fv1609

Sorry to hear that Paul. I hate to say it but in my PM I did say: I would take a voltmeter & just check the volts go up as the engine revs.

Nope

Nope

Nope

Not a fan of the roll cage I must admit, but maybe this was used for 'off-roading fun' rather than owned by a MV enthusiast? Many years ago someone I know witnessed his friend die at an AWDC event when his Champ overturned & crushed him.

Oh they do twist, then they ummmmh.................................. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/fv1620/Dscf0451.jpg[/img]

Gosh no! Men were men in those days ;-)

Wow well quite a list! Others I have seen over the years: A dog is not just for Christmas, save some for Boxing Day. Support mental health or I'll kill you. God is not dead, He is just in Miami for a fortnight. I am the man your mother warned you about.

I had to get close to a lorry I was following to read this: "Any closer & you can sniff my diff"

Simon, just re-read your post. Sounds as if your spares are Birfield. You are lucky to have those, but it could be Tracta, Chobham or Birfield on the vehicle! It easy enough to dismantle it all. The difficult bit is assembling the hub so that the lips of the two hub seals don't get squashed by the sharp rims of the hub assembly & subsequently leak oil. The hub should be packed with grease, a lot of seals get damaged, I have seen this on Humbers done by owners & because of the vehicle history done in service :roll:. This will happen if you don't have the special tool Sleeve FV252151. I had one manufactured. I can give you the dimensions or how to fake one using two sizes of stock metric tubing. The inner seals are unobtainable, a few years ago I had the last ones that Budge had, but the outer seals were obtained from a bearing company the next day delivery. Once the hub is back on there is a special tool to be made to hold it in position as you remove the aligning sleeve. But I use a wide jawed welding clamp & holds it ok. The grease in the hub is not adequate lubrication, oil has to be injected through the lubricators on the hub housing until it flows into the other joint mounted in the diff. Before you take the wheel stations apart. Drain oil out of the diff & see if you get metal particles suggestive of diff failure. If the spare shafts came with the vehicle, one has to wonder why the previous owner didn't replace them himself.

Nope

It works for me quite well on concrete, is it that brickwork is more porous? But if it is really stubborn, I use it in conjunction the various degreasing solutions that can be fed into it concurrently. But the first thing with an oil spillage, is to disguise it by covering it up with earth sprinkled around to avoid a b*llocking :-(

Nope. But I found it silly & pointless to provide 2 new bolts for the base plate which were 2mm too long. I just used the originals. I have kept the plug gaps as before. I followed the advice & really opened them up but found there were starting problems esp when the engine was very hot. Also suggested was removing the BST lead to stop the ballast resistor from being shorted out on start up as now there was such a good spark. I have abandoned this as I found that when starting after some days & maybe because my batteries are not that wonderful, that I needed all the volts I could get to get ignition. The batteries take a hell of a current & drops the volts quite a bit on these not so wonderful batteries.

These are all very plausable suggestions I have to say, but nope.

Simon, do you have to go into 4WD to get traction? Or does it drive ok on 2WD ie on the rears? There were 3 types of rear joint fitted to pigs. Originally it was the Chobham joint but there were problems with the articulating pads coming off due to the retaining springs failing. In desperation in NI wksps, Tracta joint (supposedly weaker) were fitted from GS Humbers. When Mk 2 pig came along late 1972 to mid 1973, they still could have had either joint. It was not until 1974 that the Birfield joint came along, although the upgrade went on for about 5 years. But as they ran out of the correct steel, of the 487 Mk 2 Pigs only 383 had Birfields fitted. You are right the Birfield joint was not in a parts book but was described in EMER WHEELED VEHICLES N 257/2 Mod Instr No. 10. But sounds as if you have Birfield, should be identified by red paint - trouble is everybody seems to put this damn red paint on their wheel stations to some how make it look good. Have a look at: http://www.hmvf.co.uk/pdf/PIGINAPOKE.pdf I think the relevant EMER is in this reprint. It is a hotch potch of EMERs don't be put off by the date 1952 that is the date of the earliest one as it covers the Humber 1 Ton GS as well. But check first to be sure: http://www.robvanmeel.nl/index.php?HeadDepartmentID=2&DepartmentID=5&CategoryID=55&ProductID=421

I like functional vehicles. I detest fast cars, custom cars, BMWs, shinny cars, cars without proper bumpers, custom cars, racing cars & that stuff. What started it for me I think was seeing an in service Army Land Rover which must have had a big gash in the side. It was repaired with a piece of aluminium just riveted on. That appealed to me, it won't go any slower because of this repair, it serves its purpose. Military vehicles seemed to epitomise functionality. The other influence was growing up in the Dinky toy era, now my eyesight is not so good so I have larger toys on the scale 1:1 8-)

Nope

Pressure washer

Yes I agree, it was a big step that took a long time to take. What held me back for so long was not being able to see what I was buying even when he had a stall at Malvern it was only a general purpose leaflet. The purpose of my postings with pictures was to help people see what they were getting. Expensive yes, but what price efficiency & reliability? What price a roadside breakdown or a breakdown on a motorway or the dreaded one moving into the middlelane of a motorway :shake: On that basis I have fitted one on pig & hornet.

Nope

What special equipment is this man carrying?

Nope, the B60 kit vat + p&p is nearly £200.

Merlin, I can't see the crest. Of the text I can make out ANTWERP. Most text on vehicles will be vehicle depot markings which is required to be painted out on issue to units. There was a vehicle depot at Antwerp. What other characters can you make out?

Yes OK Neil near enough, it was 1911. Some of the many exercises seem complicated, over-disciplined or even comical. But I suppose in the heat & distress of battle an adherence to automated drills would help the soldier function with best efficiency considering the appalling things he would be expected to witness. These stretcher bearers would not be trained to fight & would have had a non-fighting trade. Like my grandfather who enlisted well before WW1. He was an accomplished musician & joined the Army merely to play in the band & see the world. He was stationed in India & they were promised leave at home. To their dismay the journey did not end in the UK but they were sent straight to the front & trained as stretcher bearers. I never knew my grandfather, but he was devastated by what he saw & would never talk about it other than telling my mother on many occasions that after all that slaughter "men would never go to war again." My grandfather on the left with his brothers.

Yes!