sirhc

Yes I did, now I see what you mean.

They do not start at 1970. They sent me the cards for mine and the DIS was '59.

The pistons are standard Jaguar parts, I have bought one from a Jaguar spares dealer to repiar a J60. The part number is C33089. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JAGUAR-4-2-ENGINE-LOW-COMP-PISTON-ASSY-STD-C33089_W0QQitemZ250372562112QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3a4b5e1cc0 Chris

Clive, You need to try some software called SpinRite. This trawls through your hard drive repairing bad sectors. Any files which have bits missing it will analyse and try to determine what the missing bit should be like. I've fixed loads of computers with it. http://www.grc.com/sr/spinrite.htm Chris

The leads just press into the cap and are held in place when the top is fitted. You can clean the cap and rotor arm with some emery paper, don't file them as you may remove too much material. When you replace the points don't touch those screws which are painted red. You should really read the instructions before touching the points. Chris

Yep image intensifier, details here http://www.abex.co.uk/sales/optical/night_vision/intensifiers/periscope5/index.htm

I had several of these which were FV432, but there were lots of applications. Let me know any numbers and I'll match it up for you. Incidently I have a bracket to fit this... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/XX1332-Image-Intensifier-Night-Vision-scope-NEW-Ferret_W0QQitemZ280369684352QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Telescopes?hash=item414755df80 into an M107, and possibly M578 if you are interested? Chris

Most of it, yes. I was talking more specifically about military vehicles and/or spares, I'll have to make more effort to fully qualify my statements in future.

If you have something good to sell, and the price is right, you don't need to work at it... it'll sell itself.

This is way off the original thread, but the CVRTs were mostly 48ATxx and 49ATxx. I've also seen some registered in xxAYxx.

Clive, We have an RAF regiment Spartan, 48 AT 14. When it went to the army they didn't change the number. I've never seen a photo of a Ferret with a BT number, or even an AT number though. I've got the RUC book open now Chris

34 BA 57 would be a Ferret Mk 1 from 1951, contract no. 6/FV/4267. There were no Ferrets as far as I know with BT numbers, but I suppose it could have been changed. I can't imagine a Ferret would make a very good under cover vehicle!

Hi Bob, I don't think BT is correct, do you mean BA? Chris

Robin, I'm fairly sure you can interchange the T and W alternators. Chris

I haven't! Sounds like something has gone wrong somewhere...

02 CC 84 or 03 CC 59?

Mike, There are 2 seperate Canvas Question threads! Chris

Not cheap but.... http://www.historic-military-vehicle-brake-carburettor-fuelpump-spares-kit.com/humber_FV.htm

Some of you might want to read the date on the original post! Chris

I suppose it would be a good idea, since it's in bits. I'll have to get a price!

Have you got the letter from the Tank Museum declaring the date in service? You will need this in order to register it. Use Footman James for insurance. Insure it on the MOD number as this is what will be on the dating letter.

It's not a lot of help but here's what the DVLA says: The vehicle details for Q255 GDB are: Date of Liability 01 09 1988 Date of First Registration 03 08 1985 Year of Manufacture Not Available Cylinder Capacity (cc) Not Available CO2 Emissions Not Available Fuel Type Heavy Oil Export Marker Not Applicable Vehicle Status Unlicensed Vehicle Colour GREEN Vehicle Type Approval Vehicle Excise Duty Rate for vehicle 6 Months Rate Not Available 12 Months Rate Not Available

This is how they have mostly ended up....

To get this thread back on track, here are some more photos. Obviously the bodywork is going to be the hard job, but with the body on its side I have some space in the garage to work on other bits. I've spent a bit of time in there with the door closed and the heater on. I'm going to rebuild the running gear first so that when the body is done it's all ready to assemble. I started off with the engine.... Apart from being very dirty it seemed ok and turned over nicely. I took the head off just to check it out and it did need a new head gasket. I also had to repair some threads on the head and remove broken studs from the exhaust manifold. My tip for working on engines is to drain the oil, take the head off and stand them up on the flywheel. Then you can get the sump off and have a look in there too.. Next on to the rear diff, which I knew needed some work as mentioned earlier. Can you see the problem yet? Old and new pinions, good job I was able to get a rebuild kit for these. I am going to source some new bearings and seals and put it back together. I've already stripped the hubs and I'm waiting for the rebuild kits to arrive. The US Army seem to have a very good system of supplying everything you need to repair something. This is a hub seal and bearing kit. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140371160894&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123

How much money has been spent on it to date? It would be interesting to see how much each minute of running time has cost. £40,000 would restore plenty of other vehicles.