rbrtcrowther

I think i know where you are coming from:confused: The three hooks in the crane at work are 1/ headache ball single fall 3.3 tons (very small) 2/ main block 3 falls 9 tons and 3/ The bloomin heavy we hardly ever use 9 falls 25 ton block. Its huge but has the same rope size just alot more pulleys. all the SWL's are marked on the hook. The winch is only rated at about 3.3tons. The wire has a rating of about 7.8 tons and the test piece broke at 12 tons! A flat webing strop has a safety factor of about 7 so our 10 ton hoist straps should lift 70 tons new. as the gear gets nearer the hook the factor is reduced for shackles, chains ect and the crane itself is tested to a factor of 12 percent overload. Its down to the abuse the strops are subjected to on the ground and in use. Eg a boat hull is an irregular shape and loads a strop in odd ways so they have a huge factor of safety. shackles and chains are less prone to abuse and the crane itself is only really at risk from operator error and having a huge safety factor is pretty pointless. Keep the info flowing i'm learning new stuff all the time:D

The last few times i have logged in the front home front page thingy is all to pot but i can still use the buttons to get to the forum ect. there are no pictures ect, seems to load wrong:blush:

I'm really enjoying this thread tons of good info being passed round:D i shows what can be dpne with a little thought. I can never remember which way the saddel and U bolts are ment to be fitted and always end up wandering of to find the book. So thamks for the saddel and dead horse thingy. Having now got our scammell set up with good holding points and up to 26T we now realize what a rubbish winch we have and the skin will remain firmly on the rice pudding cos we can't put the snatch blocks back to the scammell or we might pull the arse out of it. We should have brought a propper truck with a rated ground anchor to put the snatch blocks to:-) Can't wait for us to get on to compound rigging as i really need to brush up on the ratings and losses ect. Keep it coming i love it:thumbsup:

yes i like the colour too:cool2: good choice:D

Good luck with you efforts hope is a silly little fault you find. We had the whole cooling system in bits rad, pump, block flushed oil filter removed for a while oil pressures checked,head and block checked, timing checked manifolds checked. 10 mins fast tickover cooked it. Got so hot it needed 1/4 throttle to keep running it was so tight and even with a hose in the filler still would not cool down, then we tryed to see if it would tick over and it locked solid....game over:embarrassed: We had no tractors left and it had to be used and i managed to keep it going for 5 hours with bottles of water and leaving it in the sea for as long as possible. but the las run killed it and just got too tight. No explanation:embarrassed:

I might be a bit confused but i thiught a lean fuel mix would cause overheating:red: but it's been ages since i played with petrol engines. hows your oil pressure? the oil helps to cool engines down too has it got a cooler? We had a fordson major with a six cylinder in it and all of a sudden it decided to start getting hot for no reason at all, even when it was parked in the sea half way up the block it over was overheating. managed to make it last the bank holiday through nursing it and leaving it in the sea. was unable to cool it down at the end of the day and when i stopped it it never turnned again....solid. no explanation and unecnomical to spend hours looking into it.:-(

Hate to be the bringer of bad news but it sounds like it went tight and the starter woulden't turn it :shocked: Might even be getting so hot the heads are warping and letting gasses pass inti the water jacket then on cooling sealing back up. Is your water pump working? has the impeller fallen off? Not really familier with your engine but hope its just a quick fix:blush:

can we have some piccys of the underside and the gubbins that make it work? how you made the axles and gearing ect:-)

ahh...simple pimple:D perhaps its some kind of override if the fan cluch fails in service?

was just watching the box tonight and a Bulmers cider ad came on with i think a scammell highway man towing a Bulmers trailer:shocked: Anyone know whos it is?

Here is a bit of footage of said scammell on a short test run. little bit of gental whiring in 4th, 5th ok only just managed to touch top gear for a moment as i had to stop and turn round but you get the idea:-) Also forgot how slow reverse gear is or i woulden't have gone so far past the gate:nut: Something went wrong...

Hopefully it will bw on the road in a few months so i'll see how bad it is. might just invest in some ear defenders:-)

I'll try to get mine on the road first and see how bad it is will tighten the nut up first, funny how all other gears are silent even at full chat

not sure about the bolt thingy perhaps a piccy might help:-)

oooh nice whats the engine? those back tyres a little small or is it just the angle of the picture?

I havent got knocking and ratteling in 5th an 6th or a wobbly gearstick but it does whine like hell in 6th. Any thing to do with this spline or should i just buy some ear defenders:nut:

Ahh the old viscous fan problem:embarrassed: loats of old shoguns suffer this problem. the fan hub will fail either unlocked or usuall locked its to do with the goo inside going off or leaking out. have a googe about viscous fan oil but i'm sure it is hugely expensive for a tiny amount. there is a bi metal spring that controls the fan in the center of the hub. and easy way to check if the hub is working is have someone cold start the engine while you look and listen to the fan. Start up and then put some revs on the fan should run at full speed and roar with the wind, after a few monents it will "unlock" and the fan should go into free wheel mode if you are really brave you can stop a car one with your fingers:shocked: As the air through the rad warms up usually when stationary or off roading the bimetal valve will allow fluid transfer within the hub and the unit will lock and the fan can be heard roaring at revs. You may be able to heat the bi metal up with a hot air gun and see if it the locks the hub. only way to lock it is to drill it and blot it up i ithink, like i did on the pajero costs more in fuel running that huge fan all the time and a fan that big will sap about 6 to 6 hp at full chat:shocked: Is your rad getting hot enough to engage the hub?

yes there are still bargins to be had usually on the stalls set up by private sellers who clearing out their stuff for a bit of extra cash. I find the "trade" stall prices are just to silly these days and you've got to ask if its worth saving up an extra few and buying something new with papers to certify:-) £90 for hold fast gorund anchor thingy:nut: I can make one for less than half that:shocked: " but thats what they are going for he says" "and thats what its staying for i says":D and toddle off to the next stall to look at shiny overpriced brass stuff:yawn:

Perhaps we can all stay safe if we over do it:D The biggest shackle/chain you can use for the job. stronger than any load you can put on it. Oh and make sure you connect it to something that is firmly attached to the thing your towing:cool2: I often see lots of second hand sets of lifting brothers for sale on trade stalls around steam rallys. having looked at some of them closely they would not pass an inspection. and they want silly money for them too. I've heard people saying they will be fine for use at home and for towing ect but this is the sort of thing that fails and explodes bits of chain link all over the place. I'm not saying al of them are knackerd but this bear in mind if the thing you are towing / lifting is near the max SWL on your decidedly second hand overpriced new purchace :-) The man who inspects out gear at work is really sound and is more than happy to have a look at my newly purchased overpriced decidely second hand stuff. he will either say yey or nay or sometimes remove/ renew the termimal links ect. However being slightly in the know i haven't managed to buy anything dodgy but i still have it checked by the nice man for free.

this also looks like the tackle fastening the cable to the casualty failed. See how the cable flopped to the ground. but if they were chains that failed bits could have been shot anywhere. once again its the gear that causes the issues and miscalculating the forces required. the simple soloution is dont use tack with a lower rating than the winch your connecting to:nut:

Well this is the most helpfull post in a long time:-) and clearly illustrates how the forces required can vary in different situations. ill be making a hard copy of it. Many thanks. As i said before i had no idea there was damage calculation to take into consideration:bow:

Only one word for this "wow" A true hard work restoraton. really impressed people like you really keep history alive. all the best in your search .

Compleat with a shot of the water born version of concorde:D those were the days :-)

More like tape up the air intake on the other competitors:cool2:

What are the rules for the truck trial? the ones i have seen alow you to take shunts round cains and have multiple attemps to climb the impossible whereas landy trialing is non stop and when you fail your done:embarrassed: