Traffic Monkey Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Hi all, I am the proud new father of a Triumph TRW restoration project. Apologies for the long thread but hopefully it will give a good idea of what I have let myself in for. I've had motorcycles for nearly 20 years and never undertaken anything like this, in fact air filters, spark plugs and oil filters (yes I am ashamed) is far as I have gone in the past so this is going to be a very steep learning curve which I am looking forward to. It was bought locally near Shrewsbury and not run for many years and mainly stored in boxes Details below: - Frame No: TRW 22159 NA Engine No: 6258 NA Date of Registration: 09 07 1968 Registration Mark: MUJ 91F (If anyone knows of any of the history please get in contact) I have the original 1968 log book and a V5 from 1984, from looking at several web sites I think it’s a 1952 Mk1 but will need to confirm this. When nearer completion I will try and apply for an age related plate with the help of the Triumph Owners Club The good: -. Frames finished and powder coated (unfortunately in black but looks really nice, should I re-do in green?) NOS petrol tank NOS front and rear Dunlop wheels NOS Solex carb New front mudguard New tool box Nice condition oil tank New head and front wheel bearings The bad: - Previous owner seems to think a piston ring is broken, engine turns nice and freely but will have ago at stripping down (with help) No exhaust system No rear wheel bearings (can’t find anywhere yet) No wiring loom The Ugly: - The front forks, brakes, wheel spindles are totally stripped down to every nut, bolt and washer. All in one box and not a clue yet what goes where. Rear mudguard in poor condition the same as the airbox Overall I think I have landed on a nice start for my first restoration project although I will need a lot of your help and advice to bring this beauty back to good working condition If anyone is interested I will have ago at posting some photos of progress Wish me luck TM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gritineye Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 That should be a manageable first project, you are not alone TN, we have a resident magician on here who will no doubt have some helpful input. Meanwhile I assume you've seen this thread: http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=12555&highlight=triumph+trw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Best of luck ,do you have Handbook/partsbook?.CW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 Thanks guys, I think I have now read most threads on here regarding TRW's. Luckily all the military handbooks/parts books came with the bike which is useful. First few questions of many to get me started. Is there a Haynes manual that covers this model What's the colour paint code for the standard military green colour that has the gold pin striping I have a list of wanted parts, which forum is best to add them Cheers TM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 I dont know of a Haynes manual if you have all the manuals why would you want one,they only tell you everthing you dont need to know. The colour from factory was Forest Green,They were repainted Deep bronze green, there is some arguement over this,if you paint it deep bronze green it will be fine.mine was so long in service it ended up in nato. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 True, the technical handbook does look comprehensive I was thinking that a Haynes manual may be a little easier to understand Thanks for the info on the colours, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swill1952xs Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 True, the technical handbook does look comprehensive I was thinking that a Haynes manual may be a little easier to understand Thanks for the info on the colours, Haynes manuals used to be brilliant years ago.......... now they have detailed explanations of how to change headlight bulbs, and the things you really want to know about, you can never find. :-| Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 The colour from factory was Forest Green,They were repainted Deep bronze green,there is some arguement over this,if you paint it deep bronze green it will be fine.mine was so long in service it ended up in nato. Interesting, is Forest Green a lighter colour? I worked on a few when they were in service, probably near the end, and they were in Deep Bronze Green, which I would say was as from the factory, because of the gold lining on the tank. I do recollect hearing once, that a batch was ordered by the Forestry Commission, makes me wonder if those in Forest Green were theirs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 Hopefully the photo will upload, I take it this is Deep Bronze Green Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Farrant Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Hopefully the photo will upload, I take it this is Deep Bronze Green I would say so. Have you got the tank badges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 Interesting, is Forest Green a lighter colour? I worked on a few when they were in service, probably near the end, and they were in Deep Bronze Green, which I would say was as from the factory, because of the gold lining on the tank. I do recollect hearing once, that a batch was ordered by the Forestry Commission, makes me wonder if those in Forest Green were theirs. As i said Richard there is controversy over this,i wouldnt say it was lighter just different.mine was Green(maybe forest) then DBG over that,then NATO.The ones at the musuem are defo not DBG.There are all sorts of stories an old boy from the signals display team assured me only the Display team had gold lines.Doubt we will ever know,probably every bit of evidence that surfaces and proves one thing will disprove another,i have seen a Home office one that wasnt DBG and hadnt been repainted. One way out of it .RAF :-D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 I have both the tank badges and rack but that will need rechroming, missing both petrol taps, kneepads and tank mounts to finish this part off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest catweazle (Banned Member) Posted May 28, 2009 Share Posted May 28, 2009 I have both the tank badges and rack but that will need rechroming, missing both petrol taps, kneepads and tank mounts to finish this part off Be carefull if you buy Knee pads they may not fit very well,i was dissapointed with the ones i bought they dont lay against the tank properly.The rack was knicknamed widow maker as it tended to remove bits of your anatomy in an accident.Not sure thats DBG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 28, 2009 Author Share Posted May 28, 2009 (edited) I've heard the same with the after market twist grip which don't fit properly from a guy called Tim who just sold his TRW on ebay last week. Are there any good suppliers of pattened stock or makes I should look out for as I am on the look out for the following: - Handlebars Grips / levers Rear mudguard Exhaust Knee pads Tyres Good quality set of fixing bolts for engine, mudguards, tank etc If anyone has bought some recently and they are of good quality and the correct fit, I would appreciate it if you would let me know where from Cheers TM Edited May 28, 2009 by Traffic Monkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Can anyone help in finding a supplier for a rear wheel bearing (non sprung hub) for my 1952 TRW The handbook refers to W.7A Taper roller bearing, is there a different reference I can use to source one The only one I can find on the net which I think fits refers to a WD80 Taper roller for rigid, 9/16" ID at £160 :nut:. Thanks very much TM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 (edited) I've heard the same with the after market twist grip which don't fit properly from a guy called Tim who just sold his TRW on ebay last week. Are there any good suppliers of pattened stock or makes I should look out for as I am on the look out for the following: - Handlebars Grips / levers Rear mudguard Exhaust Knee pads Tyres Good quality set of fixing bolts for engine, mudguards, tank etc If anyone has bought some recently and they are of good quality and the correct fit, I would appreciate it if you would let me know where from Cheers TM Your best bet with most of this stuff is going to be Ace Classics, certainly as far as regards the mudguard and stud kits, although the mudguards often need a bit of fettling, so do a trial fit before you paint it. Kneegrips and any other rubber stuff are usually rubbish wherever you go, but try sending an Email to Jeffalanhunter@aol.com , he makes the stuff himself and the quality is from another planet. As regards the exhaust system, try Ace, but the chances are that you'll have to use Armours. I suppose there is a chance that the pipes will fit without any grief, but to save yourself some time and money I'd order the pipes in bare metal, make them fit properly, and then get them chromed. Tyres - Dunlop K70's every time. They even make a Triumph handle halfway decently Yes , the pattern twistgrips don't really fit that well, mainly because the rotor housing is made of weetabix and the grubscrew thread strips. All you've got to do to make it fit properly however is to mark the grubscrew position with a centerpunch though it's hole once you've decided where the twistgrip goes and then drill a countersink in the handlebars - job done. As for the rear wheel bearings, If nobody else can supply a reference, I'll try and dig around to see if I've got any lying about. I seem to remember that they are definitely not cheap though - Try Vintage Bearings, they usually come up trumps. Good luck with the bike, and let us know how the restoration progresses - photos too please! Stef Edited May 30, 2009 by Stefano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 (edited) Stefano Thats great, thanks for your time. Regarding the wheel Tapered roller bearings, I have now found the dimensions which are OD 1.7500 ID 0.5625. I have sent an email to vintage bearings but If anyone knows where to get them from please let me know Cheers TM Edited May 30, 2009 by Traffic Monkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 I'll check when I get in on Monday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 (edited) Thanks Chris. I would really appreciate that. Started on the gearbox today, opened up the front cover and oh my god what a mess, dirt and rust all over the place. shafts bearings seem nice and tight at both ends with no play so thats a good start. The other parts cleaned up well after a couple of hours More questions I'm affraid The kick starter gear (see last photos seems to have a few teeth ground down on one end, is this to lead in or is it worn/damaged and requires replacing. Don't really want to split the whole box as to be honest I don't have the knowledge even with the manuals. I can see though its full of muck, would washing it out with paraffin work or are any of the bearings greased inside or is it just oil lubed. Or do I bite the bullet and end up with a box full of parts Is there anything else I need to check while I'm at it As always your help is much appreciated Edited May 30, 2009 by Traffic Monkey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stefano Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 (edited) TM No way are you going to get away with not splitting the box. They're really not that difficult to do in any case. Change the bearings, which are probably going to be knackered in any case. Check the gear teeth to see if any have gone down under the case hardening The chances are that you'll have to replace the layshaft and mainshaft 4th speed bushes as well. If the mainshaft is badly worn at this point it can be reclaimed by hard chroming and grinding. Don't fit o/s 4th speed bushes because you'll be under the cae hardening of the mainshaft Check that the selector camplate tracks aren't worn Check that the selector forks are a nice snug fit in the sliding gears, otherwise you can get 2nd and 3rd gears jumping out of mesh, and check that the forks are a sliding fit on the spindle (for the same reason) Check the inner k/s and gearlever bushes for wear and replace if necessary. it makes a hell of a difference to gear selection and the kickstart teeth alignment. The first tooth on the k/s quadrant is always chamfered for mesh but you 've probably lost the second. If the teeth are shot replace it, otherwise you can probably live with what you've got. ditto with the ratchet assembly on the mainshaft. Change the springs (camplate plunger - gear selector - k/s ratchet - k/s return). Remember to knock out the speedo drive adaptor and change the O ring, otherwise oil will pour out. (use a straight 50, not gease, otherwise the 'box will die a horrible and spectacular death) Oh yes, if you haven't already done it, get a proper Triumph manual, the haynes one is next to useless. If that sounds daunting, don't be worried, because although the change quality wasn't anything to write home about, they were well designed, and most of the time these 'boxes are in pretty good nick, but just make sure everything's how it should be. Cheers, Stef Edited May 31, 2009 by Stefano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 Stefano Thanks for the info, I will take your advice and check all the points you mentioned when I split the case. No point me doing half a job as it will be me riding it when finished and I don't want to have to take it apart again for not doing it right in the first place Much appreciated TM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Stefano Thats great, thanks for your time. Regarding the wheel Tapered roller bearings, I have now found the dimensions which are OD 1.7500 ID 0.5625. I have sent an email to vintage bearings but If anyone knows where to get them from please let me know Cheers TM Gone and left my bit of paper with numbers at work :-( but I think that the part numbers were 1163X/1120 Which I can get but haven't got a price yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
79x100 Posted June 1, 2009 Share Posted June 1, 2009 Just to reinforce what Stefano has said, I wouldn't even consider not stripping a gearbox on a motorcycle project. There really aren't very many parts in a four speed constant mesh box and a gearbox seizure or catastrophic failure will throw you up the road. If you get stuck, there must be someone not too far away who knows the boxes and can help (VMCC branches are good for that sort of thing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traffic Monkey Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thanks guys, I will check it all out this weekend after splitting the box. I will take a few photos as I go along to jog my memory and also for advice on worn parts etc I have sent a few emails out to wheel bearing suppliers (thanks chris for reference number) and had a useful response back from one company below. "There are all but a few of these remaining, no stock with us, the companies who have them want several hundred pounds each for them as they are like gold dust. A better alternative would be to find the nearest metric and have it modified to suit, you can select tapers by sizes at least this way a replacement would be available in future." Any thoughts on that as a way to get around it Cheers TM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chrisg Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Your existing bearing has the sizes of Bore .562 (9/16) (14.28mm) O/D 1.75 (1 ¾) (44.45mm) Width .812 (13/16) (20.638mm) Cone width .8880 (22.55mm) Cup width .5625 (20.638) The nearest metric equivalent is 30203 Bore 17mm O/D 40mm Width 13.25mm Cone width 12mm Cup width 11 mm Therefore you would need to sleeve both the bore, housing and have a spacer to allow for the difference in depth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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