mike65

Rattlesnakebob's idea is a good one, but you do need to be organised or have a friendly operator who want;s to help. When I was young, being brought up on a farm was handy. The loader used to come in handy for engine removal and transportation. Take engine out of donor car drive 150m to receiving vehicle job done. Even used it once to move am imobile scrap Rover P6 3/4 mile. OK it fell of once but hey. VW Beetles were easier better than pushing anyway. So a friendly farmer may also be an option. Mike

Thanks for posting Is that the infrared "invisible" tank. The panels change temperature so the infrared view can make it look like an estate car. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-14788009 Mike

Wrong type of Vampire http://www.mod-sales.com/vehicle/search/38550/The_Holy_Grail_for_Landrover_Enthusiasts!__The_VAMPIRE_101.htm But I do believe it was found lurking in a hedge. That sometimes happens with camoflage:D Mike

Some old Pirellis, a hacksaw and a tube on No Nails:D Can't guarantee they will stay on though. Can see arguments both ways, but surely if the vehicle is in a road worthy/legal condition steel or rubber should not be an issue. But I do see where Jack is coming from. He is thinging of A&E 2013/14 Mike

You are correct. It is a Tucano T1 in the 2011 (of course) display colours. Normally based out of Linton-on-Ouse. Second are the Hawk T1's of the display team from 4 FTS at Valley Mike

Hopefully I got this right the 109 started of with the Rolls Royce Kestrel Engine This was replaced by the Jumo 210. Then the Daimler Benz DB600 - DB605 series engines. The Later ones had nitrous oxide/methanol injection to boost performance. Mike

Not an expert on Ferrets in facy only know what I have learnt from reading the threads on this forum. However your problem sounds similar to one I had with my 109 FFR shortly after getting it. It would fire up and run for a short period of time, then start to cough and splutter followed by it stopping to run. Checked leads and all that stuff and eventually got to the carburetor. First thing I found was a split ) Ring between float chamber and venturi, Did not fix problem. Turned out to be a problem with the float valve, a foam type job was on it way out and not shutting off the flow, so too much fuel was getting through to burn properly and basically flooding it to a stop. It should be noted that the float would float in a bucket of petrol, but not well enougth to shut off the flow. Was obvious when compared to the new one. I suspect you may have a proper hollow float at least you can normally tell when those are going as they have fuel inside. Good luck with getting it going. Mike

It's a Land Rover it is meant to leak. Surely you must mean "it won't leak". Have got a few B**tpart bits on mine and have no problems with them, they seem to do the job adequately. If they do fail I still have the metal cover over the fuel tanks to sit on. Mike

Was quite sure where to put this' Found this footage on BBC website. A few National Guard trucks "wading" in the flooding caused by Irene About 20 seconds in http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-us-canada-14713121 That is what I call dedication. Mike

Well you have probably been thinking that lazy git has taken the summer off and not done anything to his truck for ages. Well you could be right except for 2 things. 1. I am still waiting for summer to arrive. 2. As summer has not arrived I have taken bits off and done them inthe garage Various bits have been removed?acquired cleaned and painted ready for refitting, strewn across the garage. Nato hitch removed, freed up after 4 days sitting in degreaser and releasing fluid. Cleaned and painted a nice shade of red. Managed to get a good day and some time off work so the tailgate is now painted. Managed to find time to finish prepping the tub and took a flyer on the bank holiday (sunday) and painted the tub green. Amongst the radio gear I acquired was a cable stowage box in need of a bit of work. Apparently is missing some protection to the terminals. Having found some NOS ones on the internet for sale, I decided not to buy them (as my Lotto numbers had not come up) and knocked something up from a bit of spare aluminium I had knocking about. No prizes for guessing what it was. Just need to save my pennies up for some new terminals and refit all the loose bits kicking around the garage. Mike

I took mine when they had just brought in the 125 learner rule and the old 2 part test. Part 1 was ride around some cones and the only real way of doing it was with a rider training course. The second part was on the road with a vloke standing on the street corner. Mike

The problem at the moment is it is turn up with a transit full of scrap, they just say where do you live and give you a wadge of cash. No ID or proof required. Off they go and a bit later the load turns out to contain a load of manhole covers or what have you hidden amongst it. Scrap man keeps quite as he cannot trace where it came from and he is probably doing some creative accounting with the cash. If he has to pay direct to a bank account, you need to spend time completing paperwork, proving who you are etc. That is enough to put may off as it means there is some sort of tracing route.. There will of course still be dodgy ones, but because they are now accountable they will probably pay much less for "cash" scrap, which probably means it is not worth the trouble to get it. However that is all theory, and as we all know theory and practice are two seperate items. Mike

Fine idea just signed it. Parents no all about cable theft now. They ran out of electric last Friday. Seems some thieving git had chainsawed 2 overhead power poles (carrying live electric) in order to nick what they thought was copper cable. It wasn't so the left it. Mike

Don't normally but anything on my whell nuts. Have always got them off easily with an extending wheel brace. Normally ony put a thin layer of copper slip on the mounting face of slloy wheels. Stops them bonding to the hub. Mike

Henry As the guys have pointed out if you get a vehicle registered as and "agricultural" vehicle you can only use it for that purpose. The only time it is allowed on the public highway it to travel from the home farm to a place where it is going to be doing agricultural work. So no good for shows etc. There are similar conditions for vehicles registered as recovery and plant. Lewis You can understand why loads of youngsters and inexperienced people do not get insurance when they get quotes like that. Mind you my first car (at 20) cost me just over a months wages to insure TPFT, but it was worth about 3 months wages. Mike.

Welcome in. Have a 109 FFR myself you will learn alot and they are pretty simple. If you manage to stop it leaking, it is because it is not raining or the oil is gone. Mike

Thats got me thinking. A lockable one would fit quite nicely in the can holder above the shunt box in my 109 FFR. Could be secured to the holder with 4 bolts welded to an external plate clamping onto the stand base. Nuts inside so it cannot be readily removed. OK you could not hinge it the seam but I am sure something can ge done which does not look out of place. Mike

Adrian Thanks for that. Thanks Only need 4, will ,look into costs. If to expensive will see if I can come up with an alternative. Mike

Have decided to build a radio table for mt S3 109, as cannot seem to find one. Have been emailed the engineering drawings, which are all in feet and inches. I suspect I am going to end up maing a metric one due to material availability and also to annoy the rivet counters:D So converting inches to millimeters is easy. Now the tricky bit the bottom (beneath the ply) is sheet steel described as 18 BG MS PANEL MS PANEL I am assuming is mild stell panel. 18 BG I am guessing is the thickness, but what is the modern equivalent? Also does anybody know of a source for roller/wheels synthetic resin 1" 1/8' diameter and 5/8' wide (thats 28.6mm diameter and 16mm wide approx) Mike

2 doors so good be a sports model. Mike

Totally agree. Fields are brilliant for the dumb stuff and learning the limits of a vehicle and your own abilities, with minimal impact/damage tom people and property. Part of the reason I do not worry about letting my 12 year old nephew drive the Landy around the odd field. It also helps that he does not seem to have the idiot gene:-D Some say I am mean, especially when I forced him to go out again later when his parents turned up. It does not however help with developing your road sense and predicting the other idiots. But knowing your abilities ans the vehicles does help you when you need to react. Learned my defensive road craft on a motorbike. mistakes are more painful so you learn quicker, in my opinion. If you are fitting wings don't use pop rivets, big bolts or weldiing are better. As I mentioned before set your targets and don't rush to meet them. In the meantime grab every opportunity yo drive various vehicles off road whenever you can. Learn what you can and most of all have FUN. Mike

Great pics, thanks for posting. This looks like a Percival Provost to me. Did they use it under a different name? Mike

Moce to see a young person you wants to drive something old. The guys are right you need experience, whicj only comes with time (and age). Driving around fields is fun and gives you a feel for vehicles however it is not the same as driving on a road. Grew up on a farm and started driving early, so I do know a bit about it. The only think you need to worry about in fields are hedge rows and rabbits. One does not normally do anything stupid and the other makes a nice pie if you hit it. On the road you have to deal with a whole range of numpties, lemmings and many other hazards. Many of which should be confined to fields and don't make good pies. You must also remember that an old vehicle is not as "good" as a modern one. They don't stop, turn. handle or accelerate like the new stuff. They are not computer controlled. You need to think werll ahead and anticipate the lemmings inorefer to allow for the vehicles reaction time. Not to sure on the licensing issues as they seem to keep changing things, when I did my test you has to be 21 to drive a truck (although not sure about old ones) There is some useful info here http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/DriverLicensing/WhatCanYouDriveAndYourObligations/DG_4022547 Like any vehicle, at your age. getting insurance will be a game and most likely more expensive than the vehicle. Whatever you do don't let us put you off, take your time. set yourself a goal and all going well you will achieve it. Start small ant work your way up as time and experience andfinances allow. Good luck Mike

Have you tried the Green Spark Plug Co. List/stock all sorts and give options. http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/ Mike

Signed it Mike