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Richard Farrant

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Everything posted by Richard Farrant

  1. There are a number of websites explaining, here is one; http://www.anyvan.com/advice-centre/transport-to-france/transport-to-france-breathalyzers/
  2. Clive, Many years ago I had to seal a motorcycle petrol tank, I recall the instructions were to remove the petrol tap and coat thread in tank with grease and plug the hole with a wooden plug I think, anyhow, that is what i did, with no issues afterwards. So this would be a similar exercise with your Rover tank. regards, Richard
  3. I think the Bedford engine was an improved version of the Chev. It had a timing chain instead of gear driven camshaft, but above all, it had pressure fed big ends instead of the "squirt and hope" method on Chevs, where they had oil jets aimed at the big ends.
  4. The exhaust note sounds more like a BRM, than a GM Diesel .......... until it idles that is.
  5. Hi Tony, I can remember Studebakers being used for lime spreading around my village in Sussex in the 1950's. All of these would have been ex-British Army, and used to death, hence the lack of them. There are probably more Australian imported US6 (all 6x6) in the UK now, than those that saw British service. regards, Richard
  6. I never gave that a thought this morning when I did my weekly visit to Sainsburys, did wonder why the car park was so full, but put it down to being later than usual. Then at the check out i heard someone say they should be OK for supplies if they get snowed in ....... !!! :-D
  7. Mark, That looks very much like a Bedford bell housing, certain features are the same, any numbers cast on it? Also note the clutch arm comes out on the right, so a right hand drive vehicle.
  8. Tony, This is slightly off topic, but just to correct you, Adblue, or "pig p!ss" as you call it, is not mixed with the diesel, it is injected into the exhaust system, post-combustion.
  9. As the valves in a B Series head are only Inlets, the are not hardened and are cut straight into the cast iron on later engines. The BSF engine with alloy heads had screwed nickel chrome inserts for the inlets.
  10. When we preserved new engines in army workshops, after they had been test run, they had a lanolin based oil sprayed in the plug holes, intake and exhaust, then intake and exhaust sealed up and tape across crank pulley, to indicate engine not to be turned.
  11. Hang on there Mark, you might be close here ! Just looking at it the other way up, could be from a water tank trailer, the flap is to access the delivery taps, without opeing the doors.
  12. i would say that the hull number is probably lost, as it would have been on the upper hull to right of driver, which has been cut off and replaced by a lighter structure. Is there any number on your rego papers?
  13. Hi mate, Judging by the shape, it looks to have been a local mod for an open cabbed American truck of WW2 period, GMC CCKW, Diamond T, or Mack maybe? Does not look to be armour thickness and only light hinges. regards, Richard
  14. Richard, they mention the CAV regulator / control box, only so you get the correct loom, it is not supplied. it is best to get the box and dynamo checked by an auto electrician, if you suspect it, then you will be sure everything is correct when you rewire. regards, Richard
  15. Hi Aussie, Your Ferret is an ex-Australian army one, as it has the unique strengthening webs at the back of the hull. Someone has cut the top of the hull down to make it into a runaround, not unusual to find over there I think. Definitely not an official modification. Have fun with it. Forgot to add, the marks inside are from a disc cutter and gas cutting torch. Are you going to the military vehicle event at Corowa in March? regards, Richard
  16. I worked in REME workshops for a good many years, and in all that time, both working on Land Rovers and building engines for them, I never saw RSN13P plugs used in a FFR engine, always RSN12Y. So where has this all come from, as I do not think it was an official use, the RSN13P was specifically for RR B range and J60 engines.
  17. Hi Richard, I would go for the lower harness as you should have a CAV control box and will need brake lights. You will also need a flasher circuit, which can be incorporated, but they will need to know where the switch and lamps are to get the bable length, best discuss it with them, they were very helpful on two harnesses they made for me. regards, Richard
  18. I think the Champion J8C in my Bedford have been in there at least 15 years and never miss a beat. They are more reliable since having copper cores.
  19. Terry, I would be surprised if you could not get Champion J8 anymore, used in a lot of garden machinery, mowers, etc, plus Bedford petrol engines used them, there are equivalents in NGK and other makes.
  20. Hi Richard, Try Auto Sparks Ltd. for a wiring harness, made to order from original pattern. I had one for a MW from them about 12 years back when restoring one. Be warned that this means only one rear light on an original. I took the harness to a waterproof junction box hidden in rear of chassis, then made a harness for the rear light to suit my particular choice of lamps and position of them. Very good quality, modern pvc cable with coloured woven covering in the correct colour codes to suit the diagram. regards, Richard
  21. Hi Montie, It was a pleasure, glad to be of assistance. Must say it was the first time I had used Skype for inter-continental diagnostics ! Hope all goes well on the testing. best regards, Richard
  22. Adrian, I suspect a dreamer being involved. Having known this tank for so long, I can say it would have to be de-rivetted, in order to deal with the build up of rust trapped which has over the years caused a lot of stress cracks. Seeing as though the news item on the link was back in 2010 and nothing has come up in the local paper, etc, I suspect this idea is dead and buried ... hopefully. Since the council built a shelter over the tank at least it keeps the rain of it now.
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