern unleaded stuff is bad for old fuel lines and many rubber seals. Not something that'd cause your problems Tim as the damage would be permanent but something to bear in mind.

And I thought a lot of vehicles of that era had timing adjustable at the wheel or certainly on the dash to allow for the variation in fuel supply. If it really does return to O.K. instantly you switch back to leaded it can only be the octane difference, nothing to do with valve timing or lubrication of valves and seats. Therefore I would imagine tweaking the timing of the spark should do the trick. Failing finding data in a book to suggest settings. Can't you run the engine and adjust the timing back and forth whilst running to see if there's an improvement in performance. I've set timing by ear a few times even on V8's to get up and running when no other equipment has been to hand.

Looking great with the cab on and in primer. I can see the logic in the rolling restoration when you can take it for a morale boosting spin now and again.

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

I thought so too, looks good value for money. Tried talking a friend of mine into having a look, but he's talking about a new kitchen instead.:nut:

I guess that end a bit of an engine rumble! Or was it hard to tell being a diesel? Wouldn't necessarily say that crank is beyond repair, so I wouldn't be getting rid if I was you. Keep it for a spare. You never know.

Glad it's all come together for you Clive. Worth the wait in the end and the effort to get the correct parts.

Those are tidy looking repair pieces. You've definately got someone who knows what they're doing with those. Worth while getting the professionals in sometimes if you want to do justice to a restoration.

Looks like you are having better weather for working outside and painting than we are at present. Looking good all round.

Sounds fair enough. It'd be costly to get that radius rolled and a good job with the welder and grinder should make it indistinguishable from original.

Thanks Andy. I'll give them a try too, if I get chance.

150x90 suggests PFC, as old style is usually specified by the old imperial dimensions 152x89. But I'll give them a go later if I can. Bit busy this morning as the missus is due in hospital for the birth of our second child.