john1950

I have taken them apart by taking all of the nuts off, then slowly inflating until I can get some blocks of wood in between the two half's. Then after deflating working on the half with the studs in first either with a bead knocker or a Kango hammer work around using a splash of water around the bead. When you get the first half out turn it over onto a tyre stand or large chock of wood with the bottom side wall clear of the ground and do it all over again. Keeping your toes clear. Operator needs lubricating while this activity is going on.

Hello and welcome, you do not mind work driving a vehicle of that vintage.

I have just done a job with a shot blast with a friend. It was a steel frame for a veranda, Noise awful, mess unbelievable, effort required lots, he is 6feet four, results as expected. But if he had had neighbours he would have needed to wait until they had gone on holiday. He tried reusing the shot but the least bit of dampness and it clogged up and he was using a large industrial unit. I think to hire the 2 tool compressor for 4 days was about £150 including transport and fuel.

I think it is good someone asking questions based on safety issues. Bearing in mind drivers using some vehicles are not used to driving them on a daily basis. That little phrase What If needs asking and answering a lot more. Stay Safe out there.

There is a man up your way who may be able to help with a used unit, if you contact John Coats at Holly House Hire. He has a vast knowledge of used parts. It is a few years since I have spoken to him and I cannot put my hands on his phone number. I think the Leyland 0.400 used the same 24v starter.

Just a good quality detergent diesel engine oil.

Are you going to be the go to guy for tracks? If so what is this for?

I was told when you see the sign for Harrogate turn around you cannot afford to live there.

Hello, I do not want to start a bun fight but most Southern people think the north ends at Leeds and Manchester. So the North East is around Hull. I am away back into my shed with my wipet. Welcome.

I have recently gone through this problem with a similar starter on a HL4 lister. Eventually having to purchase a new one that I was lucky to find. Also trying to find parts to repair a spare, the local not young repairer is looking for parts and is confident he can get what he needs. If you cannot get yours repaired locally I have no doubt he could sort it for you. Getting it here and back would just need organising.

Parts for these CAV starter motors are getting really hard to find, especially the return spring and internal switch. I have seen much worse pinions than yours still working.

That would be the theory. I just used try to stop the mess. Some times engine oil leaks can be caused by restricted crank case breathers. Jaguar XK engines in particular they also smoke sometimes caused by a blocked gauze in the front of the head. These old engines were not designed to last this long. They just become incontinent with age. Keeping them going is an art, also a labour of love carried out by you restorers. I am just looking over the fence trying not to become a resident critic.

Just me pence worth. When I have had problems with thin sumps before, I have used a piece of thin flat strap drilled to fit the sump holes to trap sump and gasket just that little bit tighter without distorting the sump. It is usually easier to do corners separately. Cork gaskets always shrink so joints have to be checked for tightness after a short while. If the cork is moist it will not break as easily when it is being handled but it will dry out in use as it is exposed to engine heat. Use just a thin film of your favourite jointing compound on the lower side.

I have a few 2 amp x16.2mm x 4.8mm dia also the longer ones. if they are any good to get you away.

While looking for something else came across these.

I will go on the hunt and see what I can find.

If you look under bits from the dark box I am sure there are a couple.

There were some good photo's of the CVRT on the Falkland's in that program Mike Brewer did about the Chinook.

That makes a statement of intent

Looking for hair line cracks is best done in the dark.

This is a Land Rover rear step modification kit.

Civvy reg number

More fuel without extra air means black smoke. It's all about optimums, intake air filter cleanliness, air intake temperature, height above or below sea level, fuel delivery pressure, both low to the pump and high to the injectors, injection time and duration, and compression peak pressure. Then the person on the controls makes it talk or not. I only used to get 10 out of a Scania 420 auto running on 6 axles pulling a curtain sider over the hump to Manchester from the North East, It was usually fully freighted both ways. I could get 17 out of a manual ranger plus splitter 460 CF Daf running nearly the same route pulling a reefer but only on 5 axles running 38 tonnes down and 22 back. With a 420 Scania auto it was 12. With a C6SFL in a Vickers Vigor I used to use between 5 and 7 gallons per hour on dozer work, it was about the same pulling a 9/11 box. Depending on ground conditions.

I did not think you would get that kind of millage running at that weight. To get a like for like comparison an identical rig with a turbo or supercharger would have to run the same route on the same day. Todays trucks use a lot of fuel running ancillary's and the exhaust system. One of the Premium's I drove would sound the warning buzzer and put stop immediately for no reason, very disconcerting while motorway driving. When I got used to It was spot a pothole and give it a run through and off it went, it was like that from new. Any C6FSL that I drove in plant got through the work but were noted for being thirsty.

I used to drive a Premium artic, basically a Volvo in disguise. Always gave better fuel consumption than the equivalent FM. But the electrics were another matter. I wonder what sort of fuel consumption you are going to get out of the DT and trailer freighted up.