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About Stefano

  • Birthday 11/22/1965

Personal Information

  • Location
    Parma, Italy
  • Interests
    Anything that's propelled by an engine ...
  • Occupation
    Motorcycle and (occasionally) classic car restorer

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  1. From what I can remember I think the triumph tank badge screws are 5BA
  2. I don't get CMV but if it's ex Irish then I suppose that it's Mike Peacock's 18 pdr FAT. No, mine is the semi-mortal remains of an L.A.D.
  3. It's really quite simple why it's difficult to locate James ML hubs (courtesy of the British Hub Company?)- they were totally, unremittingly crap. They had criminally undersized bearings (especially at the front) with little or no dust and mud exclusion, and pathetically weak spindles - there really is nothing to like about them. The brake plates weren't up to much either, the rear having a particular propensity to buckle. I dare say that they were all very well and good with meticulous maintenence but that is exactly what these bikes rarely got.
  4. Try http://www.autovac.co.uk I bought one for the CD/SW from them
  5. Aren't you going to be running the Quad on an Autovac?
  6. The trouble with Samur is that alot of the tanks there are still on the active list, so every now and then something gets cut up to conform to some treaty or other - not that long ago a Grant ARV finished up that way, absolutely unbelievable if you think about it
  7. Where I live in Italy, nearly all the lorries working quarries have had their ABS disabled. From what drivers have told me with ABS the lorries simply don't stop...
  8. Ron, Ah, I should have looked better at your photos before I spoke. If you had any significant wear between the mainshaft and clutch backplate I would have thought that it would show in the chain run between clutch and engine sprocket, or if the chaincase was out of alignment for any reason you could again check it against the chain run. In any case, if outer clearance is a problem, wouldn't it be possible to shim the cover out a bit to give a little more room?
  9. Ron, If you want to gain a little extra room you could use the manx type clutch spring adjuster setup. From memory (it's been a while) they are have a recessed square drive (like an allen key) so you get a little more clearance. God knows why they bothered with all that on the Manx, seeing there's room to spare, but there you go. Maybe it was to stop the clutch studs from chewing up the riders ankle if it somehow managed to get past the brake pedal guard......
  10. I've got a brand new one of those hanging around somewhere, mine is Italian manufactured, one of the miriad of aftermarket parts that were made out here after the war
  11. The reason a Triumph gearbox will jump out of gear could be due to one of any number of faults, or more usually to a combination of more than one Fitting a new camplate plunger and spring will certainly help but is rarely the real reason the gear won't stay in. If you eventually strip the box inspect every single item of the selector mechanism becuse it can all wear, and wear means that the movement of the gear lever isn't being translated into a corresponding amout of travel at the selector forks. The camplate on the 3HW 'box is made out of some sort of monkey metal and the inner tracks can open out quite dramatically, it can also strip away from it's shaft, which is steel, and the mating teeth with the quadrant can wear. If any of these conditions are present replace the camplate. Also check for excessive wear between the camplate shaft and the steel bush in the casing. The selector rod can wear which in turn makes the selectors twist on operation - the same one was used on all pre unit 'boxes so it's an easy fix. The selector fork ends can twist (due to wear in the preceeding components) or just plain wear out, as can the pins for the camplate rollers and the rollers themselves. They can be reclaimed, but it's not an easy job. Unfortunately the gearbox was redesigned for 1950 and the selectors are not interchangeable so new ones are a bit thin on the ground. At this point all you're left with are the gears themselves which are usually indestructable when used on the 350. A quick look will tell you if something is amiss. As an aside, another weak point on these 'boxes is wear on the floating bushes between the layshaft and the layshaft high gear. This can sorted by hard chroming the layshaft slightly oversize and reaming the bushes to suit - funnily enough, there's rarely any wear between the bushes and the layshaft high gear, which is a plus. Hope this helps, Stef
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