fv1609

What are these men up to & when?

Yes

Richard, I'm surprised you obviously don't understand the system over there. You don't buy insecticide. It is earned by trading use of your goat, horse, dog, wife, rat etc depending on how much insecticide you need.

One has to wonder, would those Green Goddesses have been of some value rather than scrapping them, given that the emergency services are "overstretched"?

The first photo looks like High Gloss, Deep Bronze Green. I have never seen a LtWt that was not close in colour to DBG on manufacture. The second photo looks like IRR NATO Green with disruptive IRR Black that has faded a bit. There seems to have been only one version of Gloss non-IRR NATO Green & that was was used as anti-slip paint on vehicles. There was also an IRR NATO Green non-slip paint. (I suppose a glossy paint couldn't be called non-slip) To complicate things there was a High Gloss Olive Drab which could look like a glossy NATO Green. There was also a High Gloss Dark Green BSC 641 which could be mistaken for a dark DBG.

I shall either be in Wolf + 1-Ton Cipher Trailer or RUC Pig. The MVs are usually at the top of the field. There may be another pig there, but mine is the emeraldy green one.

Worth going to, Mr & Mrs HF have built up the MV section over the last couple of years. http://www.purbeckrally.co.uk/ There was some reports on here about the success of last year's event. I was going to post a link but when I did a search on here, I got "You may have meant to search for pubic rally" . This did actually give a result! But I think I'll leave it at that.

Oh well maybe next year then? Or perhaps hold a condenser testing weekend on Salisbury Plain 8-)

Robert, I think I saw you at W&P or somewhere recently. Next shows for me are Fishbourne, Chichester 4/5 Aug. Purbeck, Dorset 18/19 Aug, Great Dorset SF 29 Aug- 2 Sept. Although I suspect you may be at Beauleau AJ in your rare Mk1 9x9, I won't be carrying the megger around. So Dallas then!

Nobody wanted their condensers testing, I think I'm fighting a lost cause :?

Good news, my cheque book + money has been found :-D :-D :-D :-D :-D It was not lost at W&P as I had thought. On the return trip yesterday I visited a friend who has a large collection of MVs. My belongings were found under one of his pigs......where I had been inspecting the transfer box! So none the less, I think big shows in particular a money belt is required, just in case I end up horizontal again ;-)

Yes, I managed to start standing up for short periods at 1600, then for a few hours it was just crawling around. Then I started looking inside a Humber & I revived more rapidly. But driving was a no no so had to wait till monday.

Ah no I didn't mean I had been frivolous & used up a cheque book & spent £200. I had been quite frugal. All I bought was a Danish Army generator giving 6/12/24 volts at 20 amps, a 1911 RAMC manual, a roll of gasket paper, a dipstick & a brush for the flue in my fridge. Trouble is, I don't know whether it was pinched or was lost in the mud. I did get carried away a bit sat night & was confined to being horizontal all day sunday. So whether it was my fault or whether someone took advantage of me :shake: I just don't know.

It was an expensive show for me. Despite a few bargains, these were wiped out by the realisation that my cheque book together with £200 went missing :oops: On the other hand there were some bargains & in particular Lee gave me a new B60 cylinder head. So I suppose if I take the Wolf to the next two shows instead of the Pig, I will be square again. Yes I know swings & roundabouts, but bl**dy annoying waste. Next year it will be a money belt & no going to the bar!

Nobody seems to be aware how hot their TF/box gets. But clearly is too hot & is being boiled/frothed out of the breather. Last summer there was no external seepage as the TF/box was losing oil to the diff. Replaced the main seal, which cured it now got the breather loss problem. Over the weekend have obtained 4 opinions, 3 of which are from ex-REME. Suggestions have been: Use engine SAE 50 Use engine SAE 30 Check that the gasket between the diff & TF/box is not missing as blue goo may mean the TF/box gears/bearings are getting pushed sidewards & being loaded. But I can see no evidence of diff spline marks going beyond their normal position in the female end of the TF/box shaft. I was able to reuse the original paper gasket, so it has not closed up like using a blue goo. Although SAE 50 & 30 are less viscous, there will be more friction. Someone suggested that Saracen or Saracen had an instruction to add a molybdenum agent to some components for this sort of problem? I'll need to look at some EMERs/Servicing Schedules or does anyone know? So would some friction reducer be an appropriate addition? If so what?

2WD most of the time I am not stuck in 4WD. The TF box is intact there are no baffels. It is being filled up to the correct level I have inspected 4 Humbers over the last few days & they are expelling oil from the breather.

T indicates all the wood has been tropicalised & able to resist the efforts of termites, worms etc. It only is used on vehicles that have wood.

As TF/box gets hotter than the diff I imagined oil was being heated up & expelled through breather. But I don't know if TF/box is more likely to get hot normally. TF/box is at rear, prop shaft from front drives TF/box to rear diff. TF/box also drives prop shaft to front where power can be engaged to drive front wheels for FWD. I have checked it is not stuck in FWD. Oil is OEP 220 as painted on TF/box & stated in Servicing Schedule. It was from a sealed drum of genuine military stuff & has been used to fill up the diff & tracta joints.

I have been playing with the shims & pinion on the defunct donor axle. I now fully appreciate that the shims have a very crucial role to the preloading of pinion- crown. Sorry to have been thick to those who are trying to help me. Having played around I realise I would not in fact have changed the shims. I realise now I had only thought about it. The defunct diff have shims are covered with red sealant that matched up with the deposits on the diff. So sorry for misleading info. The shims on the diff are the original set as provided at REME rebuild. Comparing earlier photos all I had done was to clean up the shims & to do this they got separated. So the problem is to ascertain if the shims are correct. But surely any excess heat here would have generated extra heat in the diff not in the TF/box? As both the TF/box & diff had REME rebuilds at the same time. I would tend to feel that it would have been set up correctly. So that then comes round to the problem of why extra heat is being generated in the TF/box, sufficient to cause expulsion of the oil from the breather?

Yes Chris you were the only one adventurous enough to submit you spares to the scrutiny of Herr Megger. I don't know why people are so timid. I think there is a certain over confidence in the believe that at an unused condenser, despite its age, will be perfectly alright. Unfortunately these components do deteriorate with age, like the rest of us :-o

Looking in the IPC I see shims were available in 2, 3, 4 & 25 thou. Obviously extremely critical. But: a) I have difficulty grasping why it is critical to that extent. b) I have difficulty grasping how this can generate more heat in the TF box, if the spacing influences the pinion to crown wheel in the diff. c) Have no idea how the correct shim combination is achieved. d) If the shims directly influence the pinion-crown wheel relationship are they in effect a diff issue? In the sense that whatever TF/box I fit I should always use the shims & spacer plate that were associated with the diff that they came from?

Andy & Mick, thank you for your input on this puzzler. I get a bit befuddled as the splines engage linking the diff to the TFbox & they do this with about an inch of engagement. Looking at the shaft from the dissected TF/box & playing with it in the spare diff, it seems to have plenty of room for engagement of appx one inch. I find it hard to grasp that if is a few shims either way it would make the slightest difference. But as you have pointed out it must be important as shims are provided. Given such depth of engagement I can't visualise in practical terms. How I can determine at what degree of shimming I use given that the two units mate quite successfully with no need force them together. The Inspection Standards for the TF/box only give a figure for the tolerance of backlash between the gears, so not much help there. I think I might take the dissected TF/box to W&P. So if anyone can give me description with the item at hand I would be most grateful. I shall be in Wolf + Cipher trailer in Living History with Ex Mil Land Rover Assn on the main road just over the bridge from the showers. Thanks.

Yes, well when I had 2 shims, I got overheating. Both TF/box & diff have tags indicating they had Base Wkshp overhauls at the same time. On second transfer box I used the 4 shims that were there but, I don't know maybe I should have tried 2? Although I would have thought more shims meant less risk of over engagement & heat?

So last summer was the problem oil from TF/box to diff. Winter removed the TF/box & replaced the main seal between TF/box & diff. The TF/box was very difficult to dismantle. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/fv1620/DSCF2822.jpg[/img] The spacer can be seen on the diff & a 2 shims. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/fv1620/DSCF2820.jpg[/img] As it was such a barman to remove it was no surprise that re-assembly would be equally difficult. In retrospect I assume I had caught a washer which got mangled & I found this on dismantling after Kemble. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/fv1620/Dscf3806.jpg[/img] I took another TF/box & fitted it with its spacer & several shims which were associated with it. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/fv1620/DSCF3828.jpg[/img] Yes Richard can only explain it by getting too hot & bubbling out the breather. I cannot find out from Humber owners if they find the TF/box gets significantly hotter than the diff. Checking a FV1601 at Ardingly, we found all his TF/box oil had been lost through the breather. I have checked the level in the Hornet & that is significantly down. So it seems to be a common problem. But my dead pig which drove 130 miles engine failure was serviced before the disaster. There is no sign of TF/box leakage & level is correct. The EMERs only cover Field & Unit repairs & are no help. So is the choice of spacer shims critical & how does one set it up correctly?

Yes is very nice, I like a very much to here from my freinds in Warren Piece Show. but how big is present for entry? please you bring your neice looking sisters & mothers for me to meat in mobile prison shed when I go the rid of the Cliv. I think he a little potty in his old age, he like sniffing other people condensers i think whilst he pretend to test for them. he no realise noboddy is interest to playing with there condensers. when he went go at the kemble only of the chris bring him condensers to test. wack up Cliv, noboddy care if there condenser work. also he bring again his old pads for ferret to sell, i hop the ferret has she has not used them. but may be you like & try them & seats is provide.